I'm guessing if an item is on sale discount codes are removed, i should have read all of proeddie's words
Bought some Renogy items for the change to Lithium - Installation Almost Done!
61 - 80 of 102 Posts
My take on the discount deals...
If you sign up as new, you get 5% off, even on sale items like the batteries currently at $499
If you search the 'Net for Renogy discount codes, you may find a 7% off, even on sale items like the batteries currently at $499 at the Renogy site.
Other than the batteries, I found that for the electronic components, Amazon (with Prime) purchased through the Renogy Store, had better prices than the Renogy website sale or coupon prices.
And when you overbuy or mis-buy, Amazon will take the stuff back with no cost for returns... Amazon prices seem to track with Renogy sale prices... if it's on sale on the Renogy site, the price goes down more on Amazon too...at least that's the way it worked for their Memorial Day sale.
--------------------------
While waiting for "stuff" I'm working on an auto-transfer switch so when the inverter is switched on, some outlets in the van (microwave, kitchen counter, outlet by the slider door) will auto-switch to inverter power. When the inverter is off, the same outlets will be on shore power....
If you sign up as new, you get 5% off, even on sale items like the batteries currently at $499
If you search the 'Net for Renogy discount codes, you may find a 7% off, even on sale items like the batteries currently at $499 at the Renogy site.
Other than the batteries, I found that for the electronic components, Amazon (with Prime) purchased through the Renogy Store, had better prices than the Renogy website sale or coupon prices.
And when you overbuy or mis-buy, Amazon will take the stuff back with no cost for returns... Amazon prices seem to track with Renogy sale prices... if it's on sale on the Renogy site, the price goes down more on Amazon too...at least that's the way it worked for their Memorial Day sale.
--------------------------
While waiting for "stuff" I'm working on an auto-transfer switch so when the inverter is switched on, some outlets in the van (microwave, kitchen counter, outlet by the slider door) will auto-switch to inverter power. When the inverter is off, the same outlets will be on shore power....
MrNomer wired all our outlets except the one that powers the fridge, freezer and charger to run off shore or inverter. A very convenient feature.
What does this accomplish? What's the convenience? Is there some advantage to a normal transfer switch?
I'm looking at about $25 in parts... RV transfer switch is more like $100/$150+
In my design, I decided on separate inverter and shore power charger, so that's not included like it is in the charger/inverter combination unit.
Autoswitch just means that I won't manually switch anything. When the remote on/off switch to the inverter is turned on, the specified outlets will auto-transfer to Inverter power... nothing spectacular, just convenient... and when we're in a CG on shore power, the outlets will work as normal.
In my design, I decided on separate inverter and shore power charger, so that's not included like it is in the charger/inverter combination unit.
Autoswitch just means that I won't manually switch anything. When the remote on/off switch to the inverter is turned on, the specified outlets will auto-transfer to Inverter power... nothing spectacular, just convenient... and when we're in a CG on shore power, the outlets will work as normal.
How do the outets know when they are on shore power and when they are on inverter?
MrN says it's the poor man's way of making a DPST? switch with two SPST switches. All I understand is that there are two toggles side by side that are flipped together. One way shore power works, the other way inverter power works. However, in addition, we turn the inverter itself on and off each time it is used because of its parasitic draw.
Joined
·
1,542 Posts
This is also how I do it. It adds a layer of safety and reliability.
Actually, it sounds like he's using (2) 3 way switches to make a DPDT switch...
I'm thinking of a relay to do the same thing, but activated when the inverter is turned on.
The parts are ordered, some delivered, and the old AGM system is removed !
Parts List: (renogy products)
B2B 40A
2000W PSW Inverter w/remote
(3) 100Ah Bluetooth Batteries
Battery Monitor & shunt
some ANL fuses, some wires, etc.
1/4"x 1" Aluminum strips (soon to be busbars)
I think I can get it all in less space under the couch than the old 2 battery AGM system
Stay tuned...
Parts List: (renogy products)
B2B 40A
2000W PSW Inverter w/remote
(3) 100Ah Bluetooth Batteries
Battery Monitor & shunt
some ANL fuses, some wires, etc.
1/4"x 1" Aluminum strips (soon to be busbars)
I think I can get it all in less space under the couch than the old 2 battery AGM system
Stay tuned...
Hi,
One thing to be careful about in switching outlets from inverter to shore power automatically is that the point where the AC neutral wire is bonded to ground has to be switched at the same time. When on shore power, the neutral is bonded to the ground back in the campground electrical system. When on inverter power, the AC neutral is bonded to ground at the inverter inside the van.
