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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For those who may be planning on a window install, here's some pics of my project.

Mission: CRL windows to be installed at the back corners, both sides... 159wb PM

Progress: One side done!

Ribs removed... I noticed that on pictures of OEM windows, the back rib remains and the glass is in two pieces. CRL glass is all one piece...7' long!
P1080251.jpg

I made a template from 1/4" plywood. I cut it the size of the window glass, then transferred measurements to cut the hole. Figured it would be easy to just attach the whole template to the wall of the van and cut along the pattern. Worked great. Window fit on the first try.

P1080263.jpg

It was worth using a $20 piece of plywood to create a solid one piece pattern.
I drilled two 1/4" holes in center area and bolted the template in place so it wouldn't move while cutting.

It made the job a lot easier, and the shoe of the jigsaw rode on the plywood, so no scratching of the paint. The other side will use the same template (other side of plywood facing out- same pattern) and I just need to cut a piece off to fit over the track for the sliding door. Medium TPI metal cutting blade worked well.

I did remove and grind about 1/16" at one end of the top to match existing window, then painted on a thin coat of paint to avoid rust. Not sure if needed, because the seal is pretty tight, but can't hurt. Tough to paint the edge, but I got a thin coat on.

P1080259.jpg

P1080271.jpg

Inside view... window in place

P1080284.jpg

Outside view

P1080297.jpg

When I started researching windows, posts on the forum help me plan my install. I appreciate all who shared their work!

Other side? tomorrow!

Ed
 

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Thanks for posting this, mine was delivered today. Any other tips that come to mind please feel free to post!
No advice is too small. Up until I was ready to order I thought they were just bonded windows then I found out they bolt on. Have to research all over again.
Do you have links to any of the pages where you found info?

Nice job by the way, looks good
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for posting this, mine was delivered today. Any other tips that come to mind please feel free to post!
No advice is too small. Up until I was ready to order I thought they were just bonded windows then I found out they bolt on. Have to research all over again.
Do you have links to any of the pages where you found info?

Nice job by the way, looks good
Definitely a 2 man job to insert the window. I cut and prepped the hole, then my buddy came over to help lift and fit it in.

I think the clamping ring design is probably easier than the bonding. Seems like the trim ring is loose until you start tightening (evenly tighten around the edge, not all at once). A good #2 bit in a screw/drill works well.

Ed
 

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Hey Proeddie, did they supply screws with your window when you received it.
I unboxed it and was a little surprised there were none.
I've heard about no instructions so wasn't surprised about that.

Did you use self tapping or drill pilot holes?
Sorry for all the questions but one chance to get it right
 

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For what it's worth, I used ¾" self tapping screws when I installed my rings. Not CL windows but I think they are all pretty similar. I just bought a box of 100 at Home Depot. Don't forget to get a roll of 3/4" butyl tape!
 

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Kudos

Proeddie, that is some first class work there. Thanks for taking the time and sharing the knowledge. My PM is 100% set up for commercial door installations but it might be a smart move in a few years to buy a new one for work and convert the current one into a RV after it has depreciated. I am keeping my eyes out for great work and ideas like this.
 

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Another "I installed CRL windows" thread!

Please be absolutely certain you have cleaned up the metal shavings after you cut (even if you have them professionally installed). I cleaned very well and even washed and waxed the area after installation and I still found tiny rust specks in the paint. I'll have to buff and wax each area.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Jostalli, did you use an angle grinder or any type of power grinder?

I've read using one may cause problems if the hot metal gets on the paint, it may look perfect but then days or weeks later burn spots and rust appear
 

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Like the idea of making a template and bolting that on, was thinking about using the box it came in since it's heavy cardboard but now I'm rethinking that after all the stories of returned CRL windows, wouldn't be easy to find something to ship it back in if needed.
Maybe a cheap piece of plywood is a better idea
 

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I never installed one of these but I cut windows into hollow metal doors all the time. Bosch makes a nice jigsaw blade. I took this from the CRL website. It says no template needed. But like I said, I never installed one so I yield to one of you who has done so to tell me if this makes sense.



