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perfect. I'm going to be doing a very similar layout and wanted to make sure there was enough room for a table. I'll be doing fixed full size bunks in back. Thanks for the photos!
 

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Here are pictures. My craftsmanship in the shower looks pretty bad. I wanted to ensure it was waterproof so I didn't wipe off the sealant adhesive as much as I would have liked to for aesthetic reasons. In real life it does look a little better. I wanted the side wall to be in one piece, but because I did the walls last, I couldn't get it in the shower in one piece. I did the electrical system last. Because of that, I couldn't test the plumbing. I didn't want to close up the shower walls permanently until the plumbing was tested.

Anyway, at the bottom, the shower pan goes all the way to the edge of the "notch". Then I extended the wall about 4" over the shower pan in order to accommodate the seat going back. The amount I needed to extend it was determined by a plumb line, marking where I had a 90• angle to the "notch" and room for the seat.

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks for those pictures. You don't have to apologize. I think you did a great job. You could always redo the sealant if it ever bothers you that much.

I went ahead and looked at the shower pan again this morning, and I'm starting to think that you may right. This pan is just huge, and I'm not sure how accessible that rear bench is going to be from that side once I build out all the walls even if I build them in toward the shower as much as possible.

The extra space along the back wall facing the rear passenger seat doesn't really get me anything other than just the appearance of efficient use of space. If the pan were slightly smaller this design would be better, but I don't really have the time or patience to get a custom shower pan made.

I think I could solve dinette entry issue with the 21" rectangular shower pan just by cutting a slant out of that corner of the table on that side. It's not like anyone is going to fall through a 1' angled gap once it's converted into a bed and covered with cushions.

I also love your sliding door idea, which would be cheap and easy to make and install. We did them in our tiny house Airbnb rental where we just didn't have room for traditional doors. I assume that you lined the inside of that with FRP board also?
 

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Thanks for those pictures. You don't have to apologize. I think you did a great job. You could always redo the sealant if it ever bothers you that much.

I went ahead and looked at the shower pan again this morning, and I'm starting to think that you may right. This pan is just huge, and I'm not sure how accessible that rear bench is going to be from that side once I build out all the walls even if I build them in toward the shower as much as possible.

The extra space along the back wall facing the rear passenger seat doesn't really get me anything other than just the appearance of efficient use of space. If the pan were slightly smaller this design would be better, but I don't really have the time or patience to get a custom shower pan made.

I think I could solve dinette entry issue with the 21" rectangular shower pan just by cutting a slant out of that corner of the table on that side. It's not like anyone is going to fall through a 1' angled gap once it's converted into a bed and covered with cushions.

I also love your sliding door idea, which would be cheap and easy to make and install. We did them in our tiny house Airbnb rental where we just didn't have room for traditional doors. I assume that you lined the inside of that with FRP board also?
Oooooh. I see what you're saying about the table and that corner! If the table is on a lagun mount, you will be able to move the table to get into the seating area, no big deal. It moves forward, back, left, right... I have the same issue with my kitchen counter. If you go with a raising and lowering pedestal you won't be able to do that. You could also extent the seat on the shower side to align with the shower. That would give you a slightly smaller table and more room for the cushions. A big table on the small base could detach from the base if someone leans on it too hard. I don't know if that will happen, but maybe take the table measurement and google or ask people here if they think it will work.

I did face the door with FRP. But I put a spring rod and shower curtain in. I don't trust the seam where the door meets the short wall to not leak water somewhere.

One thing about the sliding door. The opening to enter the shower is small, I think 18" maybe a little less, and there's no way around it. It's perfect for me but I tried to make it bigger and there's just no way around it. So if you have a small family, it's great, but if anyone is big, getting into the bathroom will be a squeeze. (the hardware is not barn door hardware, but a barn door for a cabinet. so it's smaller. the hard part was getting the 35" bar. I ended up with a 36" bar and made it work. )
 

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The lagun mount would need to be mounted like in this picture. .But my table is only 32" long. Your table wouldn't be centered over it.

Install mount BEFORE water tank. it's got a wood plate inside with wingnut bolts

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Oooooh. I see what you're saying about the table and that corner! If the table is on a lagun mount, you will be able to move the table to get into the seating area, no big deal. It moves forward, back, left, right... I have the same issue with my kitchen counter. If you go with a raising and lowering pedestal you won't be able to do that. You could also extent the seat on the shower side to align with the shower. That would give you a slightly smaller table and more room for the cushions. A big table on the small base could detach from the base if someone leans on it too hard. I don't know if that will happen, but maybe take the table measurement and google or ask people here if they think it will work.

