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I have read the many posts on insulation, but have not seen this mentioned before....has anyone used it?

http://www.lobucrod.com

It was mentioned on the Sprinter Forum.

Still confused :confused: guess it's good my PM hasn't been built yet!
 

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I have a sample. Reflectix on steroids. Aluminum skins are robust, interior is small-cell foam. Good looking stuff.

I have concerns about the durability of Reflectix because I made some cozies out of it last year--insulating containers for rehydrating dehydrated food. Moisture caused the outer surface to slough off and I was left with clear bubble wrap. I don't think this will do that.
 

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I am very skeptical of products that don't have a proven record and to have shown themselves to be durable, suited to the task, and can withstand the rigors of heat, vibration, moisture cold, etc. I have to say I am not willing to use any air puffed plastic sheet with a microscopic layer of mylar on it to insulate my van. Too much work, too much time invested and too likely to have to rip the van apart to pull it out when it fails. Plastics have a poor record in heat. I am in Arizona for the winters and see lots of 100+++ days before the summer sets in. We leave our house and contents and a few things outside. Plastic hoses have life of ONE summer, less if in the sun, elastic ONE summer, your underwear waistband expands once then its finished. Styrofoam and the plastic that milk jugs are made of ONE month. Now think. Your van is in NH where ours will sit some summer days, closed up, 90+ and the sun is shining. What temperature is that plastic insulation going to get to?? I'm going to guess 135++. It will fail. Perhaps an insulation product proven it the building industry is a better choice. Just saying!
 

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I have read the many posts on insulation, but have not seen this mentioned before....has anyone used it?
http://www.lobucrod.com
It was mentioned on the Sprinter Forum.
Still confused :confused: guess it's good my PM hasn't been built yet!
Thats an R value of 44 per inch. If it were true wouldn't all us home builders have been using it for years? Does this sound too good to be true? I'll pass, thanks
 

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Actually, the EZCool has a history in the engine compartment. It looks like the insulation under the PM's hood. If I choose to use this kind of stuff, I will use EZCool rather than Reflectix.
 

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Where does the 44 come from?
I multiplied the lowest given R rating (8.1) by the inverse of the thickness (3/16) to find the R value of an inch (=43.2)
The website also claims it is a good sound deadener but gives its weight at 2 lbs for 40 sq. ft IIRC. As lead sheet is the standard against which other products might be judged as deadeners I find that such a claim suspicious as well. What principle of acoustics did I miss getting my physics degree? Please buy it, test it, let us know how it works and report back after a few years in the heat. Use an IR remote thermometer to show your results now and later, they are cheap. You can get a free app to test for sound level too called Decibel 10th for the iPhone. Please report on the sound attenuation. I'm probably wrong.
 

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I am planning on installing pendaform wall panels when I pick up my promaster next week. Is there anything horribly wrong with putting fiberglass batt insulation behind it. It's just a work van not a conversion. What is the average depth of the support members. If I try to put in some 3 1/2" r13 in will it cause the panels to bulge?
 

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Not enough depth for the 3.5" batt, which would lose effectiveness if you forced it. I was measuring yesterday: about 1.5" ceiling, max 3.25" in the center of the side panels, about 2" in the upper cavities. Much less at panel edges. That's ignoring the bad rep fiberglass gets for moisture. Some people report it gets out not the cabin, but I'm not sure how it does that. Vibration?
 

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If those have you convinced I have no problem seeing you instal it. I did see one comment that insulation is like oil, everyone has a favorite and a reason for using it (my paraphrase). I want us to make informed choices so later we have a warm. or cool campervan that is quiet and safe. I am sure there are many ways to get to that. I will keep looking for the ideal product that has met the test of time. I have a bit over 6 months to explore the possibiliteis. Keep posting what you do, how it goes and what the results are. I'm not much for statements without substantiation so consider the measuring instruments.
 

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I have read the many posts on insulation, but have not seen this mentioned before....has anyone used it?

http://www.lobucrod.com

It was mentioned on the Sprinter Forum.

Still confused :confused: guess it's good my PM hasn't been built yet!
Hi,
This is just my 2 cents -- and probably worth just about that.

The insulation is 3/16 thick and is polyethylene foam -- this is likely good for about R3 per inch, or R0.5 for the insulating value of the 3/16ths of polyethylene alone. In other words, very little of the R value comes from traditional insulation approach of reducing conduction.

So, since they are claiming MUCH higher R values most of their claimed R value comes from the reflective layers. This ref gives some values for a reflective surface facing an airspace:
http://www.builditsolar.com/References/MILRvalues/MILRvalues.htm its way down at the bottom of the page.
They say about R3 for a 3/4 inch airspace facing a highly reflective layer.

I'm not sure how to treat the 2nd layer of reflective material, but I'd not be inclined to give it much extra benefit as its basically the back side of the first later (the poly foam essentially bonding the two layers together thermally).

So, maybe a real R value of 3.5 including the reflective layer benefit?
Seems a bit on the light side? (depending on your climate)

Some things that don't thrill me too much about it:

- If for any reason the reflective layers become not very reflective, your R3 reflective space becomes an R1 airspace. This could be dust or deterioration of the surface over time.

- The polyethylene is going to start going soft at about 140F.

- You would have to install the insulation such that it is spaced with a consistent air layer that stays there over time.

- It seems like it would be very hard to install the film as a good and well sealed vapor barrier to prevent moist van air from condensing water on the cold van skin.

-----
Again, this is just my 2 cents, but I still like the idea of spraying the inside of the van with polyurethane insulation -- either yourself with one of the kits or pay someone to do it.

This stuff insulates really well (R6 per inch). Its a vapor barrier and it gets into most of the crevasses well. It holds up to high temperatures well. It sticks like there is no tomorrow, so I think it won't be moving around.

There are some cautions -- if sprayed on in too thick a layer at one time, it can warp the van panels, if you don't mask really carefully you can make a BIG mess.

I'd like to hear what you decide on after completing your research.

Gary

Edit: Maybe the 2nd airspace should be given some more credit assuming that the insulation can be place with a consistent airspace on each side? So, maybe my R3.5 is a bit low -- at least when the reflective surfaces are nice and shiny?
 

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I read if you rub it on your head three times a day for a week it will start to grow hair! That seems like better use of it for me than insulation.
 
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