Commercial transfer switches and inverter/chargers do the neutral bonding automatically.
Gary
One thing to be careful about in switching outlets from inverter to shore power automatically is that the point where the AC neutral wire is bonded to ground has to be switched at the same time. When on shore power, the neutral is bonded to the ground back in the campground electrical system. When on inverter power, the AC neutral is bonded to ground at the inverter inside the van.
Commercial transfer switches and inverter/chargers do the neutral bonding automatically.
Gary
Gary,
I appreciate your thoughts on this...I was going to get a commercial transfer (relay based) switch.
Most are wired with AC plugs and outlets going to a DPDT relay, so you plug one plug into a shore power outlet, another into an inverter, and the outlet side provides power. It looks like the pictures and instructions show the green wires all tied together and the black and white are (relay) switched.
My plan was to replicate that (with a $26 relay) in a box and some cords.
According to the Renogy 2000W Inverter manual, "NEUTRAL and GROUND are bonded inside the inverter to comply with the National Electric Code (NEC) requirement that any AC source must have a neutral to ground connection. "
So my take is that I can safely switch just white & black, and tie all the green wires together.... am I making sense to you?
I appreciate your thoughts on this...I was going to get a commercial transfer (relay based) switch.
Most are wired with AC plugs and outlets going to a DPDT relay, so you plug one plug into a shore power outlet, another into an inverter, and the outlet side provides power. It looks like the pictures and instructions show the green wires all tied together and the black and white are (relay) switched.
My plan was to replicate that (with a $26 relay) in a box and some cords.
According to the Renogy 2000W Inverter manual, "NEUTRAL and GROUND are bonded inside the inverter to comply with the National Electric Code (NEC) requirement that any AC source must have a neutral to ground connection. "
So my take is that I can safely switch just white & black, and tie all the green wires together.... am I making sense to you?
It will be interesting... I'm trying to pack 16 oz of sardines in an 8 oz can ! Tape measure says it'll work....
Hi,
As far as I can tell, that should be OK.
I did a little diagram of your setup, and as far as I can see when your switch is in the shore power position, the neutral is only bonded to the ground back in the campground, and when the switch is in the inverter position, the neutral is only bonded to the ground at the internal bonding point in your inverter. Seems OK.
If any of the electrical gurus don't agree with this, please speak up.
Inverter/charges have an internal relay to switch the bonding point, but I guess that is because an inverter/charger is connected to shore AC even when outlets are running on inverter.
Gary
Hi Eddie,
As far as I can tell, that should be OK.
I did a little diagram of your setup, and as far as I can see when your switch is in the shore power position, the neutral is only bonded to the ground back in the campground, and when the switch is in the inverter position, the neutral is only bonded to the ground at the internal bonding point in your inverter. Seems OK.
If any of the electrical gurus don't agree with this, please speak up.
Inverter/charges have an internal relay to switch the bonding point, but I guess that is because an inverter/charger is connected to shore AC even when outlets are running on inverter.
Gary
Hi,
Not sure if you are still looking for a shore power charger, but I have some experience with this Victron charger:
Its not cheap, but seems high quality, behaves exactly as the specs say, never gets hot, has no fan, built solid, charging profiles for all the battery types - and its blue!
If you have one of the Victron battery monitors, the same bluetooth connection works, so you can watch it on your phone.
Actually I think you need the bluetooth to set the battery type - so, probably not a good way to go if you don't like bluetooth.
Anyway, I'm not very often impressed with product quality, and this one seems really solid.
Hope you post a final report once you get all this stuff working!
Gary
Not sure if you are still looking for a shore power charger, but I have some experience with this Victron charger:
Amazon.com: Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12-Volt 17 amp Battery Charger (Bluetooth) 120V : Automotive
Buy Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12-Volt 17 amp Battery Charger (Bluetooth) 120V: Battery Chargers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Its not cheap, but seems high quality, behaves exactly as the specs say, never gets hot, has no fan, built solid, charging profiles for all the battery types - and its blue!
If you have one of the Victron battery monitors, the same bluetooth connection works, so you can watch it on your phone.
Actually I think you need the bluetooth to set the battery type - so, probably not a good way to go if you don't like bluetooth.
Anyway, I'm not very often impressed with product quality, and this one seems really solid.
Hope you post a final report once you get all this stuff working!
Gary
Gary,
A few questions...
I'm used to getting home from a ride and if I'm not going out for a few days I plug in shore power to run the Engel fridge on AC and charge (my old AGMs).
