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Discussion Starter · #282 ·
PDF is much better, thank you. I quit the video on the second panel.

I'm surprised you require 18 months to build out a van.
My business model is to purchase a van and build it out over a year spending about 7 hours a week on it. This allows me enjoy the building process and to wait out all the supply chain issues. I then spend the next six months to a year using the van on a number of trips and test out the design. I plan to sell in April or May. I have about 5 more years before I retire from my main job.
 

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My business model is to purchase a van and build it out over a year spending about 7 hours a week on it. This allows me enjoy the building process and to wait out all the supply chain issues. I then spend the next six months to a year using the van on a number of trips and test out the design. I plan to sell in April or May. I have about 5 more years before I retire from my main job.
Hi @Dennis CampMaker

Do you have a preference on Manufacture of the Van?

If I build #3 van, I might consider modular fitments / cabinets & “L” track so it could be stripped out fairly quickly to be used for cargo van purposes. Learning the Promaster interior space & vehicle in general on the 1st van build gave me an understanding that was a huge advantage on the 2nd Promaster. Knowing this critical information, an experienced builder familiar with the Promaster structure could “prefabricate” modular fitments / cabinets rather than “field build & fit” it all. That would also depend upon the complexity of the build, & as you know the simpler the easier & especially for pre-build modular designs. Disconnects for things like plumbing & electrical would need to be designed into the wiring harness etc, but your all in one plumbing cabinet is a good examples of “modular”.

Obviously not a project for a newbie, but someone with experience on Promasters could pre-build modular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Hi @Dennis CampMaker

Do you have a preference on Manufacture of the Van?

If I build #3 van, I might consider modular fitments / cabinets & “L” track so it could be stripped out fairly quickly to be used for cargo van purposes. Learning the Promaster interior space & vehicle in general on the 1st van build gave me an understanding that was a huge advantage on the 2nd Promaster. Knowing this critical information, an experienced builder familiar with the Promaster structure could “prefabricate” modular fitments / cabinets rather than “field build & fit” it all. That would also depend upon the complexity of the build, & as you know the simpler the easier & especially for pre-build modular designs. Disconnects for things like plumbing & electrical would need to be designed into the wiring harness etc, but your all in one plumbing cabinet is a good examples of “modular”.

Obviously not a project for a newbie, but someone with experience on Promasters could pre-build modular.
I've pondered a switch to Transit or Sprinter, but I still feel the ProMaster is the best platform for me to build on. Like you said it has a number of advantages with the wider body and more square walls.

On my current project the 3 person bench seat can be easily removed and it gives a large area to haul things. On one of our extended camping trips we decided to not bring the seat and it felt huge to have all that open space.

With a few design changes, the toilet and propane vault could be made to be easily removed. The Kitchen cabinet has a lot more weight and components, but it could be taken out with about 2 hours of work.
 

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Hi,
Have to say I'm puzzled by the desire to be able to remove all the camping furniture in the van to free up the space for carrying stuff.

Ours has the N/S bunks with an aisle up the middle.
Without taking anything out of the van, I can probably carry 40 sheets of plywood in the aisle space and easily loaded via the back doors.
Or, lots of long lumber loaded all the way up the aisle and into the cab area and sticking out the back door if need be.
And, just by taking the mattresses off the bed pedestals, lots of bulky stuff stacked on top of the bed platforms all the way up to the ceiling.
More than you can get in a typical pickup truck with their short beds.

What are people carrying that needs more space than that?

Gary
 

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I used to be able to do this, now I'm limited to a pallet's width, I think I can get two pallets with minimal effort.
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Hi,
Have to say I'm puzzled by the desire to be able to remove all the camping furniture in the van to free up the space for carrying stuff.

Ours has the N/S bunks with an aisle up the middle.
Without taking anything out of the van, I can probably carry 40 sheets of plywood in the aisle space and easily loaded via the back doors.
Or, lots of long lumber loaded all the way up the aisle and into the cab area and sticking out the back door if need be.
And, just by taking the mattresses off the bed pedestals, lots of bulky stuff stacked on top of the bed platforms all the way up to the ceiling.
More than you can get in a typical pickup truck with their short beds.

What are people carrying that needs more space than that?

Gary
Depends on the floor plan ,,, Your design (north / south split beds) is a wonderful layout for such easy “convertible” uses such as you described.

We have a different floor plan that suits our needs, but is not good for easy alteration to pack 40 sheets of plywood or a bunch of lumber. I have packed 15’ long aluminum angle with the rear doors closed 😁.

Coincidentally 2 hours ago, I suggested your floor plan style for ceiling height issues & an alternate method of building here in Post #8 here;

 

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Now that you've spent time watching it this isn't as helpful, but here is the PDF version.
Hi Dennis,
I like the pdf a lot - lots of good solid advice for people just trying to work out how they are going to do their van conversion.

The only things that came to my mind to possibly add are more detail on your dry toilet design, and maybe something on freeze protection for the water system.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
Hi Dennis,
I like the pdf a lot - lots of good solid advice for people just trying to work out how they are going to do their van conversion. The only things that came to my mind to possibly add are more detail on your dry toilet design, and maybe something on freeze protection for the water system.
Gary
Thanks Gary - those would be good to add. Since I had done videos on the toilet, propane and kitchen, those areas seemed less important, but it makes sense to include them in this "summary" document.
Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·

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Discussion Starter · #293 · (Edited)
The ProMaster suspension is made to haul about 4,000 lbs., but it's still important to be aware of balancing out your van conversion and the gear you carry. RAM recommends keeping the weight no more than 200 lbs difference from side to side. It's also very helpful to keep the front wheels with more than 50% of the weight for traction. I think if a van builder is concerned about weight, it’s very possible to keep your van under 7500 lbs. but if you don’t think about it, it’s common to be at the 9000 gross vehicle maximum weight. When not busy with truckers, weigh stations are very helpful to know what your weight and balance is. Here is a report I made from a recent weight station visit.
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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
I wasn't sure if this plastic tray would be worth it or not, but I decided to give it a try. I'm pleased so far. It works well if you don't put more than 3 lbs. on it. The deciding factor was when we learned we can set chips or crackers on the tray to eat while driving! ;-)
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I wasn't sure if this plastic tray would be worth it or not, but I decided to give it a try. I'm pleased so far. It works well if you don't put more than 3 lbs. on it. The deciding factor was when we learned we can set chips or crackers on the tray to eat while driving! ;-) View attachment 94395
Thanks for posting the table , I like it's removable and probably store behind the seats , $29 not bad .
 
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