Ram Promaster Forum banner

121 - 140 of 163 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Just an observation,

The Webasto petrol and diesel dosing pumps are the same style, metal on metal pump, the dose amount must be different.

Petrol isn't much of a lubricant, so I'm skeptically that kerosene will wear out the pump faster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
Wrapping up this install,

Used 40"x72"cargo blankets with a 72' zippers for the front and rear curtains.
Put a roll up flap in the curtain behind the passenger seat for the heater.
Moisture is controlled by exchanging the air.

This setup has served "me" well.
It's basic, cheap and effective.

[url=https://postimg.cc/s1Cnv6VH][/URL]
 

·
Registered
2014 Ram Promaster 2500 159" diesel
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
Diesel fuel tank with gas tank grommet being tested for install on Chevy express. The old heater from my promaster will be in the top opening with exhaust and intake straight out the back with a stainless steel cover. The fuel pump is not installed just for show and to see if it will work. The back door will need to be remudeled a bit for the heater to fit. The fuel tank tilts for easy fueling. The nylon fuel line that came with my grommet kit fits nice and tight on the fuel pump so no need for clamps.

http://postimg.cc/4m0sDbLY
 

·
Registered
2014 Ram Promaster 2500 159" diesel
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
Some things I learned about reinstalling my PM Barking heater into another van. I just barely have enough room to make the 90° turn for the heat duct there was plenty of room to move over but holes were drilled. One other is that I stacked the install, fuel tank, pump and the heater on top in this type of install you will need a check valve as after driving about the fuel line drains and it takes up to three restarts to fire up. The exhaust is loud without pipes. I have modified short 90° emt conduit to put on the exhaust and intake so the exhaust and intake point down.
Pictures added
https://postimg.cc/gallery/11t9ifp1i/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Great idea.


I wonder how did you seal it on the bottom and how did you secure the spacer on the floor (sealant/glue/fasteners)?


Using the Webasto install manual as a reference, diesel heater warm air outlet can be pointed from 0° to 90°.
I cobbled together a spacer to get me from a negative angle to 0°, plus the spacer gives me height to get over the lower rear bar on the seat base.
http://[url=https://postimg.cc/tsBz...g.cc/tsBzWtPv/20190106-150818.jpg[/img][/url]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Great idea.


I wonder how did you seal it on the bottom and how did you secure the spacer on the floor (sealant/glue/fasteners)?
If I remember correctly I just used long large sheet metal screws that went into the 4 countersunk holes.

The smaller holes are where the heater screws into.

For a sealant I used https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/DS-130/Duct-Seal-Compound-1-lb-Pugs#, mainly because I was unsure of the temperature, I probably should have used silicone or something similar.

Temperature in the hole is a non issue with the 2k heater, the rubber fuel line is like .75" from the exhaust.

I don't foresee anything going wrong with the mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Thanks!


If I understand correctly, looking from the bottom up (outside of the vehicle), we would see a small wooden box inside a metal opening with hoses going out(down) and it is exposed to the outside conditions (dust, water spray, fumes etc).
Did you somehow treat the "inside" of the spacer and the seam between the box and the edge of the floor opening?

If I remember correctly I just used long large sheet metal screws that went into the 4 countersunk holes.

The smaller holes are where the heater screws into.

For a sealant I used https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/DS-130/Duct-Seal-Compound-1-lb-Pugs#, mainly because I was unsure of the temperature, I probably should have used silicone or something similar.

Temperature in the hole is a non issue with the 2k heater, the rubber fuel line is like .75" from the exhaust.

I don't foresee anything going wrong with the mount.
 

·
Registered
2014 Ram Promaster 2500 159" diesel
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
When I installed my heater I used a deep weatherproof metal elec box. I just used a single gang but that needs a lot of gutting so a 2 gang would work better a deep box will raise the heater lust above the floor mat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
When I installed my heater I used a deep weatherproof metal elec box. I just used a single gang but that needs a lot of gutting so a 2 gang would work better a deep box will raise the heater lust above the floor mat.
Thanks for the idea.

I have a few questions:
Do you have pictures of your installation or can point us to the box you've used?
Did you modify the box to "level" the heater?
How did you secure and seal the box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
Thanks!


