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Discussion Starter #21
I just tried to put a capacitor (PAC CSS12 Passive Noise Filter) inline from the driver fuse box to power up the camera and that didn't solved the issue. I'm running out of options to try at this point so unless someone who specialize in composite video signal chime in I might have to throw the towel on the factory camera and replace it with an aftermarket one.
 

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I just tried to put a capacitor (PAC CSS12 Passive Noise Filter) inline from the driver fuse box to power up the camera and that didn't solved the issue. I'm running out of options to try at this point so unless someone who specialize in composite video signal chime in I might have to throw the towel on the factory camera and replace it with an aftermarket one.
I was just about to suggest the same (trying a different camera) for a couple of reasons.

1) I dislike the current camera's point of view. I think the "bird's eye" view is useful for a lot of PM users such as delivery drivers who have to maneuver their PM into a loading dock, want to see their rear bumper and line it up exactly and not bump. BUT I'm used to other car's backup cameras where they point more "straight back". I get a better sense of how to "drive" backwards.

With this alternate camera, you could position it wherever you like (if you're like me and don't like the current view).

2) You could get perhaps a better camera. Like I said in an earlier post in your thread, I'm not that happy with what I'm getting out of my Uconnect3 in terms of backup camera. Maybe it's the camera (as opposed to the Uconnect) and thus with a replacement, I can choose a new one that's higher res.

I hope it works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I was finally able to make everything work and solve the backup problem by basically cutting the factory camera wire and solder an aftermarket one using the factory camera wire. You can also just run the wire of the aftermarket camera to the back of the car but for me it was not an option as there would be too much panel and hardware to remove since mine is a converted RV. I will update my first port soon for the complete project.


Edit: just saw I can't edit my first post so I'll post it below
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
How to replace the uconnect radio on a Promaster 2019 (and probably below) with an ATOTO A6 android head unit

Things you will get:

-All usual peripherals like aux in, usb, sd card reader, bluetooth phone and music player
-Navigation
-Backup camera
-Dashcam
-No flashing odometer
-Voice recognition (Alexa, Google assistant, etc)
-Any apps from the Play Store
-12v acc and reverse signal
-Working steering wheel controls


Things you will loose:

-Ability to set the time on the cluster (need to plug back old radio but if the car is supported it might be possible to do it using the app Carista from the play store).
-Uconnect DTC, although to read the code directly from the head unit screen you just need to connect a Bluetooth ODBII reader and use an app like torque or Carista from the play store.

Checklist:

-ATOTO A6 10in Pro A6Y1021PR Double DIN Android Car Navigation Stereo (any model should work but I used this one)
-Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
-Metra Radio Removal Tools
-Metra 95-6523 Dash Kit
-iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module
-iDatalink HRN-RR-CH3 Factory Integration Adapter
-12V DC Rectifier for Car Rearview Camera Auto Electric Power Rectification Kit for Rear View Camera (Optional)
-USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter
-ATOTO AC-4486 (pretty much any backup camera with a video RCA plug should work)
-ATOTO AC-44P1 (Optional)
-SD card (Optional)

Steps:

