LEDs? That sounds complicated! I was thinking of putting the two switches in the aisle side of the driver seat base trim...It's really convenient to have an LED on the D+ and LC that you can see from the driver's seat so you know at a glance what's happening back there.
I guess it depends on where you are when you want to "hit the switch."I've been thinking of your placement of switches for the B2B on the seat pedestal, and confessed I chuckled. I'd have to position my body near horizontal for my finger to reach that low. 😂
This is one of the reasons why I try to convince people to use a breaker for each battery string.Thanks to all who jumped in to make suggestions on my transition from AGM to LiFePo batteries! All replies are appreciated...
Note: for anyone doing this type of install. The last connection to the inverter can make a very big SPARK! There are some good YouTube videos on how to pre-charge the capacitors in the inverter before that final connection... I found 'em after the first spark event!
If the last connection in a power system is done via a wire to or through a fuse, then the person putting it together (or maintaining it later) will always be subject to a large spark event.I don't understand. What's the connection between sparks and multiple breakers?
I must have gotten lucky all the times I've re-connected my inverter-charger. Since the beginning, I've always isolated my battery bank with my battery cut-off switch before messing with high-current wiring. I've never seen sparks and I haven't tripped a BMS that I know of. However, I have a 4-position rotary cut-off switch with my two 206Ah lithiums connected to the #1 and #2 positions. They are isolated from one another in all but the 1+2 position. So maybe I reset the BMS without knowing it.If the last connection in a power system is done via a wire to or through a fuse, then the person putting it together (or maintaining it later) will always be subject to a large spark event.
There are substantial capacitors in chargers and inverters, and the charge up of these causes a large current to flow - spark.
For AGM batteries, this isn't that big of a deal on them, but especially for a LiFe battery, it can trip the internal BMS of some or all of the batteries.
In order to re-set the BMS, many of them use a "reset" function that works by removing power / voltage from each individual battery. This means that each battery either has to be individually disconnected with it's own breaker, or you have the joy of disconnecting each one - wire by wire and hope that the spark doesn't re-trip the BMS.
If you do all of this via a breaker for each parallel battery string, then there isn't any external spark - it is managed by the breaker.
The one method to reduce this effect is to add in a pre-charge circuit, which more or less is a side circuit with a resistor in line to slow down the charge up of the caps.
Another way is to use a solar charge controller that will pre-charge the bus bar and inverter caps without needing to be hooked up to a battery. Some do, some don't.