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I just bought a 3500 6 months ago, I had a **** of a time getting the wheel studs out. I used a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on the end, I got all wheels off except one, one wheel stud would not budge, I broke 4 breaker bars. I went to a tire shop to get all 4 tires replaced, the one wheel I couldn't get off, the tire guy hit the breaker bar at the socket with a big hammer and after a few attempts got it off with a pipe on the breaker as well. I wire brushed all the threads and anti seized the studs just to be safe for next time. This week I went to take the wheels off, and bolts were seized again, I broke my impact gun trying, I bought a new impact gun (750 ft/lb rated) and still wouldn't budge. A few big hits on the end of the socket and the new gun running 140 psi air pressure and I finally got them off. All threads were still clean not rusted, studs were torqued to 120 last time they were put on. In 30 years of working on cars, I've never seen this happen before. Usually a stud would break but these things are pretty beefy. This must me a common issue on these vans but I haven't found much on line. Anyone else have such a hard time?
Unfortunately, I'm in the same boat as you. I have a 2014 Promaster 2500 and the lug bolts have given me nothing but problems. I've used breaker bars, pipes and impact gun to work on this thing. I've cleaned them, put anti seize etc on it but like you, the next time I go to take them off again, I can't. I've probably broken almost 3 breaker bars since I've had this thing. I need to do the brakes badly but without being able to remove the tires I'm kind of SOL. Not to mention if during our travels we get a flat tire! A mechanic friend of my suggested converting it to studs/lugs but so far in my searches I haven't been able to find the wheel studs I would need. Have you had any luck figuring out how to manage this issue??
 
Unfortunately, I'm in the same boat as you. I have a 2014 Promaster 2500 and the lug bolts have given me nothing but problems. I've used breaker bars, pipes and impact gun to work on this thing. I've cleaned them, put anti seize etc on it but like you, the next time I go to take them off again, I can't. I've probably broken almost 3 breaker bars since I've had this thing. I need to do the brakes badly but without being able to remove the tires I'm kind of SOL. Not to mention if during our travels we get a flat tire! A mechanic friend of my suggested converting it to studs/lugs but so far in my searches I haven't been able to find the wheel studs I would need. Have you had any luck figuring out how to manage this issue??
Were the lugs tightened by a shop? I have had this issue on numerous cars and its always due to a shop overtightening the lugs. I have brought broken wrenches to shops and demanded they replace them and they do. Now I always tell shops to only tighten them to torque spec and if I have the time I try loosening the lugs in the parking lot of the shop with the tire changing tools. If I cant loosen them with the tire changing tools, they overtightened them.

I have started putting a small bit of anti-seize on the studs when i change the tires twice annually but it was because they started to show rust not because they were hard to remove.
 
If you lightly lube the studs and torque to spec with a torque wrench, then you should never have an issue with removal. I go to a shop that uses a torque wrench to tighten every stud / nut and I do the same at home and have never had an issue. If the shop does not lube, and just tightens them with an impact, that can be a huge mess.
 
I put a drop or two on the threads as I have done for 40 years. I will put anti seize on the cone if I have rims that the lugs/bolts hang up in. That snap you hear when the lug/bolt cracks loose is the bond between the cone and the rim letting go so that is where I put the anti seize. Some shops will not oil because that is how they are trained and technically they are not supposed to. If a wheel falls off...

73884
 
I hate to stereotype/generalize but asking the kids working the tire shop to torque to spec your lugs is like asking a snail to run a marathon, its hardly worth asking. The guys that have been "doing it awhile" work the counter. Its one reason I rotate/do summer winter changeovers myself. If the van needs work that requires a real mechanic that person might actually have a torque wrench/lug torque specs, and have a f* to give about your difficulties removing your lugs. Every time I tried removing a lug in the parking lot of a tire shop and told them they were too tight they looked at me as if i were speaking russian.
 
Yup I would never have a tire shop mount my rims unless absolutely necessary. I always use anti-seize and tighten the bolts till they feel "tight" never, ever a loose one in over 60 years of driving.
 
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