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Pulled mine out first time when I got a flat recently. Jack went up smoothly until it made full contact with the lift point, but then as I kept turning it didn't lift the van. Backed it out and it looked like a ring had stripped, something must not have been threaded right. Put it back in and started over and it worked fine, but now I'm not feeling too confident in it. Anyone else had issues?
 

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2014, 138WB, High Roof, Gas, SW MT
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Hi,
The jack has worked OK for me.

But, I've had trouble with the winch that lets down the spare tire not wanting to go the last bit when pulling the tire back up in place. Helps to lube it and to make sure the lift plate is aligned properly for the last bit.

Have also twisted the lug wrench they provided right in half while removing a lug nut -- which leaves you with no lug wrench and no jack handle. I welded the two halves of the jack handle back together, but now carry an 18 inch breaker bar type socket to get stubborn lug nuts off. Over tightened lug nuts are pretty common if others rotate or install your tires.

Message to me is that the whole setup was not designed for robust and reliable service in the field and to check that it all is in working order before big trips and have an alternative to using their lug wrench.

Gary
 

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I too carry a real breaker bar with a real metric socket for the lug nuts. The factory joke of a thing bent on first use, and these lugs seem to self-tighten over time. It may cause an argument, but I coat them with anti-seize and torque them way under spec, because nothing is worse than being stuck on the side of the road jumping up and down on the lug wrench trying to loosen overtightened lug nuts.

One trick with the winch has been to use your foot to get the tire up the last inch or so, then the winch will lock in in place. Use just the winch, and it will click and skip and strip and not secure the tire. The winch design is less than ideal, in my view.
 
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I’ve split sockets in two with a breaker bar. On my old truck.

Here I was thinking our factory wrench looked too thick to split in two. So I was happy to just carry a pipe to slip over factory wrench.

Hummm...maybe I need to try impact sockets and breaker bar. But with everything made in China, what can we trust to not break in half?
 

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Another option for difficult lug nuts would be to keep a hammer and a manual impact driver, with the appropriate sized impact socket, in the van. (But don't blame me if you hit your hand with the hammer.) ;)
 

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I always carry a 2’ Breaker bar with an impact socket on it. Cheap money at HF and good insurance.
 

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After I removed the short leaf spring, the stock jack no longer gets the rear wheel completely in the air. 2014 136" 1500 gasser
 

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...Over tightened lug nuts are pretty common if others rotate or install your tires...
In my experience most lugs are very difficult to remove straight from the factory, especially if you wait until first tire replacement. I don't buy the no lube argument. It's just paranoia over lawsuits. With wheel bolts, I think the risk of wearing or galling threads in the hub and subsequent cost of repair is just too high. I swap rims every year for snow tires so they get checked and torqued at least twice a year. Without lube, that would be 40 removals with dry threads over years.

First thing I do with a new vehicle is remove the lug nuts and re-install with a bit of grease. Then, if you find yourself having to remove one on the side of the road it will come off with the factory wrench. I've been greasing for 30 years and never had a lug loosen.
 

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Could you please tell me the size of the socket you use? Thx!
You need a 21mm impact socket.

And I use 18" breaker bar and a pipe to be able to squeeze them into factory emergency kit.
It also fits the factory jack making it very useful addition.
I'd also recommend a torque wrench. 1/2" drive model with 150Ft/Lbs should be sufficient as the tires should be torqued to 133 by Fiat specs and 150 by RAM specs.

All of the above are very affordable at the Harbor Freight.
 
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