1. Remove uconnect radio
2. Connect the Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter to the white fakra connector
3. Connect the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to the male Mini usb on the grey adapter
4. Flash the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module as a Ram promaster 2018 Cargo van with automatic climate even if you have the manual climate control with the knob. Use the Sony XAV-AX5000 firmware to retain all steering wheel keys except the phone up and down. You could try other firmware to see if you can get all key working it's basically trial and error. It's best to use firmware of units that don't support weblink because the steering wheel control need to be converted into a resistance based signal.
5. Unplug the female WHITE 2 pin connector and plug it to the male RED connector of your CH3 T-harness. The male WHITE 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
6. Unplug the BLACK 2 pin connector of your CH3 T-harness. The female BLACK 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
7. Solder each corresponding wire of the Atoto unit to the harness corresponding wire following the maestro diagram: https://maestro.idatalink.com/maestro/images/mobile/wiring/genericRR_EN.svg - The Atoto model A6Y1021PR have a dedicated turn off button so feel free to connect the 12v acc wire of the unit to constant 12v if you want to be able to leave the unit running while the car is off and shut it manually.
8. For the steering Wheel control do not use the 3.5 mm jack. On the maestro there is a yellow/blue wire next to the 3.5mm adapter. Solder this wire to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire of the Atoto unit.
9. Run the wire around the dash to install the wifi/gps antenna and the external mic if you want to use it.
10. Connect the male end of the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to one of the usb female of the atoto unit to retain the factory usb plug near the steering wheel.
11. If you purchased the dash cam it must be connected to the usb on the back of the unit and not to one of the 2 additional usb wire. Insert an SD card in the front of the unit that will be used for recording.
12. For the rear backup camera you can use the supplied harness of the factory camera and run the wire yourself so it should work out of the box (if you have the extended wheelbase you will probably need to use an RCA extension cord). If you want to use the wiring of your existing factory camera which is much more convenient you need to remove the high mounted rear plastic cover to access the factory camera. In my case I just cut the wire because accessing the harness was too much trouble. Solder the camera power + to the red wire, - to the black wire, video signal + to the transparent wire, video - to the bare wire (shield). With this setup you will get a little interference when braking but it's not that bad. If you want even less interference use 12V DC Rectifier. Solder the car pos and neg to the IN of the rectifier and the camera power pos and neg to the OUT of the rectifier. The blue and green and blue wire from the factory camera are not used. I unscrewed the license plate mount from the camera in order to put the camera exactly where the factory camera was sitting. You can use some kind of bracket or hot glue to put it in place, or just mount it on the license plate if you prefer this location.
13. Connect the main harness to the Atoto unit along with the yellow RCA cable to the RCIN video input
14. Install the core of the unit and attach the metra bezel, after that connect the screen to the core.
15. After the unit is started to into setting --> steering wheel program and press reset. Then start mapping your SWC by clicking the button associated with the feature you want to map then the corresponding steering wheel key when it's flashing.

A few notes:

-There is no 12v acc signal from the factory harness although you could use a fuse from the fusebox, the 12v acc is generated by the maestro RR by reading the canbus and detect if the car is running. It then send a 12v signal through it's own red wire to emulate 12v acc
-Same for the reverse signal, the factory harness have no reverse signal. Maestro read the canbus and detect the reverse gear to send a 12v signal in one of the wire so you don't need to use the reverse light.
-Steering wheel control are canbus on this car to the maestro convert them into a resistance based signal
-If you want to read canbus data you can use any of those cheap bluetooth odbII reader and pair it with Atoto and use an app like Torque
-Like the factory camera the backup camera is running as soon as the car is started, but if for some reason you don't want that you can always wire it to the reverse light of the 12v reverse signal generated by the maestro unit.
 

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Outstanding, Vansibel!

Great writeup.

Thanks for doing all the serious work and research.
 

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How to replace the uconnect radio on a Promaster 2019 (and probably below) with an ATOTO A6 android head unit

Things you will get:

-All usual peripherals like aux in, usb, sd card reader, bluetooth phone and music player
-Navigation
-Backup camera
-Dashcam
-No flashing odometer
-Voice recognition (Alexa, Google assistant, etc)
-Any apps from the Play Store
-12v acc and reverse signal
-Working steering wheel controls


Things you will loose:

-Ability to set the time on the cluster (need to plug back old radio but if the car is supported it might be possible to do it using the app Carista from the play store).
-Uconnect DTC, although to read the code directly from the head unit screen you just need to connect a Bluetooth ODBII reader and use an app like torque or Carista from the play store.

Checklist:

-ATOTO A6 10in Pro A6Y1021PR Double DIN Android Car Navigation Stereo (any model should work but I used this one)
-Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
-Metra Radio Removal Tools
-Metra 95-6523 Dash Kit
-iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module
-iDatalink HRN-RR-CH3 Factory Integration Adapter
-12V DC Rectifier for Car Rearview Camera Auto Electric Power Rectification Kit for Rear View Camera (Optional)
-USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter
-ATOTO AC-4486 (pretty much any backup camera with a video RCA plug should work)
-ATOTO AC-44P1 (Optional)
-SD card (Optional)

Steps:

