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Discussion Starter #21
Step #1 - roof survey. I have a few 145" 1515 rails on hand. We use them vertically to launch high power model rockets. Put one in position on the roof to evaluate length... overhangs a little in the front. So, will have to cut a bit off, but still be happy with one piece side rails. Ordered 4 pair of Hein's excellent Promaster Roof Rail Attachment and L Bracket adapters. Once they are installed, I can determine the length of the crossbars and have them cut as well. I want to work on the roof using a platform on the rack to avoid any damage to the sheet metal from my stepping on it.

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Don't cut your rails until you know where the roof obstruction are. There have been a few "I didn't think that thru" moments when trying to put cross members in.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Are you installing a roof vent? if so which location?
Yes. Maxxair Deluxe 7500's. Two actually, front and rear. I like the option to have them turn opposite to maximize the airflow. I bought one of Hein's adapters for the rear, and as I currently understand, the front location won't need one.

Interestingly, my 1983 RAM B250 van did not have a fan. Camping in Florida after the insulation was in, never had condensation issues on the inside. Slept a couple nights in my 2018 GMC Savana in Illinois, albeit without insulation, and it was raining inside by morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Ha! That just made wonder if anyone has ever installed a roof vent while in a garage and then couldn't get out.
Or if they would document that they had. When I put the vent on the GMC, I expected to lose the ability to put in the garage. Was pleasantly surprised to find it still fit. Barely... and someday I imagine driving in with the lid up and having it hit. I still have the dents on my house from trying to fit two bicycles on a Yakima roof rack into the garage, having forgotten they were there. Need to get some of these...


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Discussion Starter #27
Don't cut your rails until you know where the roof obstruction are. There have been a few "I didn't think that thru" moments when trying to put cross members in.
Totally agree. The side rails are long enough to clear everything, and the cross rails can slide fore and aft. Once the rack dimensions are final, I plan to map out where everything goes before cutting anything... rails OR holes in the roof. I stole this picture from the DIY Roof Rack thread to visualize what I am trying to achieve. In addition to the two Maxxair fans, I would like to put at least six, hopefully eight, 100W solar panels on the top. Rear fan may have to be off-center, TBD.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

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Just trying to avoid the "oh crap" moment later on, like "I wish I could put a cross bar on, but the [email protected] roof vent is in the way". I can't tell from the pic if a cross bars would fit, but you get the point.
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Discussion Starter #29
Just trying to avoid the "oh crap" moment later on, like "I wish I could put a cross bar on, but the [email protected] roof vent is in the way". I can't tell from the pic if a cross bar would fit, but you get the point.
Ahhhhh, yes. Great visual aid!!! Thanks for adding the lines. I DO want front and rear crossbars for lights and cameras. I'll wait to cut the side rails, too. IIRC the rails in Hein's post the photo is from are 132", so I can add a couple inches if I need them. The front fan, in particular, will be a problem as its position is somewhat fixed. The aft fan can be moved a little forward, but that could limit my solar panel space. Longer rails will also help find other options for the panels. Definitely map it out before cutting ANYTHING.

The crossbars will fit between the side rails, which defines the side rail as the outside edge. I've seen some racks with crossbars that fit on top of the side rails, which would also give you a few more inches if they extend beyond the sides. I know the mirrors stick out the furthest, but I'm just not comfortable sticking out past the edge of the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
While waiting for the rack mounts to arrive, I started soundproofing. This is 80 mil ALLMAT, which I had previously used in the GMC conversion. While on THAT subject, let me again emphasize how much better it is to be able to stand up inside the van vs crouching, stooping, and being on your knees. I knew it would be more comfortable when finished and in use, but had not considered the added benefit of how much easier it would be DURING the process. The down side is, the extra height and roughly 2' of length will roughly double the amount of mat needed. I could probably get by with smaller pieces between supports. To stop the sound of a drum, you don't need to cover the entire skin, just touch it. The point of diminishing returns is achieved rather quickly.

I also love the swivel seats, not available in the Savana / Express line. I like to leave the passenger seat turned aft as a rest stop and to to review work in progress. As a safety feature, it must be turned around forward before the transmission will unlock from Park. Which is a small nuisance when I want to move it around in the shop by myself.

On a different subject, does anyone know what these plastic pieces are, near the floor on the aft side panels. They look like vents, and appear to go thru the skin of the body to the plastic lower trim. Part number 53380877.

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I lucked out there... have use of a commercial building with 12' tall doors, heated in winter, so conversion and storage will be out of the elements. My tools are currently at my house, though, so expecting a lot of back and forth trips as we get going. Or at least until winter, I can drive it home for work and back to garage when done.

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That’s a great looking van, and I’m envious of the garage. The door tracks are the first time I’ve noticed dual tracks to accommodate a low headroom dimension (door to ceiling height). It looks tighter than most — like maybe around a foot or so. I’m glad you posted the picture. I’ll never have that much room, but that door track should maximize what little I have. Thanks.
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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
The door tracks are the first time I’ve noticed dual tracks to accommodate a low headroom dimension (door to ceiling height). It looks tighter than most — like maybe around a foot or so. I’m glad you posted the picture. I’ll never have that much room, but that door track should maximize what little I have. Thanks.
That got me looking... the shop has two overhead doors, one on the gable end and one on the side. The ceiling and floor are obviously the same height, yet only one door (the gable end) has the dual track. That door opening ends up just a few inches higher than the side door. I assume it must have something to do with the header sizing to carry the weight of snow on the roof. The gable end can get by with a smaller header.

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Continuing progress on sound-proofing. One of my pet peeves with campgrounds is noisy neighbors. Hopefully the deadening mat will reduce that in addition to road / rain noise.

The "X" just forward of the wheel well marks where I intend to place my 30 amp shore power inlet. I planned the driver's side to hopefully reduce the chances I will drive off with the cable attached. I know some of us put a 15 amp inlet on the rear bumper / body so it will self-unplug as you drive away, but the 30 amp cable screws on. I plan to use the "drape the cable over the driver's mirror, dummy" technique as a further reminder.

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Lovely red. I see so few red PMs on the road or even here on this forum.
 
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U can get 10' extension cords and an 30 amp adapter

also I put 2 plugs in....
I use one for 30 amp which usually for air conditioning
The other plug is110 which I run tv and misc

I've only been to one KOA that had no 110 hookup
also Canada has reduced rates for only 110 hookup areas....pretty cool set aside usually sparsely filled.....i was only one in it at niagara falls and shower & laundry were close by

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
U can get 10' extension cords and an 30 amp adapter

also I put 2 plugs in....
I use one for 30 amp which usually for air conditioning
The other plug is110 which I run tv and misc
Yup, have one. Not planning an AC unit, but 30 amp will allow me to run a couple 15 amp devices and still charge batteries, etc. If I run the 15 amp extension cord with adapter, I will just have to be frugal and limit what gets run simultaneously, but it is a great option to have.

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