I did face the door with FRP. But I put a spring rod and shower curtain in. I don't trust the seam where the door meets the short wall to not leak water somewhere.

One thing about the sliding door. The opening to enter the shower is small, I think 18" maybe a little less, and there's no way around it. It's perfect for me but I tried to make it bigger and there's just no way around it. So if you have a small family, it's great, but if anyone is big, getting into the bathroom will be a squeeze. (the hardware is not barn door hardware, but a barn door for a cabinet. so it's smaller. the hard part was getting the 35" bar. I ended up with a 36" bar and made it work. )
You have a lot of good ideas. Thanks for all the input.

Did you do most or all of that work yourself? I'm super impressed. My wife is pretty handy with woodworking, but she's not the all-around craftsman that you are.

I think I'm going to go with a pedestal for the table. I think the lagun mounts are kind of expensive? And I'm not sure how well it'll work with a table that big. Also, I'd like for people to slide around which the Lagun mounts can make kind of challenging.

Once I get the bathroom built, I'll see exactly how much space I need for maneuvering in and out on that side of the table and am confident that once I see what I'm working with I'll either cut out a slant on that table and/or extend the bench out on that side as you suggested.

I already ordered the new pan from Amazon. They had one "used" for $106 which is about $200 cheaper than this current pan.
 

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You have a lot of good ideas. Thanks for all the input.

Did you do most or all of that work yourself? I'm super impressed. My wife is pretty handy with woodworking, but she's not the all-around craftsman that you are.

I think I'm going to go with a pedestal for the table. I think the lagun mounts are kind of expensive? And I'm not sure how well it'll work with a table that big. Also, I'd like for people to slide around which the Lagun mounts can make kind of challenging.

Once I get the bathroom built, I'll see exactly how much space I need for maneuvering in and out on that side of the table and am confident that once I see what I'm working with I'll either cut out a slant on that table and/or extend the bench out on that side as you suggested.

I already ordered the new pan from Amazon. They had one "used" for $106 which is about $200 cheaper than this current pan.
I did all of the interior myself. I'm a designer by profession, so solving spacial problems is my specialty. I'm small and not strong, so that kind of stuff was hard, plus I didn't have much in the way of tools. I met someone here, @djmoyer , and he lives near me. He was a godsend. He helped me with the roof elements, cutting the holes in the floor for the water system and all the under the van / grey water stuff. I'm gonna help him and make all his window coverings and cushions.

Raising and lowering pedestals cost a fortune! I looked into them. I got my lagun for cheap. It was on ebay advertised as slightly damaged, but I see no damage.

You're smart to just do the shower and then figure the next thing from there. That's exactly what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
So, I picked up the Lolaeliz shower pan, and it's definitely a lot more compact and lighter than the residential style one that was just too big. Naturally, I started watching youtube to see how others have framed in their showers, and I stumbled onto a video which I almost wish I hadn't watched:

This guy made a custom shower pan out of wood and a couple of layers of white flex seal. It looks really good and passed his water test. Whether it stands the test of time and how hard it is to clean, I have no idea, but this would be ideal for my odd shaped space.

Is this a bad idea? I saw @jbourne48 in another thread toss around that possibility, but has anyone tried it? I don't really feel like finding a fabricator or learning how to make my own fiberglass pan, but maybe this isn't something worth trying to find the easy way out.

CAMPER VAN SHOWER BUILD with FLEX SEAL #flexseal #vanlife - YouTube
 

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I watched the same video a few months back. I'd be very worried about he long term durability of flex seal based on general reviews of the product. And at that scale I'd really be worried about stability.
 
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So, I picked up the Lolaeliz shower pan, and it's definitely a lot more compact and lighter than the residential style one that was just too big. Naturally, I started watching youtube to see how others have framed in their showers, and I stumbled onto a video which I almost wish I hadn't watched:

This guy made a custom shower pan out of wood and a couple of layers of white flex seal. It looks really good and passed his water test. Whether it stands the test of time and how hard it is to clean, I have no idea, but this would be ideal for my odd shaped space.

Is this a bad idea? I saw @jbourne48 in another thread toss around that possibility, but has anyone tried it? I don't really feel like finding a fabricator or learning how to make my own fiberglass pan, but maybe this isn't something worth trying to find the easy way out.

CAMPER VAN SHOWER BUILD with FLEX SEAL #flexseal #vanlife - YouTube
I watched a video when I was planning things from Sara & Alex James. They used this red stuff called redguard, and they applied the liquid to some kind of red guard tape. If I was to make my own shower pan, I would want something like that. I wouldn't trust just wood with a sealer with all the bumping around and vibrations that happen in a van.

