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As you may have noted from my build thread, I have a full "basement" with drawers under the rest of my build.

I have built drawers and they do go between the wheel wells. The drawer space provides for two 24" x 96" areas, plus another drawer area out the passenger slider.

Rear drawer area: (table stored on one side in this picture... usually another drawer)
Drawers are 2' x 4' and the front drawers slide in in front of the back drawers



Side door drawer and storage space: (15" x 48" drawer) the space to the left of the drawer is where we keep two folding camping chairs.



Obviously, these drawers are NOT 12" high. The joists are 4 1/2", so the drawers are a bit less in height.

An added benefit of the extra 6" in floor height is that the couches are only 14" high plus 4" cushions, making the seating height 18" which is what most standard seating is!

The amount of additional storage space is really useful to us, and at 5'5", we don't miss the overhead space. This storage allowed us to make much shallower upper cabinets for a wide open feeling inside the van.

I realize that this is not exactly what you're thinking about, but it may spark some ideas for a drawer-ed area in your build!
 
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Window trim

On the drivers side window (only one directly in the middle of a wall) I trimmed out the window with a frame to match the wall level. I took a few ideas I've seen in others builds and merged some of the details.

1/2" birch for a frame with 6mm corner gussets to fill in the gap around the motion window frame.





and the final install.
Looks good, I think I will copy that. What did you apply on the wood to where it touches the van metal? I was thinking maybe a double tape for that would work, coupled with screwing it to the outer wood panel
 

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Discussion Starter #125
[Looks good, I think I will copy that. What did you apply on the wood to where it touches the van metal? I was thinking maybe a double tape for that would work, coupled with screwing it to the outer wood panel
You could use some 3m tape on the wall to secure it, I didn't.

I found that by making the trim ring fairly tight to the window trim it stayed in place. Then because the wall panel is curving out at that location between the top and bottom the panel is actually pushing the trim ring in against the wall under pressure. So I just screwed the wall panel to the trim ring on the final install and everything has stayed nice and tight thus far.
 
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Ceiling panels

Next up is fitting the ceiling panels in place. (I already ran the little wire I need, will post about that later). I'm using 5x5 Russian birch for the walls and ceiling
Where did you find 5x5 plywood at? I did not even realize they made 5x5, I’d love to repeat that and not use 4x8. Good job on your build
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Where did you find 5x5 plywood at? I did not even realize they made 5x5, I’d love to repeat that and not use 4x8. Good job on your build
Up here in the Seattle area I got it at Dunn Lumber. It's called Russian Birch ply (comes in metric sizes) and 5x5 panels.
 

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Looks good, I think I will copy that. What did you apply on the wood to where it touches the van metal? I was thinking maybe a double tape for that would work, coupled with screwing it to the outer wood panel
Where I bought my 5x5 was a cabinet supply store. The 5x5 is a 5x10 cut in half. I used a 5x10 in my floor
 

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Discussion Starter #129
With winter here in the PNW, I started a few projects that I collected on my list last summer. First up was a dish organization solution for my upper cabinet. Just some 1/4" birch ply and glue and staples.

 

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Discussion Starter #130
Next I replaced my inverter. I started out with a Modified Sinewave 1500W unit. But found that my induction stove would not run on it. As I really didn't have many 110v uses other than the stove I figured I might as well upgrade to a puresine model. I did some testing with a kilawat meter and determined that 1000W would be enough for my needs. So I picked up this unit from KISE.



The unit was almost exactly the same size as the old one and fit into the same mounting location with the addition of 4 new holes lined up with the new feet locations. Whew, that was a worry as I not so smartly made my cabinet fairly custom to the inverter size. Lucky for me it all worked out fine.

 

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Discussion Starter #131
Following some leads from others here I decided to add a door light. I took the factory dome light from above the slider door, hacked it apart and removed the wiring connector from the back of it. Now I can re-use the factory plug and harness to make things easy. Then I routed it down the pillar into my small box, added a switch so that one way is always on, one way is switched on by the slider door and then you can turn it off as well. I wired all this up to a super bright yellow LED light and now I have a night time bug light for entry. :)





 

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Next up I'm working on the upper cabinet over the galley area. This one requires a bit more "fitting" if you will.




The plan is to "hang" it from the corner strip on the ceiling with 4 rivnuts and 1/4-20 bolts. Then secure the lower back edge with sheet metal screws into the horizontal rib behind the wall paneling. Hopefully that's enough, but we will see. I could also pickup one roof rib if needed in the center top, but had not planned to.

As I told my wife, it's for storing potato chips, not bowling balls :)

I'm going to put 2 doors with top hinges and gas struts to hold them up.
Great job and thanks for sharing. This is exactly what I am faced with now and its a bit mind bending. You have given me enough to go with. I will start posting I have a 136 WB also. Thanks!
 
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