Catalog Number: FW383R


OEM 'All-Glass' Look with Concealed Frame
28% Dark Gray Glass
Fit Outside Stampings to Perfection
No Layout Required. Use OEM Interior Stampings for Cut Line
 

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I just went and took some quick measurements, if I use the factory stamp that leaves a 1/4 gap which in my thinking is a lot of room.
For the extra work it will be and being this is a first for me I'm going to use a template and then drill alignment holes to see how it lines up with the factory stamp, won't matter after I've placed the template but it will be good for learning
 

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I never installed one of these but I cut windows into hollow metal doors all the time. Bosch makes a nice jigsaw blade. I took this from the CRL website. It says no template needed. But like I said, I never installed one so I yield to one of you who has done so to tell me if this makes sense.



Catalog Number: FW383R


OEM 'All-Glass' Look with Concealed Frame
28% Dark Gray Glass
Fit Outside Stampings to Perfection
No Layout Required. Use OEM Interior Stampings for Cut Line
I second using the Bosch metal jig saw blades! Plus put something on the base of your jig saw to protect the paint of course. I used duct tape on the saw base and heavy masking tape on the van then traced the cardboard pattern onto the tape then cut thru the making tape. Definitely watch out for metal chips on the paint. The metal cuts like butter with the correct saw blasé.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I completed the second window yesterday. The slider door rail didn't make the job any easier... used a strip of 3/4" plywood to offset the shoe of the saw.... still a PITA!

A few notes....

A medium TPI blade (24 teeth per inch) worked better than a real fine blade (36 TPI). Mine were from the assortment pack at Harbor Freight and the medium cut metal blade worked best!

Bconno, a 1/4" gap is good. Allows for some adjustment on the glass alignment. You may need to go back and trim in a few spots. I did. Bottom line - try to make the hole perfect, but don't expect it to be when you're done. As long as the trim covers the cut no one but you will ever know!

Cutting on the factory stampings is not the way to go. The template worked much better. When I first bought the van, the dealer had a CRL window across from the slider installed for me. The installer cut on the factory lines and installed. The trim frame did not cover the cuts at the corners. On my cuts, no cut lines are visible... not bragging, but the template made a big difference.

I didn't want to cut the shipping boxes (just in case) and decided to use the 1/4" plywood. It made a sturdy template and I cut right along the wood edge. Making the template the actual sixe of the window glass made the alignment of the hole easy! 2 bolts on the cross frame kept it securely in place while cutting.

The plywood template allowed me to ride the saw shoe right on the wood. No masking required, except at the top edge, where the distance from the cut to the plywood edge was pretty close. (and at the bottom on the slider side)

The trim frame had all holes drilled in it. Be sure to align each screw so it catches in the slot provided in the frame. Almost missed on a few. No drilling needed on the frame - the screws are self tapping. Attempting to drill might damage the glass.

Use a brand new #2 Phillips bit in your power screwdriver. Otherwise some screw heads will get chewed up. They give you a few spares!

2 guys made it do-able. 3 would be better!;)

Ed
 

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Just curious, and without prejudice toward CRL windows, but has anyone purchased OEM windows (they must have an FCA/Mopar part number, since there exists a window version of the PM), and cut for and installed them? If so, how did that go?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Just curious, and without prejudice toward CRL windows, but has anyone purchased OEM windows (they must have an FCA/Mopar part number, since there exists a window version of the PM), and cut for and installed them? If so, how did that go?
Chris,

I researched it ans it was more expensive AND would just be bonded to the metal. You would see the metal cut on the inside. With these CRL windows, the clamping trim ring covers the metal edge completely (if you cut it right)

Plus like many Promaster parts they are hard to get!

Inside view, cuts covered

P1080289.jpg

Passenger side

P1080303.jpg

P1080315.jpg

Ed

ps. I will say that the CRL window tint and the tint in my OEM slider window are slightly different. CRL windows have a slightly darker black colored tint, the OEM windows seem to have a green-ish tint. They are pretty close.
 

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Do any of these open? They look like fixed glass. Don't they also make RV style with screens? I haven't gotten that far with research.
 
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