And another guy built a wooden pan and filled it wilt liquid rubber. That would me a little more trustworthy.

HERE is the video with the red stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I watched a video when I was planning things from Sara & Alex James. They used this red stuff called redguard, and they applied the liquid to some kind of red guard tape. If I was to make my own shower pan, I would want something like that. I wouldn't trust just wood with a sealer with all the bumping around and vibrations that happen in a van.

And another guy built a wooden pan and filled it wilt liquid rubber. That would me a little more trustworthy.

HERE is the video with the red stuff.
Thanks. I figure there's no reason to let perfect be the enemy of good, so I'll just stick with this design. This pan will make the bathroom no bigger than it needs to be with a standing spot for the shower and spot for the toilet and nothing else. No need to waste more living space building a triangular shaped bathroom just to make the rear bench more accessible.

I got the pan base framed out and built yesterday, so now it's just a matter of finding the right spot to drill through and to start framing out the walls. Thanks again for the design ideas and input.
 

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Thanks. I figure there's no reason to let perfect be the enemy of good, so I'll just stick with this design. This pan will make the bathroom no bigger than it needs to be with a standing spot for the shower and spot for the toilet and nothing else. No need to waste more living space building a triangular shaped bathroom just to make the rear bench more accessible.

I got the pan base framed out and built yesterday, so now it's just a matter of finding the right spot to drill through and to start framing out the walls. Thanks again for the design ideas and input.
I'm glad to have helped! I built a little "table" for the toilet part to sit on. You probably thought of that too. I guess that depends on the kind of toilet you get, I went with cheap camper style and I really like it: simple to use and no smells.

My guess from your placement you won't have drain issues. It was really tough for me, because my drain was so much further forward than yours and there were so many van parts close to where the drain was to be drilled.

I used this toilet. It's really short, but sitting on the "step" it's perfect toilet height. I keep it Velcroed to the floor so it can be emptied.

Amazon.com: Porta Potti Thetford Corp White Thetford 92860 135 : Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I'm glad to have helped! I built a little "table" for the toilet part to sit on. You probably thought of that too. I guess that depends on the kind of toilet you get, I went with cheap camper style and I really like it: simple to use and no smells.

My guess from your placement you won't have drain issues. It was really tough for me, because my drain was so much further forward than yours and there were so many van parts close to where the drain was to be drilled.

I used this toilet. It's really short, but sitting on the "step" it's perfect toilet height. I keep it Velcroed to the floor so it can be emptied.

Amazon.com: Porta Potti Thetford Corp White Thetford 92860 135 : Automotive
I was just out there kind of working it out in my head. I drilled my pilot hole which thankfully didn’t line up with any framing but is pretty close to some brake lines. I should be able to safely clear it though.

I’ll have to slant in that passenger seat wall a little as I figured, but I still should have plenty of room for the toilet, which is similar to yours.

I think I’m going to lay my interior facing studs on the short end of 2x4’s and use the 5mm plywood that I used for all the interior walls. It’s a little more forgiving to work with, and the studs should add enough rigidity even before the next layer of FRP on the inside.

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I bet that will work (2x4 on side). A thought: you want the plumbing on the bunk side, right? You might want to flip the pan so the water goes over the toilet not onto it. Although that might put the drain in a bad spot.
You might be able to avoid the angled wall and help with the water/drain. 2x3's or 23x4's along the back and front, with a built out narrow box for the plumbing and place the regulators and shower arm in the corner. That could give you nearly 2" and maybe a straight wall!

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Even use 2x3's unless you already bought them. On the wall where My faucet will be i used 2x3's:
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And on the other wall it's just 1/4" plywood on the outside and frp on the inside. I put the vertical 2x3 support on the front, kind of acting lime a very short wall. And I had 2x4's along the van wall so the 1/4" plywood attached to that and the front vertical beam. Not that you should do what I dod, but it can't hurt to see other solutions.

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Here is the finished shower:

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OR, you could run the pipes low behind the wall and then behind the seats, putting the plumbing in this corner. It's not bad to go behind the walls as long as. i't just pipe and the fittings are all accessible for potential repair.

And instead of cutting off a corner of the table, maybe just make it 6 or sdo inches shorter, and keep a board to fill in for the bed.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thanks. I think I’m going to keep the shower pan as-is. After pulling it out from the wall just to smidge to fit the plywood and studs on the van wall side, the drain lines up basically perfectly away from the brake lines. I figure if I’m taking a shower the toilet is going to get all wet in either case and a little slant to the wall on the toilet side will not restrict mobility in there at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I still think that I’ll put the fixture on the bench facing wall and maybe put a little door on the other side of it in case I need to access the plumbing.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
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