It seems like I won't need to do that very often, because with 300Ah and Lithium it should sit stand-alone a lot longer.
I got the Renogy 20A charger (no labels say Renogy so I think they just buy it and sell it). It is sold specifically for their LiFePo batteries. Seems like it runs very warm. Amazon, so it's returnable...
With the Victron unit, I guess you don't set a lot of parameters, just tell it it is Li and away it goes. Charges to full, and then just sits there. Once I set it for LI, when I plug and unplug shore power, will it remember the mode I set so I don't have to use Bluetooth once it's set up?
If my math is correct and I run my 300Ah down to 20%, then I need to refill 240Ah... 17Ah at a time, that would take 240/17= 14 hours? After that I'll maintain at 100% (which I guess isn't optimum but not too damaging)
My concern with any of these chargers is that I'm used to plug 'n charge, unplug 'n go... repeat. Hoping I can do the same. I'm not big on watching meters all the time, but I'm sure most people with a battery monitor and a new LI setup do it!
I actually DID connect the Renogy 40A B2B unit (set to 50% charge) to a 30A ham radio power supply and it charges nicely. That may be my go-to solution, or the Victron seems like an equally simple and not too expensive way to go (if it's set-it-and-forget-it)
A few questions...
I'm used to getting home from a ride and if I'm not going out for a few days I plug in shore power to run the Engel fridge on AC and charge (my old AGMs).
It seems like I won't need to do that very often, because with 300Ah and Lithium it should sit stand-alone a lot longer.
I got the Renogy 20A charger (no labels say Renogy so I think they just buy it and sell it). It is sold specifically for their LiFePo batteries. Seems like it runs very warm. Amazon, so it's returnable...
With the Victron unit, I guess you don't set a lot of parameters, just tell it it is Li and away it goes. Charges to full, and then just sits there. Once I set it for LI, when I plug and unplug shore power, will it remember the mode I set so I don't have to use Bluetooth once it's set up?
If my math is correct and I run my 300Ah down to 20%, then I need to refill 240Ah... 17Ah at a time, that would take 240/17= 14 hours? After that I'll maintain at 100% (which I guess isn't optimum but not too damaging)
My concern with any of these chargers is that I'm used to plug 'n charge, unplug 'n go... repeat. Hoping I can do the same. I'm not big on watching meters all the time, but I'm sure most people with a battery monitor and a new LI setup do it!
I actually DID connect the Renogy 40A B2B unit (set to 50% charge) to a 30A ham radio power supply and it charges nicely. That may be my go-to solution, or the Victron seems like an equally simple and not too expensive way to go (if it's set-it-and-forget-it)
Hi Eddie,
I did a little test on the Victron charger, and it did remember the Li setting over a couple times cycling the power.
This is the manual: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Blue-Smart-IP67-Charger-120V-EN-FR-ES.pdf
I picked the 17 amp version because I mostly use alternator and solar charging, and the shore power charger is kind of a backup. I figured with my daily use at about 60 AH, that 17 amps would be plenty to bring my 200 AH of SOKs back up over night. I think they make a higher powered version of the same design - the cast alum case with epoxy filled electronics and no fan.
With my new Li batteries, I am going to make a practice of turning off charging on the last day of trips and try to get the SOC down to 50%. My understanding is that letting LiFePo4 batteries sit at high SOC and especially at high temps will significantly decrease thier life.
Here is on ref on it: Marine lithium batteries in operation | Nordkyn Design
See this heading in the article:
Impact of State of Charge and Temperature on Capacity and Cell Life
A lot of us come back from a trip, park the van in the driveway, hook up a maintainer or solar and let it sit there til the next trip at 100% SOC - often with high temps in the van. This was great for FLAs, but I'm convinced its the worst thing you can do for LiFeP04.
What do you think?
Gary
Put an on-off switch on your shore charger. We use it rarely.
We will get home today to ~95-100° temperatures, in which the van must sit for a few days—as few as possible—before we are off again. I turned off the B2B yesterday, but batteries will still be in the 70’s when we get home. I will let the fridge and freezer draw them down further tonight, then plug in probably tomorrow so that fridge and freezer don’t continue to draw them down.
We will get home today to ~95-100° temperatures, in which the van must sit for a few days—as few as possible—before we are off again. I turned off the B2B yesterday, but batteries will still be in the 70’s when we get home. I will let the fridge and freezer draw them down further tonight, then plug in probably tomorrow so that fridge and freezer don’t continue to draw them down.
61 - 80 of 102 Posts
Join the discussion
