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I did see your other post. What are your thoughts on this method or what you did for satisfying the ecu to turn off the airbag light?
I’m assuming your method requires a blown buckle assy.
 

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Does not require a blown buckle assembly. I just used one of those to take apart and see how the circuit worked.

Try setting your pot to ~460ohm, remove your DVM, and then plug it into the car and turn the key on. Its possible if the ecu sees an illegal value it latches the light on and your 'sweeping' the pot wil have no effect even if you ended up on the right value.
 

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Does not require a blown buckle assembly. I just used one of those to take apart and see how the circuit worked.

Try setting your pot to ~460ohm, remove your DVM, and then plug it into the car and turn the key on. Its possible if the ecu sees an illegal value it latches the light on and your 'sweeping' the pot wil have no effect even if you ended up on the right value.

Just to be sure I'm following, using the center seat connector, wire the pot set @ 460 ohms into the 2 wires for the seat belt connection. I also assume I will need the 2.5 ohm in the other connection. Is that correct? If not can you clarify?
 

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I tried this in the drivers seat and it did turn off the seat belt light @ 460 ohms. I still did have the SRS light on which was expected given the missing middle seat.
When moving this setup to the middle seat connector, the SRS light is remains on.
2.5 ohm on the airbag connection, 460 ohms on the seat belt connection and a functioning occupancy sensor at 400ohms.
Not sure where to go at this point.
 

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Hallelujah! I turned the van on for a bit of heat while I’m working. Happen to glance at the dash and the light are all out.:D
It must have needed more time to scan everything and turn off the light.
 

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I’ll be trying to do the fix this weekend since I’m also doing a swap with the seats. I’m no electronics guy at all and was wondering what your final setup of resistances was?

Same as photo? Did you leave the connectors or removed them and soldered the resistances?
 

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I’ll be trying to do the fix this weekend since I’m also doing a swap with the seats. I’m no electronics guy at all and was wondering what your final setup of resistances was?

Same as photo? Did you leave the connectors or removed them and soldered the resistances?
Position is the same as Scribblersix's pic except I used a 460 ohm where he has a 2200 ohm on the bottom. I left the yellow connector intact and soldered the resistors to pins (see post #7) for the airbag and seat belt resistors.You could just cut off the yellow connector and solder the resistors if you prefer. I cut off the occupancy sensor and soldered the resistor to the wires.

The final setup was 2.5 ohms on the airbag connection, 460 ohms on the seat belt connection and 400 ohms for the occupancy sensor.

My light didn't go off immediately. As noted in my previous post. I figured it was another fail and started the engine for some heat and lo and behold the lights were off after a few minutes.

Not sure on the discrepancy between the 2200 Scribbersix used and 460 Smdub recommended on the seat belt circuit. Regardless, thanks to both of you for your valuable assistance on getting this to work!
 

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I just wanted to confirm that a 500 ohm resistor worked for me in place of the 2200 ohm on my 2020 Promaster built 11/19.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Here is the latest.Using the drivers seat as a test bed to eliminate the occupancy detector from the equation, I installed a 2.5 ohm in the air bag connection and a 5K pot on the seat belt connection. Running through the full range of the potentiometer, the seat belt light remained on. I also ran the test on the missing center seat connection but oddly as soon as I turned on the ignition, the resistance jumped to 8000 ohms with the pot turned all the way down. I got the same results on the passenger bucket connector. Not really sure what to make of that.

Bottom line is this won't work on my van unless I've missed something or screwed up somewhere. It may me the difference in model year. Scribbler's is a 2015. Mine is a 2018.
Did you cycle the ignition at different resistances?

Once the SRS system senses bad state, I would not expect it to resolve (clear the SRS light) if the readings become correct later.


@smdub has the cool toys and did it right tho!

Weird that my resistor is 4-5X more Ohms than his.

Maybe FCA changes up the buckle assembly every year.
Maybe they give every PM SYS system random params to discourage tampering.
Maybe I fried my SRS system, warning light and all.

¯\(ツ)
 

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I did cycle the ignition each time. I think in my case it needed more time than a quick cycle of the ignition. I expected it to resolve within seconds of turning on the ignition. When I finally figured the last attempt wasn’t going to work, I started the engine for some heat while I was working and a couple of minutes later I noticed the SRS light had turned off
 

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A big thank you to this forum for all the help. I replaced the driver and passenger seats in a 2019 promaster with OEM seats. The 2019 promaster has an airbag in the seat. Hoping someone in this forum might know the ohm resister needed for the in seat airbag sensor?

Thank you
Kevin
 

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Look at post #28.
I believe post #28 is referring to the airbag pre-tensioner, part of the yellow clip that connects to the seatbelt. A seat with an airbag installed in the seat has the yellow clip for the seatbelt, the passenger has the occupancy sensor and both the driver and passenger seats have an orange connector that attaches to the internal airbag. I have searched the webs and cannot find a specific post for a promaster in seat airbag ohm rating.
 

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Are these actual OEM promaster seats? Do they have the matching plugs? If they don't, the above fix will fool the ECU. If you are just trying to put a resistor where the airbag is supposed to be (blown airbag?) I believe it's 2.5 ohm. Everything I've read suggests 2.5 is the common resistance for airbags.
 

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Are these actual OEM promaster seats? Do they have the matching plugs? If they don't, the above fix will fool the ECU. If you are just trying to put a resistor where the airbag is supposed to be (blown airbag?) I believe it's 2.5 ohm. Everything I've read suggests 2.5 is the common resistance for airbags.
These are not actual OEM seats, they are seats purchased from discountvantruck. Ordered 2.5 ohm resistors
 

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I have read this thread 3x now and am more confused than ever. Can someone please do a summary of the process and what resistors go where? I really want to swap out the bench seat but it seems so intimidating. If I can solve the issue without buying Mopar parts or taking apart the bench seat to salvage sensors that would be awesome. What about going to a place that modifies vans to make them wheelchair accessible? I need help!!!
 
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