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I've read on a couple sites that there is an auxiliary fuel line pre installed on the gas as well as diesel Promasters. I'm considering the Promaster for a self build RV project and would like to add a Webasto gas powered heater as well as tap into the main gas tank to refill my small portable generator (I would like to avoid carrying a gas can in my enclosed trailer).

Has anyone here made use of that added fuel line or have more information about? Is it easy to access? Where is it located? How large is it and of what material is it made? Thanks for any help!
 

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I posted a picture a while back, I will try to find it.
Yes there is a spare plastic gas nipple on top of the gas tank you can get at it
from between the seats 6x6 floor covering then three Philips screws on a metal plate.
The one screw is hard to get at, so you can just bend the plate up.
I have the Webasto gas heater. Keep the tank full as I think the stem only goes 3/4 way down.
This prevents you from being standed with no fuel to drive away.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I posted a picture a while back, I will try to find it.
Yes there is a spare plastic gas nipple on top of the gas tank you can get at it
from between the seats 6x6 floor covering then three Philips screws on a metal plate.
The one screw is hard to get at, so you can just bend the plate up.
I have the Webasto gas heater. Keep the tank full as I think the stem only goes 3/4 way down.
This prevents you from being standed with no fuel to drive away.
Thanks Uncubed! Sounds like it will work well for my intended uses.

How do you like the Webasto heater? Did you have it installed or do it yourself? I've seen a number of the diesel versions, but it's hard to find feedback on the gas versions.
 

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Thanks Uncubed! Sounds like it will work well for my intended uses.

How do you like the Webasto heater? Did you have it installed or do it yourself? I've seen a number of the diesel versions, but it's hard to find feedback on the gas versions.
Your Welcome!
The Webasto gas heater is great. It was a lot of work to install. Had to cut a big hole
in a brand new van(floor) which kinda freaks me out.
It is quiet inside but a little loud outside. I am still looking for a muffler for it.
It has to be stainless steel and 22mm? I did not know there was a gas version until
I Google it.
 

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Roger this one is for you!
Did anyone post a picture of the top of the fuel tank? Here is one. For my diesel Espar I did not install a check valve and no issue. For gas I probably would. uncubed did you? YMMV on that.



Screwdriver points to aux. fuel spud. Remove the green clip and it comes right off. If you are looking for a gasoline version of the Wabasto heater an eBay seller has it now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WEBASTO-AIR-TOP-2000-STC-12V-2-0-kW-PETROL-BENZINE-HEATER-9031124B-/281214486217
 

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Makes sense to not need the check valve on the diesel model and if you don't get a light than I wouldn't use one either. depend on how the heater pump works (being able to hold the pressure from the gas tank acting as a check valve itself than I would think you wouldn't need one either. When I finally get one I'm going to get the check valve and if I don't have any issues ill leave it in. Did you ever have any priming problems or problems with the fuel gelling up? seems like you would have to make sure you fire up the heater every once in a while in case of bad fuel. I'm may place a bleeder and primer in the fuel line to bleed of and prime new fuel incase of bad fuel in he line. RD thanks again and again for all the great info on your system!
 

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I didn’t start it from April until just the other day. When I wanted to start it I made a mistake and shut off the power and couldn’t think why it didn’t start but when the power was restored it started right up to show MsNomer & MrNomer. No bleed, no loss of siphon, not nearly cold enough to gell, no problem! I started the siphon when I installed it by the traditional method- suck a bit on the pipe until raw hydrocarbons enter your mouth then spit and gag.
 

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Put a check valve in after the pump. Pumps like to pump their not good at suction. In the cold the fuel in the tank will contract and could suck the fuel from the line. My parking heater would not fire up this morning, and I believe that to be the cause 24 degrees. It fired up no problem at 27 degrees this week. I have fresh northern fuel so jelling should not be a problem. Could my hose clamps have not been tight enough and let air in maybe. It's running now, if I could just locate my manual so I knew what the red flash count means.
 

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In my instructions the pipe after the pump is described as a "capillary tube" and it and the dosing pump very specialized making me think you won’t be doing that. Just saying.
 

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TravelDerby,
Like you, I didn't want to carry a separate gas tank. I use the aux feed on my 3500 gasser to refill my portable generator... I use a simple hand operated pump and approx. 10ft of clear PVC tubing to refuel my Honda eu2000i generator. I bought the PVC just large enough to tightly fit over the tank nipple... no special connections needed as long as the hand pump keeps suction. Simple & cheap... I didn't install any fancy equipment since the refuel operation occurs so infrequently.
 

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Put a check valve in after the pump. Pumps like to pump their not good at suction. In the cold the fuel in the tank will contract and could suck the fuel from the line. My parking heater would not fire up this morning, and I believe that to be the cause 24 degrees. It fired up no problem at 27 degrees this week. I have fresh northern fuel so jelling should not be a problem. Could my hose clamps have not been tight enough and let air in maybe. It's running now, if I could just locate my manual so I knew what the red flash count means.


15.1. Fault code output
NOTE:
Visit www.butlertechnik.com for more technical information and downloads.
After a fault has occurred in heaters with a control element, the fault code is output by the switch-on indicator/fault code indicator lamp flashing. After 5 fast flash pulses, the fault code is output by a sequence of long flash pulses, corresponding to the numbers in the table below.
After a fault has occurred in heaters equipped with the combination timer, the fault code is shown in the timer display. The fault number is indicated by the indicator lamp flashing if the control element is used:
F00 Control unit fault / incorrect data set / K-bus faulty
F01 No start (no flame formation)
F02 Flame failure (repeated > 3)
F03 Undervoltage or overvoltage
F04 Premature flame recognition
F05 Flame monitor (petrol heater) interrupted or short-circuited
F06 Temperature sensor interrupted or short-circuited
F07 Fuel pump interrupted or short-circuited
F08 Fan motor interrupted or short-circuited or overloaded
or blocked
F09 Glow plug interrupted or short-circuited
F10 Overheating
F11 Overheating sensor interrupted or short-circuited
F12 Heater lock-out
F14 Overheating sensor incorrect position
F15 Setpoint sensor interrupted
 

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Is there a standpipe already installed in the tank for the auxiliary fuel line? In other words, did you also have to install a fuel standpipe into the tank to receive the fuel for your heater?
 

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Hi All,


After reading the thread I had a question about the Aux fuel line. Does the aux line have a standpipe that goes down into the fuel, or does a standpipe need to be installed with your heater?
 

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Hi All,


After reading the thread I had a question about the Aux fuel line. Does the aux line have a standpipe that goes down into the fuel, or does a standpipe need to be installed with your heater?
I am guessing stand pipe based on how it is described...
 

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Yes it does have a stand pipe reaching into the tank but not to the bottom to avoid draining the tank and not being able to drive. There are parts to attach to the top of the pipe in other threads. This is easy to do.
 

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very easy to tap into with a quick connect fitting. nothing else needs to be done in tank, just connect your hose to the fitting and draw out your fuel.
 

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In my instructions the pipe after the pump is described as a "capillary tube" and it and the dosing pump very specialized making me think you won’t be doing that. Just saying.
Sorry to revive old thread, but I'm installing a heater in a gas PM and unclear if I should install the one way check valve before or after the dosing pump for the heater? I'm thinking before, based on the link to the upfitters guide that Charger7022 shared about avoiding OBD11 system faults, but maybe I should install two (one before and one after) - the one after could address the issue KilWerBzz mentioned?
 
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