My 2015 3500, hi roof extended gasser got the nickname of “Babe, the big red pig” after it swallowed all the gear and the shifter kart my suburban used to haul with a trailer. Yup, that’ll do pig. The PM has huge volume to swallow LOTs of toys.
Eventually it will tow the shifter kart trailer, or whatever Mod vehicle I will be autocrossing, Along with being a camper to hit as many of the 413 national park/monuments as can be visited. Already punched off the Smoky Mtn national Park… 412 more to go..
Insulation: I decided to try out the Hi-Tech SC1000 paint followed by Polyiso and thinsulate as needed. Sound meter readings will be taken and posted once the paint has been applied. Also the reason for the paint opposed to the self-adhesive butyl tile equal cost for less weight explaination.
Generator: One of the reasons I purchased the 3500 I did was because it has the factory 220 amp alternator. The 2800 watt Onan should have better fuel economy than adding a second alternator and still have better ground clearance. So, a genset and where to stick the spare tire?? is on the horizon.
Roof AC: Since the girlfriend has stated “ chunky chick MUST have A/C or you will NOT be happy!!” Most likely will go with a Coleman Mach 8 heat pump or a Dometic Penguin II heat pump. There will be no house propane in this build. So heat will be either heat pump or gasoline powered heater. National parks charge $4 more for a 30 amp hook up? OK, sign me up!! Cooking will be inductive hot plate and microwave/ toaster oven.
Floor plan: We started out this quest liking the Winebago Vista Cruiser G24 floor plan from back in 2005. The current floor plan class B rigs we like are the Safari Condo XLFLEX and the Hymer Aktiv. Safari Condo currently has over a year lead time to build the XLFLEX. Since we are in USA we would need to provide a US spec Promaster and about $35-$40K of cash. The Hymers Ive seen listed for sale are in the $106K range. $74K more than I paid for my 3500 with about all the factory options for a motorhome/camper build. I think I can build a dinette up front with the factory swivel seats, rear transverse bed for 2 with a kitchen and bath in between less than the commercial offerings.
Solar and electric: LiFePo offer more usable juice from 20% to 95% capacity than deep cycle lead that can only do 50% at most. I just wish the businesses offering the components were more forthcoming on specs. There are a few threads I’m watching for details to copy. Proven to work beats, “aww, it’ll be fine.:” My day job is experimental electronics. I don’t have the personal spare cash to experiment on power electronics. I must KISS, Keep it Stupid Simple on my dime.
Water: no black tank. Cassette or port-o-potty. Not sold on an interior shower. I do like the idea of the shower stall with venting to hold the crapper so you close the door and odors aren’t shared with the rest of the rig. With a decent sized sink and spray faucet can do a sponge bath to freshen up. Truck stops offer full blown showers for $10ish if I absolutely have to have a hot steaming 30 minute shower. This is the grey area on the build.. get it.. grey area,, yeah, yeah.. not so puny.
Eventually it will tow the shifter kart trailer, or whatever Mod vehicle I will be autocrossing, Along with being a camper to hit as many of the 413 national park/monuments as can be visited. Already punched off the Smoky Mtn national Park… 412 more to go..
Insulation: I decided to try out the Hi-Tech SC1000 paint followed by Polyiso and thinsulate as needed. Sound meter readings will be taken and posted once the paint has been applied. Also the reason for the paint opposed to the self-adhesive butyl tile equal cost for less weight explaination.
Generator: One of the reasons I purchased the 3500 I did was because it has the factory 220 amp alternator. The 2800 watt Onan should have better fuel economy than adding a second alternator and still have better ground clearance. So, a genset and where to stick the spare tire?? is on the horizon.
Roof AC: Since the girlfriend has stated “ chunky chick MUST have A/C or you will NOT be happy!!” Most likely will go with a Coleman Mach 8 heat pump or a Dometic Penguin II heat pump. There will be no house propane in this build. So heat will be either heat pump or gasoline powered heater. National parks charge $4 more for a 30 amp hook up? OK, sign me up!! Cooking will be inductive hot plate and microwave/ toaster oven.
Floor plan: We started out this quest liking the Winebago Vista Cruiser G24 floor plan from back in 2005. The current floor plan class B rigs we like are the Safari Condo XLFLEX and the Hymer Aktiv. Safari Condo currently has over a year lead time to build the XLFLEX. Since we are in USA we would need to provide a US spec Promaster and about $35-$40K of cash. The Hymers Ive seen listed for sale are in the $106K range. $74K more than I paid for my 3500 with about all the factory options for a motorhome/camper build. I think I can build a dinette up front with the factory swivel seats, rear transverse bed for 2 with a kitchen and bath in between less than the commercial offerings.
Solar and electric: LiFePo offer more usable juice from 20% to 95% capacity than deep cycle lead that can only do 50% at most. I just wish the businesses offering the components were more forthcoming on specs. There are a few threads I’m watching for details to copy. Proven to work beats, “aww, it’ll be fine.:” My day job is experimental electronics. I don’t have the personal spare cash to experiment on power electronics. I must KISS, Keep it Stupid Simple on my dime.
Water: no black tank. Cassette or port-o-potty. Not sold on an interior shower. I do like the idea of the shower stall with venting to hold the crapper so you close the door and odors aren’t shared with the rest of the rig. With a decent sized sink and spray faucet can do a sponge bath to freshen up. Truck stops offer full blown showers for $10ish if I absolutely have to have a hot steaming 30 minute shower. This is the grey area on the build.. get it.. grey area,, yeah, yeah.. not so puny.
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