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It’s easy to improve the poor quality factory sound system. I wanted to keep the factory system to keep costs down and not to mess with all the up fit mess when adding a new head unit with steering wheel controls, rear camera, and other stuff. (Has been discussed in depth in another thread)

I first added rear speakers and switched out the fronts with 6.5 inch speakers. That was an improvement, but I was still lacking significant low end. I wanted to avoid adding a new head unit and amp due to the costs as well as the hassle. I decided to tap into the rear speaker wires and add a powered sub woofer. There are plenty of choices for these, I went with a Kicker 8 inch powered subwoofer. It fit nicely under my seat, is super small, and is powered about right considering I am sticking with the stock head unit that has 20 watts max per channel. (That isn't much) This upgrade eliminates any computer system issues and for the most part is just tapping into rear speaker wires, power wire, ground wire, and a remote turn on. Super simple and a low power requirement.

Everything went super easy. Since I had the upfitter option I was able to tap into everything at the passenger B pillar and a short run to under the seat was all that was needed. Some loose wires in pics...that's because I am running swivel seats and I need some slack. Would highly recommend this upgrade if you have 4 speakers and looking to fill in the sound a bit more. For around $200 bucks its a cheap upgrade and you keep all your factory stuff. Pretty much plug and play with no computer issues.

It isn't going to give you HUGE base, but more than enough for a nice sound. If you want big sound your going to need to do a head unit change and amplifier...the difference of a thousand if not thousands j not to mention the technical challenge of wiring with the proper control module if you have rear camera and steering wheel controls. Done that before on a different van...but I did not see a need for that in my van. I like stock...keeps thieves away from the van. This particular sub is super small so it would fit anywhere and has a very sturdy grill cover...so it's not going to get damaged easily if on your wall or under a different seat. You can basically install it anywhere. I would not recommend a 10" powered sub, I think that would be to much bass over a stock radio set up.



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very nice!I agree that a powered sub makes all the difference.
Mine is the UC3 with upfitters b'pillar plugs active.
a a pre-owned JBL powered sub bought on CList for $70 and wired the same way you did yours.,but I have no rear speakers.
Upgraded front 6.5's and the system sounds fantastic. Add a powered sub. youll love it.
 

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Thanks, slamit06. I am postponing UC5 mods to the end of the build, but this looks perfect! Do you have factory swivel seats?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, slamit06. I am postponing UC5 mods to the end of the build, but this looks perfect! Do you have factory swivel seats?
No I have the ones from Canada...low profile ones. (the super expensive ones) I debated on ordering factory but also wanted heated seats...and wasn't sure if I was going to put batteries under the seats. I did not so I should have ordered the factory swivels, but the heated seats are kinda of a nice luxury for those cold days when surfing.
 

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Looks good. I'm planning on doing the same thing. The same kicker powered sub, and two 6.5 pioneers in the rear pillars. I also have the upfit connector and the U5. So if I buy the tyco plug and pins, wire 14/2 speaker wire from upfit to each rear speaker, then splice a wire into one of the rear speaker wires for the sub, that will work? Mainly trying to figure out how to add the powered sub in terms of wiring.

Thanks,
 

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I just ordered the Kicker sub mentioned above. I too am interested in the power connections, hoping that the upfitter panel has a suitable switched power source. I have already added rears so that will be the simple part of the install. If anyone knows of the correct method to connect the power supply at the upfitter port, please share. In the meantime I will search it up! as the kids say.
 

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I just ordered the Kicker sub mentioned above. I too am interested in the power connections, hoping that the upfitter panel has a suitable switched power source. I have already added rears so that will be the simple part of the install. If anyone knows of the correct method to connect the power supply at the upfitter port, please share. In the meantime I will search it up! as the kids say.
I found the install manual and it looks to be a very simple install.

https://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/powered_subwoofers/hideaway/2011_Hideaway_RevM.pdf


It looks like it doesn't require a switched power source, like the ignition. But rather simply connecting directly to the battery and the chassis. The unit senses power from the rear speakers and turns on the sub automatically. I will report back once I've received the sub (from amazon) and have tackled the install. To the Canadians out there, I ordered from Amazon.com and got a pretty good delivered price.
 

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When you say you ran the sub off the rear speakers, what do you mean? I have four Alpine 6.5s I just bought and a recycled 8" Alpine self contained amp/sub I want to wire up. Did you run wires two wire off the up fitters kit for each left/right speaker and "T" that to the rear speakers and to the sub inputs?
 