1. Remove uconnect radio
2. Connect the Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter to the white fakra connector
3. Connect the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to the male Mini usb on the grey adapter
4. Flash the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module as a Ram promaster 2018 Cargo van with automatic climate even if you have the manual climate control with the knob. Use the Sony XAV-AX5000 firmware to retain all steering wheel keys except the phone up and down. You could try other firmware to see if you can get all key working it's basically trial and error. It's best to use firmware of units that don't support weblink because the steering wheel control need to be converted into a resistance based signal.
5. Unplug the female WHITE 2 pin connector and plug it to the male RED connector of your CH3 T-harness. The male WHITE 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
6. Unplug the BLACK 2 pin connector of your CH3 T-harness. The female BLACK 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
7. Solder each corresponding wire of the Atoto unit to the harness corresponding wire following the maestro diagram: https://maestro.idatalink.com/maestro/images/mobile/wiring/genericRR_EN.svg - The Atoto model A6Y1021PR have a dedicated turn off button so feel free to connect the 12v acc wire of the unit to constant 12v if you want to be able to leave the unit running while the car is off and shut it manually.
8. For the steering Wheel control do not use the 3.5 mm jack. On the maestro there is a yellow/blue wire next to the 3.5mm adapter. Solder this wire to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire of the Atoto unit.
9. Run the wire around the dash to install the wifi/gps antenna and the external mic if you want to use it.
10. Connect the male end of the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to one of the usb female of the atoto unit to retain the factory usb plug near the steering wheel.
11. If you purchased the dash cam it must be connected to the usb on the back of the unit and not to one of the 2 additional usb wire. Insert an SD card in the front of the unit that will be used for recording.
12. For the rear backup camera you can use the supplied harness of the factory camera and run the wire yourself so it should work out of the box (if you have the extended wheelbase you will probably need to use an RCA extension cord). If you want to use the wiring of your existing factory camera which is much more convenient you need to remove the high mounted rear plastic cover to access the factory camera. In my case I just cut the wire because accessing the harness was too much trouble. Solder the camera power + to the red wire, - to the black wire, video signal + to the transparent wire, video - to the bare wire (shield). With this setup you will get a little interference when braking but it's not that bad. If you want even less interference use 12V DC Rectifier. Solder the car pos and neg to the IN of the rectifier and the camera power pos and neg to the OUT of the rectifier. The blue and green and blue wire from the factory camera are not used. I unscrewed the license plate mount from the camera in order to put the camera exactly where the factory camera was sitting. You can use some kind of bracket or hot glue to put it in place, or just mount it on the license plate if you prefer this location.
13. Connect the main harness to the Atoto unit along with the yellow RCA cable to the RCIN video input
14. Install the core of the unit and attach the metra bezel, after that connect the screen to the core.
15. After the unit is started to into setting --> steering wheel program and press reset. Then start mapping your SWC by clicking the button associated with the feature you want to map then the corresponding steering wheel key when it's flashing.

A few notes:

-There is no 12v acc signal from the factory harness although you could use a fuse from the fusebox, the 12v acc is generated by the maestro RR by reading the canbus and detect if the car is running. It then send a 12v signal through it's own red wire to emulate 12v acc
-Same for the reverse signal, the factory harness have no reverse signal. Maestro read the canbus and detect the reverse gear to send a 12v signal in one of the wire so you don't need to use the reverse light.
-Steering wheel control are canbus on this car to the maestro convert them into a resistance based signal
-If you want to read canbus data you can use any of those cheap bluetooth odbII reader and pair it with Atoto and use an app like Torque
-Like the factory camera the backup camera is running as soon as the car is started, but if for some reason you don't want that you can always wire it to the reverse light of the 12v reverse signal generated by the maestro unit.
I need the same check list for my 2012 Subaru outback without Harman Kardon and navigation receiver, but still have a corner dash speaker.
 

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How to replace the uconnect radio on a Promaster 2019 (and probably below) with an ATOTO A6 android head unit

Things you will get:

-All usual peripherals like aux in, usb, sd card reader, bluetooth phone and music player
-Navigation
-Backup camera
-Dashcam
-No flashing odometer
-Voice recognition (Alexa, Google assistant, etc)
-Any apps from the Play Store
-12v acc and reverse signal
-Working steering wheel controls


Things you will loose:

-Ability to set the time on the cluster (need to plug back old radio but if the car is supported it might be possible to do it using the app Carista from the play store).
-Uconnect DTC, although to read the code directly from the head unit screen you just need to connect a Bluetooth ODBII reader and use an app like torque or Carista from the play store.

