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2021 Silver ProMaster 159
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I'm sure Dennis will have some good advice, we used a regular 5 gallon plastic bucket with the front upper edge cut away to clear the urine diverter. I line it with a Costco Kitchen plastic bag. We just sprinkle some sawdust over each deposit. When its ready to dump, just pick up the liner bag by the built in ties, pull the ties tight, and dump it in a dumpster. Its light as a feather because the urine has been diverted and the poo has dried out. Ours lasts nearly 3 weeks, but we use public toilets for the poo function most of the time.
The urine container does not really smell that much because the little vent fan is continually pulling air down into the toilet and venting it outside. But, we have a spray bottle of urine digester next to the toilet and spray the urine diverter with it.
This is ours...

Gary
Gary's response is right on. These containers are hard to find. Usually the solids container is too large and the urine is too small. One of the unique advantages of the Kildwick system is they found the right size containers. In a camper build every inch matters.
 

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Are you bagging each "deposit"? Adding Coconut stuff?
Doesn't the liquids container start to stink really quickly, if not capped between uses?
I have been using a Nature’s Head toilet for 4 years full time, but will be building a smaller DIY separating toilet for the van with a “Strumpet and Trollop” diverter from the U.K.

I don’t think the proper containers are difficult to find. I’ll be using a flat back horse feed bucket from tractor supply, they come in a variety of sizes.
I agree with Gary, no need to bag each composit, just cover every deposit with coco coir or sawdust as Gary does. Some people don’t even use a little fan to vent the solids container, but I’m not sure if I want to try that, it’s so easy to wire.
As for the pee bottle, I never had it smell offensively, as long as you dump it every couple of days. I also spritz (aka rinse) the diverter after each use with a mixture of water, a drop of dish soap and a healthy dose of any essential oil of your choice (Lavender, citrus, etc., inexpensive on Amazon). I can’t stand the strong smell of vinegar many use. I had never had my bottle smell badly inside the van or when dumping it.
 

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2021 Silver ProMaster 159
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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
Thanks for that information. With my current vault, I cannot go higher, but I can connect the regulator at the same level by directly connecting to the tank.
Here is an updated photo of the interior parts of the propane vault. It's always a little tight inside the vault, but I think this combination should work well. The WC gauge will let us know if the regulator is working. The two shut off valves are easy to access. At the bottom of the tank is this tank gauge that works with a bluetooth app. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5RQJHS?
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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Here is an updated photo of the interior parts of the propane vault. It's always a little tight inside the vault, but I think this combination should work well. The WC gauge will let us know if the regulator is working. The two shut off valves are easy to access. At the bottom of the tank is this tank gauge that works with bluetooth app. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5RQJHS?
Did you use a sealant on the fittings?
 

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2021 Silver ProMaster 159
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I tried insulating the wheel well with Thinsulite, but it didn't work for this situation. Instead, I used Gaps n Cracks spray foam. I think this will help, since I'm going to install the "over the wheel well" water tank here.
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
After installing the ceiling panels, it was time to work on the walls. I need to extend the window casing to match the depth of the paneling. I'll then use a hand router to finish cut the window opening to match the paneling.
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I have been using a Nature’s Head toilet for 4 years full time, but will be building a smaller DIY separating toilet for the van with a “Strumpet and Trollop” diverter from the U.K.

