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U might ride out to KOA or other campground and check that connection.....i use something just opposite......u need male end into receptacle.....before trip


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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
U might ride out to KOA or other campground and check that connection.....i use something just opposite......u need male end into receptacle.....before trip
I know. It depends where you adapt. The adapter pictured in my previous post allows me to connect the van's 30 amp inlet to a standard 15 amp extension cord / 15 amp outlet. (The adapter on the right in the following picture). Using 15 amp circuit breakers from the electrical supply source, the 15 amp extension cord is fully protected from overload. I would use this, for example, parked at my sister's house, without a real 30 amp source. The 30 amp inlet is my only hole thru the sheet metal, so I have to adapt to that. (or leave a window cracked open for the extension cord.) Also have to be cognizant of and limit my power needs to avoid tripping the 15 amp breaker in the house.

The 25' cord (in the middle) will plug the van's 30 amp inlet to a standard 30 amp shore power outlet. The extension cord is heavier than a 15 amp cord, so it can handle the current up to the 30 amp breaker protection at the supply source. This is the normal configuration I would expect when plugging in to a campsite or generator.

The adapter pictured on the left just doubles my extension cord options. It will allow me to use the the center cable pictured AND still plug into a 15 amp outlet or extension cord. Extends my 15 amp reach when needed. Still only have 15 amps available to use, limited by the source circuit breaker.

The adapter you have pictured will allow you to use a 15 amp extension cord plugged into a 30 amp shore power outlet. I assume then you plug that into the 15 amp inlet into your van. Certainly another great option. Does it have overload protection? i.e. if you plug a 15 amp extension cord into a 30 amp circuit, the 30 amp source breaker would allow you to inadvertently overload the cord, if say, you had a 25 amp draw for whatever reason. Protection at the adapter would safeguard the cord downstream.

P.S. Love those Camco "Power Grip" products!



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The adapter allows going from 30 amp power source to 15 amp cord....it steps it down

Have male end on outside van goes thru wall....have 2.....i'll take pic tomorrow

I mainly use 2 ten foot extension cords but also carry 25' & 100' extension cords.....ya never know

all my appliances are 15 amp

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I have a retired state trooper friend who calls the color "Arrest Me Red". Not much chance of sneaking by a speed trap.
AMR is close to RAM 😁

Might be able to work something out with that !!

“Red Adventure Mobile” or RAM

ties in with your dodge “eclipse” story
 

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That's about where my mat and floor end at the slider. That little extra sticking out can be a pain when sweeping, and, believe it or not, even that little bit can matter in your layout. It would be easy to add til the floor almost touches the closed door. You can cut it off later, but you can’t add it later.
I used a 5’x10’ sheet of plywood (no visible joints) & the 10’ factory edge was positioned inline with the edge on the metal van floor (after the rear wheel well notch was cut out of the plywood & the front cab step down was scribed & cut off the 5’ front edge)

The metal van floor is pretty much inline with where the van floor & walls meet aft of the slider.

Photos of the floor & aluminum angle trim & van floor / Insulated Plywood floor edge & slider opening are on my build thread
 

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I know. It depends where you adapt. The adapter pictured in my previous post allows me to connect the van's 30 amp inlet to a standard 15 amp extension cord / 15 amp outlet. (The adapter on the right in the following picture). Using 15 amp circuit breakers from the electrical supply source, the 15 amp extension cord is fully protected from overload. I would use this, for example, parked at my sister's house, without a real 30 amp source. The 30 amp inlet is my only hole thru the sheet metal, so I have to adapt to that. (or leave a window cracked open for the extension cord.) Also have to be cognizant of and limit my power needs to avoid tripping the 15 amp breaker in the house.

The 25' cord (in the middle) will plug the van's 30 amp inlet to a standard 30 amp shore power outlet. The extension cord is heavier than a 15 amp cord, so it can handle the current up to the 30 amp breaker protection at the supply source. This is the normal configuration I would expect when plugging in to a campsite or generator.

