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Hi just wanted to add a few pictures to this thread , as this thread helped get me started .

pic 1 shows starter battery + ...top view

pic 2 route i used for + wire to get behind the driver seat , there was a empty cable management clip already there that i was able to use

pic 3 route i used for + wire to get behind the driver seat

pic 4 shows starter battery +... bottom view .....all square headed battery post bolts
 

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My battery connections seem to be pretty booked up. I don't have the empty spot that most here seem to have. This is a new 2017, not sure what option would have added this connection. It is a 250 amp fuse, with only one connection... a 50 amp inline fuse (upper left). No idea where this goes. I unscrewed the terminals and the ring is adhered to the fuse. :confused:

After seeing this, my plan was to use the slot occupied by the upfit connection since I won't be using that. I bought a 50A MIDI fuse, but apparently the brand I purchased makes them 12 mm wide instead of 10 mm, so it won't fit in this spot. Next thought, other than snipping 2mm off, I am using 6 AWG so 70 amp is fine. But my terminal lugs won't fit that spot either. :mad:

So I suppose I will either use an inline fuse attached somewhere here, or just use the upfitter connection after all.



 

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So I suppose I will either use an inline fuse attached somewhere here, or just use the upfitter connection after all.




I would have figured that fused line went to the upfitter connection, but you are saying it doesn't? What other options do you have installed?
 

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I would have figured that fused line went to the upfitter connection, but you are saying it doesn't? What other options do you have installed?
The upfit power is a small brown color fuse farthest to the right, next to the mystery 250A. I'll grab a shot of my window sticker tonight.
 

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I don't see anything that I don't have electrically speaking. I'll have to look again to confirm that I don't have the fuse and cable. I didn't realize the Upfit connection was standard - the docs refer to an order code. Now I'll have to think about what I can do with it.
 

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Just getting ready to start this project: Starter batter -> Isolator -> house battery.

Talking to a guy at the local car stereo place and he got me onto the idea of using an amplifier wiring kit.

Looks like either 8 or 4 gauge would work.

InstallGear Amplifier Wiring Kits $20
Link: http://a.co/1KOEHFx

Probably not the best quality wire, but going up a size should help.

Thoughts?
 

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The upfit power is a small brown color fuse farthest to the right, next to the mystery 250A. I'll grab a shot of my window sticker tonight.
Did you ever figure out what that 250A fuse was for? I just looked at mine and I have the same thing, which means no free slots in the fuse block.
 

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ref.:

KNDLKSTMS
04-28-2017, 03:55 AM
Sorry to hear. Hooked up my Bat Doc last week , no prob. Put a 150 amp maxi in the stock location and ran big cable back to Bat Doc. Did it like most folks here . Followed Bat Doc directions, routed cables like KOV . Started van , blue light on , 14.4 volts . Turn van off, blue light goes off when surface charge returns to under 13 volts. Pop a fuse ?
Power distribution is OEM "starter" cable on a 250 amp maxi goes out to underhood fuse / circuit breaker /relay box . 2 70 amp midi fuses feed under dash fuse panel . And maybe an add on CB/fuse. My experiance is with a stubby gasser. Get a test light / volt meter and check fuses.
 

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ref.:

KNDLKSTMS
04-28-2017, 03:55 AM
Sorry to hear. Hooked up my Bat Doc last week , no prob. Put a 150 amp maxi in the stock location and ran big cable back to Bat Doc. Did it like most folks here . Followed Bat Doc directions, routed cables like KOV . Started van , blue light on , 14.4 volts . Turn van off, blue light goes off when surface charge returns to under 13 volts. Pop a fuse ?
Power distribution is OEM "starter" cable on a 250 amp maxi goes out to underhood fuse / circuit breaker /relay box . 2 70 amp midi fuses feed under dash fuse panel . And maybe an add on CB/fuse. My experiance is with a stubby gasser. Get a test light / volt meter and check fuses.
That quote is from this thread: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=426778&postcount=3 and I believe KNDLKSTMS is referring to the upper left MTA POWERFUL CAL.5 fuse, not the lower MTA MEGAVAL 250A in beewill's photo above. That 250A MEGAVAL is in the location he put his 150A fuse.
 

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Tracing the additional fused connections

No, still don't know what it is for.

I went and traced cables this morning, and I'm almost certain that the 250A MEGAVAL fuse is connected to the additional fuse box in the passenger B-pillar. There are two additional fuses beyond the earlier van photos:

- 70A fuse wired to the Upfitter Power Connector and documented in the body builder guide
- 250A fuse wired to a second 50A fuse, with a narrower-gauge wire than the one for the Upfitter Power Connector

See photos below - I didn't pull my seats off or run a continuity test to be certain, but that's my best guess.