Checklist:

-ATOTO A6 10in Pro A6Y1021PR Double DIN Android Car Navigation Stereo (any model should work but I used this one)
-Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
-Metra Radio Removal Tools
-Metra 95-6523 Dash Kit
-iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module
-iDatalink HRN-RR-CH3 Factory Integration Adapter
-12V DC Rectifier for Car Rearview Camera Auto Electric Power Rectification Kit for Rear View Camera (Optional)
-USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter
-ATOTO AC-4486 (pretty much any backup camera with a video RCA plug should work)
-ATOTO AC-44P1 (Optional)
-SD card (Optional)

Steps:

1. Remove uconnect radio
2. Connect the Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter to the white fakra connector
3. Connect the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to the male Mini usb on the grey adapter
4. Flash the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module as a Ram promaster 2018 Cargo van with automatic climate even if you have the manual climate control with the knob. Use the Sony XAV-AX5000 firmware to retain all steering wheel keys except the phone up and down. You could try other firmware to see if you can get all key working it's basically trial and error. It's best to use firmware of units that don't support weblink because the steering wheel control need to be converted into a resistance based signal.
5. Unplug the female WHITE 2 pin connector and plug it to the male RED connector of your CH3 T-harness. The male WHITE 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
6. Unplug the BLACK 2 pin connector of your CH3 T-harness. The female BLACK 2 pin connector will remain disconnected.
7. Solder each corresponding wire of the Atoto unit to the harness corresponding wire following the maestro diagram: https://maestro.idatalink.com/maestro/images/mobile/wiring/genericRR_EN.svg - The Atoto model A6Y1021PR have a dedicated turn off button so feel free to connect the 12v acc wire of the unit to constant 12v if you want to be able to leave the unit running while the car is off and shut it manually.
8. For the steering Wheel control do not use the 3.5 mm jack. On the maestro there is a yellow/blue wire next to the 3.5mm adapter. Solder this wire to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire of the Atoto unit.
9. Run the wire around the dash to install the wifi/gps antenna and the external mic if you want to use it.
10. Connect the male end of the USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter to one of the usb female of the atoto unit to retain the factory usb plug near the steering wheel.
11. If you purchased the dash cam it must be connected to the usb on the back of the unit and not to one of the 2 additional usb wire. Insert an SD card in the front of the unit that will be used for recording.
12. For the rear backup camera you can use the supplied harness of the factory camera and run the wire yourself so it should work out of the box (if you have the extended wheelbase you will probably need to use an RCA extension cord). If you want to use the wiring of your existing factory camera which is much more convenient you need to remove the high mounted rear plastic cover to access the factory camera. In my case I just cut the wire because accessing the harness was too much trouble. Solder the camera power + to the red wire, - to the black wire, video signal + to the transparent wire, video - to the bare wire (shield). With this setup you will get a little interference when braking but it's not that bad. If you want even less interference use 12V DC Rectifier. Solder the car pos and neg to the IN of the rectifier and the camera power pos and neg to the OUT of the rectifier. The blue and green and blue wire from the factory camera are not used. I unscrewed the license plate mount from the camera in order to put the camera exactly where the factory camera was sitting. You can use some kind of bracket or hot glue to put it in place, or just mount it on the license plate if you prefer this location.
13. Connect the main harness to the Atoto unit along with the yellow RCA cable to the RCIN video input
14. Install the core of the unit and attach the metra bezel, after that connect the screen to the core.
15. After the unit is started to into setting --> steering wheel program and press reset. Then start mapping your SWC by clicking the button associated with the feature you want to map then the corresponding steering wheel key when it's flashing.

A few notes:

-There is no 12v acc signal from the factory harness although you could use a fuse from the fusebox, the 12v acc is generated by the maestro RR by reading the canbus and detect if the car is running. It then send a 12v signal through it's own red wire to emulate 12v acc
-Same for the reverse signal, the factory harness have no reverse signal. Maestro read the canbus and detect the reverse gear to send a 12v signal in one of the wire so you don't need to use the reverse light.
-Steering wheel control are canbus on this car to the maestro convert them into a resistance based signal
-If you want to read canbus data you can use any of those cheap bluetooth odbII reader and pair it with Atoto and use an app like Torque
-Like the factory camera the backup camera is running as soon as the car is started, but if for some reason you don't want that you can always wire it to the reverse light of the 12v reverse signal generated by the maestro unit.
did you figure out the cluster clock
 
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