[furnitureguy]

The product that I would favor is Osmo. It's an oil/wax finish from Germany. There are several versions and if you google it you will find a food safe version. If you want to avoid splitting/cracking, you MUST finish all sides and edges as MsNomer has stressed.

 

[kramertech]

The product that I would favor is Osmo. It's an oil/wax finish from Germany. There are several versions and if you google it you will find a food safe version. If you want to avoid splitting/cracking, you MUST finish all sides and edges as MsNomer has stressed.

Sounds promising. Where do you order it from?

 

[justsomekid]

Sounds promising. Where do you order it from?

Thanks @furnitureguy !!

I think this is the product, right: TopOil High Solid - OSMO USA

Seems like you could get it here if you don't mind funding billionaire space rockets:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=osmo+top+oil+3056

 

[justsomekid]

The product that I would favor is Osmo. It's an oil/wax finish from Germany. There are several versions and if you google it you will find a food safe version. If you want to avoid splitting/cracking, you MUST finish all sides and edges as MsNomer has stressed.

Also, how often should this be applied? how long would a few coats last (ballpark)??

 

[aaronmcd]

I've always used oil on Butcherblock -- mineral oil, even olive oil, since i'm cooking/prepping food on it. The raw finish is why most people go with butcher block. Cover it with a thick coat of oil, let it soak in then wipe off. But If depends on what kind of wood your butcher block is made of. I have acacia from home depot and it's not like regular butcher block. I treated it with the this oil wax. It's a beautiful finish without hiding the wood behind polyurethane,
Interbuild 8.5 fl. oz. Espresso Hardwax Wood Oil Stain 471-3651D-025V - The Home Depot

I did the same - I have 1.25" teak from Home Depot, and it came with one coat of the Interbuild hardwax oil so I bought a can and added a coat, and a few coats to the edges. Counter has been in daily use in the van for 15 months and still looks 99% as good as new.

 

[aaronmcd]

As for separating, I think the main thing to be careful of is that the countertop is not restrained from expanding/contracting across the grain. Ensure that the front screws are through slotted or oversized holes and not crazy tight. Of course you also want to be sure you don't have one side drying or absorbing much faster than the other side to prevent cupping which theoretically could separate the wood if it's really bad. But I would guess the screws holding it down will help as well.

I do have a very cheap edge glued pine as a door to the electrical cabinet, finished one side only, and it did cup a bit the first trip or two, before straightening out again on it's own. It's been fine ever since.

 

[furnitureguy]

Also, how often should this be applied? how long would a few coats last (ballpark)??

I'd do 2 or 3 applications 2-3 days apart. When you wipe it off after each application, be sure to wipe it dry. There is a lot of info on the Osmo site and YouTube as well. How long it lasts would depend on how it (the counter) is used. Yearly maybe unless wear is evident.

 

[Skibuoy]

Food grade mineral oil. Hit it heavy at first, then let it tail off. Just keep an eye on it, if it looks dry, add some oil. Everything else requires more maintenance.

 

[Locosan]

The best and never shows water stains is "The Good Stuff" - check it out, it has been 5 years since using it on a pine table I built (100 yr old pine) and it has needed nothing else. Did not buy it as a friend let me use some of his (he was a shop teacher)....I am sold!

 

[Sharon MH]

I orginally went with an oil/wax. Disappeared quickly and someone spilled a drink. It was a mess to clean up. I ended up using Waterlox sealer and finish. Very waterproof and food safe. It looks incredible. Lots of work though.