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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Dometic VA7000 series sink. They make it in a variety of different product numners, but the basic shape of them is the same I think. The main differences are the depth of the basin and the configuration of the drill holes for the faucet. THey all basically look like this:

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My problem is that the rear portion of the stainless steel lid flexes a little and doesn't clamp the gasket to the counter properly. You can see it (somewhat) in the photo below:

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You can see that the gasket is bulging a little at the seam and upon inspection, the entire metal flange on the rear behind the hinges must be flexing a slight bit so there is essentially no pressure on the rear portion.

You can see the four clamp-down points in the sink area in the manufacturer's photo:

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There's two at the front (in the black) and two at the rear (in the white) visible. What's happening is that the very back portion of the steel is far enough away and the piece is flat enough that it permits the back to flex and it doen't maintain a proper seal.

So, I'm looking for options...

I know that SS can be very difficult to drill, so I'm a bit concerned about trying to drill a hole in the middle back flange to add an additional clamp point, but that would be the most straightforward if the SS were viable to drill.

The instructions I got from Dometic basically said nothing about how to secure it, so I'm assuming the intent is to clamp it with the hardware they provided (they included a few different clamps and screws. I used screws into the galley wood). Since I have all the suitable hardware to clamp the sink down, I could easily get one more clamp point in the rear center to address the (seemingly) design flaw with this sink, but before I do this, I wanted to know if anyone has done anything similar with theirs or what other solutions people have come up with to address this issue.
 

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Your solution sounds like it will work fine. Drilling the stainless is easier than you think, just start with a punch so your bit stays where you want it.


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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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What about just carefully bending the back flange of the sink downward just a little bit so that when you screw in the major portion of the sink that back bit has some pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What about just carefully bending the back flange of the sink downward just a little bit so that when you screw in the major portion of the sink that back bit has some pressure?
I thought about this... I think it might work if the steel will allow me to tweak it without getting a big crinkle at the lip on each side. I may try this a little to see if there is a chance this will work. If not, I'll drill it. Either way, I have to take the sink off and make the change, so I'll just go through the progression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, just a update on this issue.

I tried to bend the sink, but the hinge flanges for the lid made it impossible to get the rear portion to flex enough to make the back portion tweak downward a little. The hinges are riveted to the basin, so I couldn't remove them to put the basin into a position to make a permanent tweak.

So, I set up the sink with a solid piece of wood blocking right behind the back and drilled a pilot hole through. That worked without incident and so I switched to the right sized hole and with a little cutting oil and the right speed setting on the drill, I made a clean hole with no metal deformation or anything. I then used it to make a new clamp point and everything went together nicely.

I'm guessing these sinks have no real tempering to them since they did drill easily. Much easier than I expected based on some previous work with other stainless steel.
 
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