[Bconno]

Hi everyone,
Has anyone done their own bonded window install?
There's a lot of info how to do it out there but one thing I'm not finding is info about surface prep. I assume bonding them straight to the paint is not a good idea but finding the prep chemicals is not easy in the US.
I'll be installing the cr Laurence factory type windows.
Appreciate any advice

 

[jostalli]

Hi everyone,
Has anyone done their own bonded window install?
There's a lot of info how to do it out there but one thing I'm not finding is info about surface prep. I assume bonding them straight to the paint is not a good idea but finding the prep chemicals is not easy in the US.
I'll be installing the cr Laurence factory type windows.
Appreciate any advice

The CR Laurence windows are held on by a frame and screws. Not bonded.

 

[Bconno]

I am installing the bonded OEM style windows. t vent style

 

[makevx73]

The CR Laurence windows are held on by a frame and screws. Not bonded.

Don't know about the side ones, haven't had them installed yet, but the rear CR Laurence windows are bonded/glued and have no frame.

 

[proeddie]

For clarification:

CR Laurence SIDEWALL windows are a piece of glass with an aluminum frame bonded to it at the factory. A hole is cut, the metal frame is inserted through the hole, and a clamping ring of metal is screwed into the aluminum window frame to clamp it in place. You see the screws and clamp ring on the inside. There is no glue involved, just a foam edge that seals the window against the body of the van, when the clamping ring is tightened.

Factory windows are glued in place. No frame, the glass is glued to the metal of the van with a spacer that keeps the glass about 1/8" off the metal surface. The sheet metal of the van is formed to create a finished edge on the inside.

If there are no factory windows in the rear doors, I would expect that a hole is cut and the CRL windows are clamped in place like the side windows. Factory windows are glued to the van at the factory.... no clamping ring. I have them.

From the outside, CRL windows look just like factory...but, the tinting on the CRL windows is slightly darker than the factory tint. The factory slider window I have is tinted a bit lighter than the CRL window I had installed across from it.

Ed

 

[KilWerBzz]

CRL Promaster windows and type of install method.
http://www.crlaurence.com/adv/catalog_library/catalogs/crl93g/index.html?pn=AU102
If you want 1970's style window's they still make them look here
http://www.crlaurence.com/adv/catalog_library/catalogs/crl43/index.html

 

[proeddie]

CRL Promaster windows and type of install method.
http://www.crlaurence.com/adv/catalog_library/catalogs/crl93g/index.html?pn=AU102
If you want 1970's style window's they still make them look here
http://www.crlaurence.com/adv/catalog_library/catalogs/crl43/index.html

KWB,

showing up as blank pages for me...

 

[KilWerBzz]

KWB,

showing up as blank pages for me...

It works for me. It just says Fixed/ clamp ring for the install back doors are glued slider DOOR oem replacement glued after market clamp ring. The link I posted I found on the window page " AU102 "

 

[makevx73]

...the rear CR Laurence windows are bonded/glued and have no frame...

For clarification:

I have CR Laurence rear windows - no frame. The rear windows are bonded/glued on.

 

[proeddie]

For clarification:

I have CR Laurence rear windows - no frame. The rear windows are bonded/glued on.

makevx73,

Veeerryy interesting. Not sure why they wouldn't use a clamp ring as an aftermarket install. Especially on a door with it slamming shut all the time!

Didi you install them? Wondering if you have to clean the metal and glue?

Wish they made "hinge at the top" rear windows. My old '72 Dodge Tradesman had them! I'd take my factory ones off and put them on!

SO:

CRL Side Windows = clamping ring no glue/bonding
CRL Back Door windows = glued (or bonded)

Ed

 

[makevx73]

I had mine installed. A bit to "chicken" to cut a hole...

Had it done down your way sort of - Windsor CT.

http://actionglassllc.com

Real profession place a buddy recommended.

I think they intended them as factory replacements so they made them install the same way? Hot-wire off the glass remnants, clean off the remainder of the glue and glue on the replacement.

I second the wish for tilt outs. You get lots of airflow with those.

I plan on putting windows in both sides eventually - the slider and behind driver. CRL for some reason didn't produce them for a 118" WB PM initially. In December was told they were in pre-production so I've been waiting. Have to check with Action Glass and see if they're available yet.

 

[Bconno]

Wow thanks for the info everyone, I had no idea the sides were clamped, it sounds like they don't need any additional frame?

For the rear door bonded, can anyone offer advice on surface prep of the door? Seems I need activator and something to prep the metal? Does the paint need to be removed where the adhesive is?

 

[KilWerBzz]

Wow thanks for the info everyone, I had no idea the sides were clamped, it sounds like they don't need any additional frame?

For the rear door bonded, can anyone offer advice on surface prep of the door? Seems I need activator and something to prep the metal? Does the paint need to be removed where the adhesive is?

Don't remove the paint use seam or pinch weld paint on any bare metal rust is a bonded windows worst enemy. What ever bonding agent you use follow their recommendations I have never done it so your on your own. It's similar to windshield install but you need a way to hold the window in place while the bonding agent sets up or take the doors off.

 

[jostalli]

Wow thanks for the info everyone, I had no idea the sides were clamped, it sounds like they don't need any additional frame?

For the rear door bonded, can anyone offer advice on surface prep of the door? Seems I need activator and something to prep the metal? Does the paint need to be removed where the adhesive is?

Just clean the surface. No other prep needed. Use an auto glass adhesive. I would use this: https://www.trucknvans.com/product/CRLSomaca-One-Hour-Auto-Glass

Spread it around the glass and press into place.

Then use a suction cup lifter on the inside of the van to pull it tight. Here is a cheap one I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-cup-suction-lifter-46134.html

Use a ratcheting tie down to wrap around the suction and connect to something secure in the van. This will hold the window tight while the adhesive sets.

 

[Bconno]

Perfect, thanks again for all the tips everyone

 

[Bconno]

Word of advice to anyone attempting a bonded install. Get a good heavy duty caulking gun, or even better if you can get an electric. It is seriously heavy viscosity stuff and you need to get a nice even bead on there. THE $4 Home Depot gun isnt happening

 

[jostalli]

Word of advice to anyone attempting a bonded install. Get a good heavy duty caulking gun, or even better if you can get an electric. It is seriously heavy viscosity stuff and you need to get a nice even bead on there. THE $4 Home Depot gun isnt happening

Be certain you get a good hole poked before you put it in the gun. Also, a warm tube is better than a cold one. Any gun should be fine.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[Bconno]

Be certain you get a good hole poked before you put it in the gun. Also, a warm tube is better than a cold one. Any gun should be fine.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

Good point, I probably should have warmed the tube first. It was about 67F the day I did it.