I do have the Auxiliary Switches option (LHL), as does beewill, and the switches provide 20A each per the accessory connector PDF. From my wire tracing it looks like the narrower-gauge wire feeds into the fuse and relay block adjacent to the upfitter connector, which would make sense.

I suspect that the 250A fuse is used for both the Auxiliary Switches and the Auxiliary Battery Prep, which is why it's so oversized, and has the secondary 50A fuse for the wiring I do have. Based on this, I'm thinking I'll tap off the 250A fuse with a second lug and wire (sized for 250A, or add a secondary fuse) for my house battery charging.

Fuse Block:



50A fuse attached to block cover:



Upfitter and second wires - driver's side



Upfitter and second wires - passenger side

 

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Did mine exactly like this.

I am trying to connect the house batteries also like this. The one step I can't find an answer for is how do you install the bolt in this mounting block? I tried to loosen up the + battery terminal thinking the whole assembly would come off but I don't think it does?

I see some posts where it looks like they bent the metal tab up to get the bolt under but what do you do for the other side of the Mega fuse? I would rather not bend it if I can find another way

Of course I have the van torn apart now. I was hoping to finish the job today but I guess tomorrow is another day.


Thx
 

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I am trying to connect the house batteries also like this. The one step I can't find an answer for is how do you install the bolt in this mounting block? I tried to loosen up the + battery terminal thinking the whole assembly would come off but I don't think it does?

I see some posts where it looks like they bent the metal tab up to get the bolt under but what do you do for the other side of the Mega fuse? I would rather not bend it if I can find another way

Of course I have the van torn apart now. I was hoping to finish the job today but I guess tomorrow is another day.


Thx
I did see the post about removing the 2 screws from the red bar on top. I did that but it still seem to be tight. Does the red bar need to come off? What is the red bar for? (There was a pic showing a couple of arrows indicating to remove these screws). Hope this make sense.
 

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Remove the screws and loosen the + battery clamp and pull it up!
 

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It puzzled me how to remove it, I removed the 2 screws and loosen the + clamp nut. Working from the driver door I lifted and pulled it towards me. Those 2 screws spread out plastic retaining pieces, like old school drywall anchors. Those retainers fit in grooves on top of the battery.

I think that's how I did it.

or just do what KOV says.
 

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I went and traced cables this morning, and I'm almost certain that the 250A MEGAVAL fuse is connected to the additional fuse box in the passenger B-pillar. There are two additional fuses beyond the earlier van photos:

- 70A fuse wired to the Upfitter Power Connector and documented in the body builder guide
- 250A fuse wired to a second 50A fuse, with a narrower-gauge wire than the one for the Upfitter Power Connector

See photos below - I didn't pull my seats off or run a continuity test to be certain, but that's my best guess.

I do have the Auxiliary Switches option (LHL), as does beewill, and the switches provide 20A each per the accessory connector PDF. From my wire tracing it looks like the narrower-gauge wire feeds into the fuse and relay block adjacent to the upfitter connector, which would make sense.

I suspect that the 250A fuse is used for both the Auxiliary Switches and the Auxiliary Battery Prep, which is why it's so oversized, and has the secondary 50A fuse for the wiring I do have. Based on this, I'm thinking I'll tap off the 250A fuse with a second lug and wire (sized for 250A, or add a secondary fuse) for my house battery charging.

Fuse Block:



50A fuse attached to block cover:



Upfitter and second wires - driver's side



Upfitter and second wires - passenger side

From FCA:

Battery Fuse Terminal Information:

Starting with the closest fuse to the positive battery post/clamp:
1. Fuse F73 -
2. Fuse F72 -
3. Fuse F71 -
4. Fuse F70 -
Positive battery cable is attached to the following fuse:

Fuse FCAL5 -

Starting with the closest fuse to the positive battery post/clamp:
1. Fuse F73 - 70 Amp - Body Control Module - A Fused B(+)
2. Fuse F72 - 70 Amp - Body Control Module - B Fused B(+)
3. Fuse F71 - 70 Amp - Upfitter Accessories Power/Ground - B(+)
4. Fuse F70 - 250 Amp - Auxiliary Switch Fuse - Fused B(+)
Positive battery cable is attached to the following fuse:

Fuse FCAL5 - 250 Amp - Post Pass Through - (B+) - Power Distribution

Center Assembly - B(+)
 
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