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Discussion Starter #1
I'm wanting to add a fuse to the high current fuse block mounted on the positive terminal of my 2016 diesel's battery. I need to find a source for the square headed studs that go through that block and allow mounting a fuse down. Does anybody know what the correct term for those is, and where to get them?
 

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If we are talking about the same thing you can just get a bolt off te shelf and accomplish what you want to do. I think I used a 5/16" SS one about an 1" long with a nut and lock washer to make the stud then I bolted one end of the fuse to the stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I've done so far, but I'd rather do it right - having something that I can reliably unbolt from the top without losing the bolt would be nice.
 

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You use two nuts. One on the bottom and one on the top. It will never move if you use either a lock washer or lock nut. I know from past experience because I forgot the lock washer when I was doing it the first time and ended up with a weak connection and couldn't figure out why. Once I took it apart to check it I realized the problem and after putting the lock washer in it has been perfect!
 

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That's what I have done so far, but I'd still rather do things the correct way.

Does anybody else know what to Google to find what I need?
 

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If we are talking about the same thing you can just get a bolt off te shelf and accomplish what you want to do. I think I used a 5/16" SS one about an 1" long with a nut and lock washer to make the stud then I bolted one end of the fuse to the stud.

KOV can you share a picture of what this looks like?

My electrician will soon be getting to connecting my battery doctor to the van battery. He wants to install a 150amp fuse at the van battery. He said he needs 2 bolts and washers, and a 150amp fuse. I am thinking he is trying to do something similar to what you did. I'm thinking I need to add lock washers and a few nuts to that shopping list...?
 

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Wowbagger,
You say "That's what I have done so far, but I'd still rather do things the correct way.
Does anybody else know what to Google to find what I need?”

Strange- I thought KOV did do it right! And no, I too don’t know what the “right” thing you want is or what it is called, sorry.
 

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That is the picture it's the cable going to the black 175 amp Mega fuse. Just use a ss bolt, lock washer and nut on each end of the fuse and you're hood to go.

Thanks KOV - my bad...I can never can see half of the pictures posted on here. I'll take a look tonight on my home computer.
 

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A couple, hopefully, easy questions. How do you get access to the bottom of the fuse bar to insert the bolts? Is there an easy way or do you have to remove the other connections so you can lift up the unit?

Thanx Willi
 

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If we are talking about the same thing you can just get a bolt off te shelf and accomplish what you want to do. I think I used a 5/16" SS one about an 1" long with a nut and lock washer to make the stud then I bolted one end of the fuse to the stud.
A couple questions about this setup. How do you get access to the bar to insert the bolts? Do you have to remove all the connections to loosen it or is there an easier way that I'm missing?

Willi
 

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Myself I used a square headed battery post clamp bolt from an old battery cable ( like the ones at the AUTO PARTS store ) . Cut it a little shorter and voila , done.
 

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Thanx everyone for the info. How many of the bolts (and which ones) do you have to loosen to raise the bar enough to get the bolts in?

Willi
 

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I just installed an inverter with help from this thread. A couple things I learned that may help someone else:



In order to remove the positive bar assembly, you need to remove the two screws indicated by the yellow arrows in addition to loosening the terminal.





It's hard find a square headed bolt to fit. I used a 5/16, 3/4 inch long hex bolt with a washer and lock washer. I ground down two points of the hex head as shown in the picture. I ground down just enough so they fit tightly in the plastic holders and I was able to cinch down the nuts without a problem.

Thanx again for the help

Willi

PS After disconnecting the battery, I didn't have to put in a code into the radio, Uconnect 5.0. It even remembered it's settings. I did have to reset the date and time.
 
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