The adapter pictured on the left just doubles my extension cord options. It will allow me to use the the center cable pictured AND still plug into a 15 amp outlet or extension cord. Extends my 15 amp reach when needed. Still only have 15 amps available to use, limited by the source circuit breaker.

The adapter you have pictured will allow you to use a 15 amp extension cord plugged into a 30 amp shore power outlet. I assume then you plug that into the 15 amp inlet into your van. Certainly another great option. Does it have overload protection? i.e. if you plug a 15 amp extension cord into a 30 amp circuit, the 30 amp source breaker would allow you to inadvertently overload the cord, if say, you had a 25 amp draw for whatever reason. Protection at the adapter would safeguard the cord downstream.

P.S. Love those Camco "Power Grip" products!



View attachment 66749
I have a very similar setup & location for my 30AMP shore power receptacle. Like your plan I adapt my 30AMP to 15amp at the shore power & run a 15amp cord into my house, or campsite, or Honda Generator.

I also carry a 30AMP to 30AMP cord

I have also drapped the cord around the drivers side mirror to remind me to remove the cord before taking off 🤪

If I build again, I might consider the shore power & the rear. I think there is a path inside the van so no holes could be cut.

Im pretty sure my 15amp cord would separate before my 30AMP would rip out of my sidewall, but not so much with the 30AMP
 

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Like your multiple cord and adaptors, lots of flexibility.....was concerned when u showed only part of ur stash.

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Discussion Starter #48
I used a 5’x10’ sheet of plywood (no visible joints) & the 10’ factory edge was positioned inline with the edge on the metal van floor (after the rear wheel well notch was cut out of the plywood & the front cab step down was scribed & cut off the 5’ front edge)

The metal van floor is pretty much inline with where the van floor & walls meet aft of the slider.

Photos of the floor & aluminum angle trim & van floor / Insulated Plywood floor edge & slider opening are on my build thread
Thanks, RV8R. As ThomD said, your build thread is a great resource. I reference it frequently, trying to keep ideas and plans ahead of the actual construction. Hate backtracking. Your bin storage rack / cabinet is genius. And I totally agree with your build logic...

Our Parameters were; 2 People Travel Machine / Keep it Simple / Queen Bed “Permanent & Comfortable” / Stealth Exterior Look / Electric 12v & 120v / Few Holes Penetrating the Van / Self Contained Toilet / Sink / Storage “easy to grab & take outside / Fridge “electric only & efficient” / Cooking Outside “primarily” / Serviceability / Efficiency
I haven't laid out my final flooring plan yet, but keeping the seams hidden is high on my priorities. I do have a biscuit joiner, which will help any butt end seams. And my top floor layer will be a Pergo type flooring, which should also help cover and reinforce seams.

Following thumbnails are from RV8R's build. Highly recommended!


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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Getting ready to drill holes in the sheet metal... I am using this 30 amp shore power inlet sourced from Amazon (in black). Since I overanalyze literally everything, let's start here.

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It comes with a plastic cover for the inside, which serves 2 purposes... it covers the energized contacts AND provides a cable clamp. Properly assembled, it would look like this, with the cover (white) sandwiched between the inlet body (black) and the van sheet metal. Typically installed with either sheet metal screws or bolts with lock washers / nuts. #8 stainless steel for either.

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Unfortunately, the hole for the assembled unit is a whopping 2 7/8", which brings the edge of the big hole really close (about 1/4") to the 4 small mounting holes. And, the unit itself is not completely sealed. (note the visible light around the edges and near the prongs)

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So I made this small adapter plate for the interior. By eliminating the white cover, I can get by with a smaller (2 1/8") hole thru the sheet metal. It also basically acts as a big washer, spreading the point load of the attachments screws over a larger path. (important in engineering) The outside edges are radiused to avoid a sharp edge pressing on the sheet metal from the inside. And finally, it leaves the ability to cover the energized contacts, clamp the cable, AND properly seal those visible air gaps.