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Any more on this? I'm at the install phase and a bit stuck.
I installed this about 2 weeks ago, it took about 90 minutes. I installed under the passenger seat with factory swivel and it was very tight. So much so that I didn't even strap it down, it's held in by friction. I will eventually tie it down.... eventually.

I ran positive power source directly to the van battery using the supplied wire and fuse. I connected the ground to the ground in the upfitter connector I was already using for my Thule retractable step.

For the audio in, I simply spliced the rear speaker wires in the upfitter port and connected as per the instructions. I also wired in the audio/bass volume control and mounted it in the panel above the cup holders.

Remember that the Auto-Turn on switch needs to be set to DC. See white arrow in pic.

It has certainly improved the depth of sound and fills the in bass. I do recommend this for ease of install with a factory stereo and the price was very good.

One issue I am having pertains to my battery. I have been fighting with my dealership to replace my battery due to low voltage... the alternator has already been replaced. The issue I'm having is when I turn up the stereo to say 30, and the subwoofer is working, it cuts out (meaning the power light on sub turns from blue to red. According to the trouble shooting guid I believe this is due to low voltage coming from the battery to the sub.

Shaun
 

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ShaunB, Have you compared voltage at the battery to the voltage at your sub? My guess is the positive lead to your sub might be too light for the distance traveled.



I Installed a 10" Rockvillle sub a few months ago similar to what others have done. I have an aftermarket swivel seat and if I had to do it over I'd go with the 8" or a different brand. The 10" Rockville was a very tight fit, and the downward facing mounting points made it a PITA to get in there. I ended up having to build custom aluminum brackets for it, but it turned out nice (It's a little dusty at the moment from my conversion build). For power I went directly to the 50amp outfitter source plug in the pillar. It's set to turn on/off automatically with the radio so it works perfectly.

My van is a 2015, with the UC5, so I had to make a trip to the dealer after the install to get the back speaker leads turned on. After giving them a crisp $100 bill for 2 minutes of work I was out the door with a working sub.
 

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Is everyone running 14/2 to the rear speakers?

What size wire did you use to power the amp?

If you’ve got 6.5 (As I want to install in the rear) can you share a picture of how you mounted it? Mine seem to be too big for the upper rear doors or to fit in the corners?
 

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Is everyone running 14/2 to the rear speakers?

What size wire did you use to power the amp?

If you’ve got 6.5 (As I want to install in the rear) can you share a picture of how you mounted it? Mine seem to be too big for the upper rear doors or to fit in the corners?
Thanks PMGIA, since my post yesterday I have fixed my battery issues and the subwoofer is working as intended. I agree that long wire runs could be the issue but in my case it was a faulty ground on the van's electrical system.

See my other post for the solution.....post #15 https://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81601&page=2
 

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ShaunB, Have you compared voltage at the battery to the voltage at your sub? My guess is the positive lead to your sub might be too light for the distance traveled.



I Installed a 10" Rockvillle sub a few months ago similar to what others have done. I have an aftermarket swivel seat and if I had to do it over I'd go with the 8" or a different brand. The 10" Rockville was a very tight fit, and the downward facing mounting points made it a PITA to get in there. I ended up having to build custom aluminum brackets for it, but it turned out nice (It's a little dusty at the moment from my conversion build). For power I went directly to the 50amp outfitter source plug in the pillar. It's set to turn on/off automatically with the radio so it works perfectly.

My van is a 2015, with the UC5, so I had to make a trip to the dealer after the install to get the back speaker leads turned on. After giving them a crisp $100 bill for 2 minutes of work I was out the door with a working sub.
Johnny,

How did you connect your sub to the b pillar power? Did you buy the correct connector? Did you also ground it here?
 

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TahoeMatt, I simply cut the connector off the +/- plug and then butt sliced both leads to the sub. I have a house battery in the back of the van, so I didn't foresee any future use for that plug.
 

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tried to run my sub signal wires to the speaker - no go. It seams these wires run between the outer wall and the inner fender wall. I could not get the wires into the van. They may go to under the hood?... more to come. I have a Travato class B van the up lifter box is hard to get too.
 

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I am trying install the same kicker subwoofer. I was able to install the speaker wires in the b pillar upfit connection and activate the rear speakers on the factory system. The kicker sub is turning off and flickering red and then restarting. It stays on if the volume is low and gain is low. I hooked up the power right to the battery and negative to the chassis. Do you need to have rear speakers installed to have the sub work or can you just use the sub wires only in the upfit connection. This is the only thing I can think of that the sub is not getting the signal continously because there are no rear speakers installed?
 

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I installed my sub exactly as you and had no issues. It sounds like you may have a power issue. The sub is drawing to much current.
 
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