I don’t think the proper containers are difficult to find. I’ll be using a flat back horse feed bucket from tractor supply, they come in a variety of sizes.
I agree with Gary, no need to bag each composit, just cover every deposit with coco coir or sawdust as Gary does. Some people don’t even use a little fan to vent the solids container, but I’m not sure if I want to try that, it’s so easy to wire.
As for the pee bottle, I never had it smell offensively, as long as you dump it every couple of days. I also spritz (aka rinse) the diverter after each use with a mixture of water, a drop of dish soap and a healthy dose of any essential oil of your choice (Lavender, citrus, etc., inexpensive on Amazon). I can’t stand the strong smell of vinegar many use. I had never had my bottle smell badly inside the van or when dumping it.
I also used a horse bucket from Tractor Supply. Spent a while trying to find one. The only problem is it's so wide that many bags have to stretch quite a bit to fit. The Kildwick bucket looks perfect. I actually got 2 of the Kildwick urine containers. They were the only ones I found with a large volume, short enough, and shallow enough (front to back). It's great having the spare for those times when we don't get a chance to empty for a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
Here is a few more photos of the progress on the walls. I'm "dry fitting" all the panels. This gives me one more chance to finalize how they fit and route any extra wires. I will finish the panels with 1/8 inch foam and marathon fabric. The section to the left of the center post is deep enough to make it ideal for the "control panel". I think I'll have 9 items mounted on this board: 2 light switches, Victron Battery Monitor, Inverter Remote Control, 120 volt outlet, Heater Thermostat, 3 USB plugs.
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I don't know what your plans are for covering/hiding the metal between the panels but this is an easy cover up. 4 way stretch material.

View attachment 84146
Thank you for the tip. I have a roll of this material, but I've had varying success with the glue. What glue did you use? If you ever need to access the wires, is hard to remove?
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Thank you for the tip. I have a roll of this material, but I've had varying success with the glue. What glue did you use? If you ever need to access the wires, is hard to remove?
I used different spray adhesives. I also put a layer of packing foam underneath. I applied the adhesive to the material, pressed it onto the surface, let it pull away a bit then worked it into place, more adhesive can be applied during the process if needed. Loctite MR5416 and Mr5426, both worked so far. I don't let the adhesive dry before working the material. I don't want it to stick instantly like typical contact adhesive because I need to work it.

I didn't run much in the walls because I didn't want to have to take things apart after. I can hide every thing in my cabinets.
I can peel off the foam layer if I am careful, sometimes it tears a bit but if I add a little more adhesive it sticks again. I used multiple layers of alum duct tape to cove up holes, again, so far so good.

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Thank you for the tip. I have a roll of this material, but I've had varying success with the glue. What glue did you use? If you ever need to access the wires, is hard to remove?
I used expanding foam to change the profile of the pillar so I could get a better fit to my panels. You can remove the panel, apply great stuff foam to the area circled below and then trim it so it fits to the cut out in your panel and then apply the fabric. I don't have a pic but I used that method in two vans now and I like it.
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I used expanding foam to change the profile of the pillar so I could get a better fit to my panels. You can remove the panel, apply great stuff foam to the area circled below and then trim it so it fits to the cut out in your panel and then apply the fabric. I don't have a pic but I used that method in two vans now and I like it.
View attachment 84147
I might try your technique on the opposite wall, but I will be installing an upper cabinet over this section, so that helps cover this odd shape.
 

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I might try your technique on the opposite wall, but I will be installing an upper cabinet over this section, so that helps cover this odd shape.
I used @83Grumman “trunk liner & foam sheet” methods on my new build & I like it. It also provides a little bit of insulation value for the thermal bridge.

I purchased “sill gasket” material - comes in 3.5” 5.5” & 7.5” widths

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I used @83Grumman “trunk liner & foam sheet” methods on my new build & I like it. It also provides a little bit of insulation value for the thermal bridge.

I purchased “sill gasket” material - comes in 3.5” 5.5” & 7.5” widths

View attachment 84174
I think the two layer approach makes a lot of sense. The glue will attach to each layer more effectively. I have some rolls of 1/8 inch foam I will use on the 1/4 panels. I think I'll try that under the 4 way material and see how it goes.
 

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I think the two layer approach makes a lot of sense. The glue will attach to each layer more effectively. I have some rolls of 1/8 inch foam I will use on the 1/4 panels. I think I'll try that under the 4 way material and see how it goes.
Here is a photo of my “C” pillar ,,, the PM rubber trim is designed to take a material like “trunk liner” into its factory “groove” ,,, It is very easy

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