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I have been noticing the step up thru the slider is a little significant without the footwell. Expect it to be worse with the added 1" of flooring. Was regretting not getting the factory grab handles until I came across proeddie's quick fix. Ordered some handles right away. Thank you, Ed! They should give you a commission.

A simple, yet elegant, install of a grab handle for people entering the van via the sliding door. :D This handle, plus the Carr super hoop step make it very easy to enter and exit the van.

Enjoy your PM!
Ed
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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
AMR is close to RAM 😁

Might be able to work something out with that !!

“Red Adventure Mobile” or RAM

ties in with your dodge “eclipse” story

AMRRAM or AMRAM...

There might be a few ideas. Acronyms or shuffled lettering. I remember the Pontiac "Can Am' in 1977. Pontiac tried to make a muscle car out of the LeMans, in the same vein as the Trans Am and Grand Am. The graphic for the "CAN AM" was just a cut up decal with shuffled letters from the Pontiac "ALL-AMERICAN", a show car for the bicentennial. Same exact font. Real original, GM!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Completed Phase 1 of the 30 amp shore power inlet installation. Marked where it should go (convenient location, clear of obstructions, relatively flat exterior surface), measured a couple dozen times to be sure, drilled a pilot hole from the inside. Last chance to change my mind. Drilled the 2 1/8" hole from the outside to keep a cleaner edge, trial fit the inlet, verified it straight (with reference to the trim, not the ground), drilled the 4 screw holes. I like the black, very subtle and blends in with the expanse of black trim. Final step for the day was to pull everything off, file the edges, and give all exposed surfaces a coat of Rust-Oleum. Will finish the install tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #54
Phase 2 of 30 amp shore power installation complete. Took off the flimsy foam gasket the inlet came with and replaced it with butyl tape. When screwed down, a very small amount of tape squished out from the edges, verifying the complete perimeter is sealed. Viewed from the inside, the plywood "washer" in place, edges and inner hole to be sealed. Wire is 10/3 marine cable (stranded).

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Also finished the ladder install. I have had a Sureco stainless ladder on all three of my van builds. Top hooks over the rear door, bottom screws into the sheet metal with two screws. 5 minutes. With well over a decade of combined use, never had any issues.

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Blast from My Past

While digging out the picture of my 1983 Dodge Ram B250, I stumbled across these four pictures... the ONLY documentation of that build. Back when 35mm film was our best option, and you were frugal with pictures because it cost money to develop and print them. The build had a fixed platform Naugahyde bed with added side window. 40 watts of Pioneer amplifiers feeding Jensen speakers. Fiberglass insulation covered with 1/2" ply and dark (walnut?) panelling with a few aux lights. Remnant shag carpeting. Super simple, very versatile.

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I got tired of the dark panelling after a few years. Tore it all out, used it as templates to cut new pieces from lighter (Birch?) panelling. Took less than a weekend and cost about $40. The lighter panels did make the van appear roomier. Ah, the good old days...

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Discussion Starter #59
Those look like Jensen 6x9 coaxials . . .
Good eyes! They are. Back when my hearing could tell the difference. Now I have a stereo only my dog can appreciate.

Glad you kept that shag!
Changing the carpet would have been a major undertaking... it was a long slow process to cut and fit around the seat posts, up under the pedals, etc. Aside from the muddy dog footprints in the picture, it held up well. But a very dated style.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Not sure what your plans are for finished flooring. I used the mat as a template and it worked great. Put tape across the underside of the holes, adhesive facing up. Get your mat lined up exactly where you want it and poke holes in the tape where the tie down bolts are (remove them first). That way they can transfer to your plywood.
Getting ready for the floor. There are really no original ideas in this van. Using the group's corporate knowledge / data base in every step. Will use the cargo mat as a template to transfer the shape to 1/2" PolyIso and 1/2" Baltic Birch. Removing the tie-downs with a Torx T40 bit, then marking the centerlines of the tie-down hole with RnR's upside down tape technique. (Thanks!!!) Got to be careful to not pull off the tape in the process.

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