If I understand correctly, looking from the bottom up (outside of the vehicle), we would see a small wooden box inside a metal opening with hoses going out(down) and it is exposed to the outside conditions (dust, water spray, fumes etc).
Did you somehow treat the "inside" of the spacer and the seam between the box and the edge of the floor opening?
From underneath you would see a hole in the metal floor and the hole in the wooden block. Holes are the same size.

When I decided to use wood I figured it was best to leave the hole in the wood plain, at the I was thinking was any treatment would be exposed to heat.

I applied a thin coat of the sealant to the wood and floor metal, filled the valleys in the floor with the sealant, slowly tighten screws to get a seal. If you look at the picture that grey goop seals the wood to the metal. The heater mounted plate to the top of the wood connection was sealed also.

That sealant is thick and doesn't "flow" very well, if I was to do it again I would just use the butyl putty like the roof vent.

Nothing is coming through.
 

·
Registered
2014 Ram Promaster 2500 159" diesel
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
Thanks for the idea.

I have a few questions:
Do you have pictures of your installation or can point us to the box you've used?
Did you modify the box to "level" the heater?
How did you secure and seal the box?
I see the google pic's in my Barking Heater thread are gone. I'll look for copies but the standard box raises above the floor mat, the deep box will raise above the seat base bar. I used built up cork gasket material for the tapered shim and RTV as a sealant. Mount everything to the heater that you can and then drop through the floor like a sink install. How did I mount it, it wasn't good so your on your own there. The double gang gives you more mounting options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #132
...cut... I used built up cork gasket material for the tapered shim and RTV as a sealant. ...cut...
Did you shim the box to level out the heater?
Shoot, I could have used RTV, didn't even think about that product.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,480 Posts
I replaced my 10 liter parking heater fuel tank that I had temporarily mounted on the rear door last winter with a 5.5 liter one under the hood (thanks for the tip Phil) today. I still have to reroute the fuel line but I believe it will work out just fine.
58650
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
Egad man how many of those vans with the tank do you have? I count 2 already.
BTW nice instal. Any way to use a custom made metal band and ditch the temporary looking zip ties? Did that tank have mounting holes?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,480 Posts
RD you need an eye exam! Aren’t there any good optometrists on the Seacoast??
Plastic ties are better than duct tape (I’ve been told, I don’t know personally, of course)?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26 Posts
Another install

Well, this took the cake for the most complicated project I've attempted on the PM so far. Thanks to everyone who posted so far, it has helped me through the struggle. The heater is running and it's getting over all its smells.

Went with a 8kw unit all metal on ebay for around ~$180. Shipped from Canada i think and arrived within a week in a torn up box.

I also paired the little keychain remote (for anyone stuck just hold the UP arrow on the main LCD for 5 seconds after putting in the A27 battery into the key fob remote) with the lock and unlock button (off/on).

How about that most complicated LCD panel ever?
It started off with error 06 i think. The fan would not spin. I opened up the unit and discovered a loose wire in one of the connectors. After that, I managed to make it work.

The plan was to put the tank behind the galley/cooktop drawers/cabinet. This took some work getting it to fit.


The main unit would fit snugly behind the main seat.

Only problem: I had to make it sit sideways because there's a giant support beam directly underneath the spot the main unit sits.


A few things I changed from the original kit: added 3m fire block sealant (FB136). beefier fuel lines from Advanced Auto parts. Nicer hose clamps from Lowes. Silicon RTV sealant for the fuel tank connector. and fiberglass header wrap from Amazon with metal zip ties for the heat sensitive areas. a little flashing tape where the emergency brake line runs 1-2" from the exhaust tube below.

Do you have any issues with the Diesel smell with the tank inside?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
638 Posts
It's only a matter of time before Webasto or Espar copy this design,
Air & Water Integrated Parking Heater
That's a game changer for sure! My webasto dual top is super expensive and big (because it has a tank). This is cheap and small, but not sure how hot the water can get if it doesn't have a tank. Instant hot water requires a lot more than 7kw. You might get luke warm water.

Too bad the water lines are on the bottom which means either routing your water lines under the van, or elevating the heater into the living space.
 
121 - 140 of 163 Posts
Top