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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been a while since I posted anything. I'm looking for advice. I've seen others mention this problem, but no one has come up with any solid answers. My PM is now 3 1/2 years old and has 25,xxx miles. I recently had the driver headlight bulb burn out. Having read all the great things posted about headlight replacement, I knew this would be fun! After changing out the bulb with a Sylvania basic H-7 bulb, it is blinding bright. I've had it apart several times. The bulb appears to be seating square and clipping in tight against the back of the housing. Both driver and passenger height adjusters are bottomed out. I tried a second bulb, thinking maybe it was a defective bulb. I then tried one of the new bulbs in the passenger side trying to learn what I was doing wrong. The passenger side had no problem with the new bulb. I can change a headlight in my Sprinter at work in less than 2 minutes. Honestly, Chrysler should be ashamed of the engineering that went into these headlights.
 

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2014 Ram Promaster 2500 159" diesel
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Could you have plugged the hi-beam harness into the low beam bulb, I don't know if that is possible, but it's a long distance guess. The vertical adjustment moves the internal lens up or down, the bulb and housing don't move. So could you have ice in the housing? Were you in an accident? You could shim the upper housing bolts to force the light to shine a bit more down, just a suggestion if all else fails. Chryslers fix for early bulb failure is to replace with long life bulbs that's in a TSB.
 

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The bulb appears to be seating square and clipping in tight against the back of the housing.
If it is a standard H7, and not an HID or LED replacement, then the only way it can be off by that much in one housing and not the other is that it is not seated correctly, despite appearing to be. Make sure the bulb seating surface on the back of the reflector doesn't have any dirt or broken plastic on it. Also make sure that the pivot point where the spring clip pivots isn't broken or bent. These are surprisingly delicate on most vehicles .

Also, to determine if it is the bulb or the housing, try to passenger bulb in the driver side housing.
 

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Mine looks the same way. Drivers side appears way brighter.
When I shine on a building up close, the drivers side doesnt seem to have the 'cut off' as the passenger side.
The bulb socket is a bee otch for me to seat. The first time I did it, it was super bright and eventually popped out of the housing. The hold down is very confusing to me. The slots in the socket only hook at the very bottom, and I dont know should the clip be up or down.
Very difficult. I expect it to pop out again soon and flounder around half in the hole housing.
 

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Can someone not having this problem please do a reference point for the rest of us. To do this you park the van at ten feet from the bumper to a wall and measure the height from the ground to the center of the beam, you do this on a level surface. Because of the tilt of the different models we could get a approximate range of where the beam should be. The old way of putting a tool on the bulb doesn't work with today's headlights. So how do you aim your headlights?
 

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i found that putting the bulb in then attaching the wires allows me to have the bulb seated properly. if i try to put wires on bulb then put it in housing i end up with problem you are having.
is it tough to unhook the wires to that bulb socket? i can barely get my fingers in that hole and not my whole hand. And trying to find a connection clip. yeah.
any advice on your maneuver?
 

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From reading the FCA headlight alignment procedures, apologies in advance if I remembered wrong...

Pattern screen distance: 25-feet.

There is an round 'optical center mark' on the headlight lens plastic whose height from floor is transferred to the 25-foot screen.

By my understanding of the very vague procedure the modern computer designed reflector should throw a clear horizontal cut-off line, bright below and dark above; at 25-feet the dark cut-off should be on that optical center mark height measure that is twenty-five feet from the lenses. Cardboard blocks one or other headlight as necessary while doing that.

Quote: "Horizontal adjustment, adjust as needed". Hight tech that, as needed! Common practice IIRC the left should only show lane marker lines and not intrude on oncoming lane too much, right lamp does illuminate shoulder 'some'.

Fog Lamps: Project 100 millimeters (4 inches) below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of the lamp at a distance of 10 meters.
 

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my wife is quite mechanical, her eyes are better than mine and her hands are smaller too. i take the housing off van and give her the new bulb. in moments walla, she finished and i am ready to reinstall housing. i had done it a few times myself, but she is the one that discovered what was wrong (bulb not seating properly and that little tab not in place) causing that high beam look.
 

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>:DThere must be lots of good reasons to have a wife, I'll add this to my list making the total now two.>:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Viola! I had a chance to take it back apart and analyze things for the third time this evening. I have it figured out now. When you install the new bulb against the housing it appears to seat tightly. However, when the wiring is pressed onto the back of the bulb and latched, it pulls the bulb away from the housing slightly. (The only way i could see this was by observing the bulb through the other access port for the high beam.) So in order to get it to seat properly, I used the following technique.
1. Set the bulb loosely into the housing. (The tab on the backer plate of the bulb should point toward the torx screw that attaches the bulb shield.)
2. Press the wiring terminal onto the back of the bulb and clip the latch. (At this point it is possible that the bulb may have pulled away from the housing slightly.)
3. Then, insert your finger tips between the bulb flange and the wire harness clip, trying to spread them apart slightly. This will create a bit of pressure causing the bulb to re-seat tightly against the back of the housing.
This should ensure that the bulb is seating correctly. If the bulb pulls away from the housing even slightly, it will cause the bright bulb problem that I was experiencing. Hope this helps any of you who are having the same issue.
 

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sucess! this trick worked for me.
Put the bare bulb in first. Without the socket.
Then push the socket onto the buld till it clicks in.
I got rid of the super bright syndrome and the 'cut-off' is back.
Thanks for the good info.
 

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Im replacing bulbs at least once a month. While out driving I always notice promasters with blown headlights. I have 2 sprinters and 2 ford E250. Headlight changes 2 times a year at best. Why is this not a recall issue yet?
 

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But then again, I’m still using my original headline bulbs after 4 years & 101k miles. Go figure;)
 

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I have 120k miles on my 2014 and still have the original headlights. I see ProMasters around here driving with their headlights on during the day! I’m sure they don’t last long if you use them constantly. Mine has the daytime running light option which is a small bulb below the headlight. If you want to use the headlights as daytime running lights be prepared to change them a lot.
 

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Hence the interest to switch to LEDs, supposedly much more durable. The question for me becomes : which ones to choose at an affordable cost, and without their installation becoming a puzzle ?

If at least we could just replace daytime running lights with LEDs, we would simplify the problem data. But then again, which model to choose in all that offers ebay and aliexpress?
 

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3. Then, insert your finger tips between the bulb flange and the wire harness clip, trying to spread them apart slightly. This will create a bit of pressure causing the bulb to re-seat tightly against the back of the housing.

This is what did it for me, thanks.
 

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On my sprinter I was changing a bulb a month on some light somewhere, mostly tail lights but it was 5 headlights in 6 years. I have replace 2 headlights in my PM, then I changed to leds. I can change them in less than 10 min now. The sprinter had clips that always broke and at $5 each I was not happy
 
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