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I am looking to add my inverter that I had in my chevy but not sure if it will void any warranty or the system can handle it. the stock alternator is rated at 190'ish. possible to add a 2nd battery to offset the draw load. I plan on running a bench grinder, and shop vac
 

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I am looking to add my inverter that I had in my chevy but not sure if it will void any warranty or the system can handle it. the stock alternator is rated at 190'ish. possible to add a 2nd battery to offset the draw load. I plan on running a bench grinder, and shop vac
I would get a quality high capacity deep cycle battery and run it off that. I have two lithium (LiFO) batteries that I run many things off of. They cost more but will pay for themselves easily in # of recharges you get out of them not to mention that they don't "run down" like a wet battery, they just go full power until they quit. And they are 1/3 of the weight which makes them truly portable!
 

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Hi occs,

Just added a 12 V 100A deep cycle battery that is simply hooked to the main battery located under the driver's feet. Well, it is not directly hooked to the battery, a "Voltage Sensitive Relay" and fuse is in between the two batteries, to make sure I don't discharge the main battery when the motor is off. Also added a solar panel. Paid big bucks to have it installed, but if I would have know how simple it is, I would have done it myself.

I got the 220A alternator, but according to the guy that did the job, the stock alternator would have done the job.

If any interest, I could do a more detailed topic on that subject.
 

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yes I would love to see a more detailed write up. pics would even an added bonus if you have them.
thanks jeff
 

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thanks, what did it cost you to have it done if i may ask
I was 69 bucks an hour and the guy was doing a lousy job. 3 hours and a half later, all he had installed was the solar panel (four screws) and a couple of wires. I told him I would do the rest.

Will probably take pictures tomorrow and will post on the "How to" section.
 

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Finally finished my inverter install. I did 2 deep cell m27 paralleled to a 200 amp isolator installed behind drivers seat. I ran 4/0 welding cable to my 6k watt with 12k watt inverter. Installed 30 amp 6 fuse board for led interior lights, amber exterior stobe led lights, subwoofer and USB sockets. Ran 1/0 welding cable from isolator to front, back batteries, ground and all the way up to the alternator. I also have an RV outlet outside for shore power that runs a trickle charger and outlets for interior use. The outlets have both inverter and shore power side by side. For fun, I did LED voltage display for both front, back and alternator power. This van is fun to work on. I was able to get the dealer to look up service manual as I was having a hard time with the alternator isolation. There is a small lug about 10" from the alternator lug that catches the starter. I was able to hypress lugs on all connections to retain factory connections if I need to restore it to original. I know it's a lot of work to microwave my lunch, but my lady is a GOOD cook! Hope this helps anybody thinking about an inverter install.
 

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....cut...... I ran 4/0 welding cable to my 6k watt with 12k watt inverter. .....cut.....
Is that a 6,000 watt inverter with 12,000 watt surge? If so, why so large? I've never seen one that large used for a camper van.

I know it would take one nearly that size to start a typical RV air conditioner but most people don't normally run AC off batteries because they discharge too quickly. Just curious about your application.

By the way, if you don't mind me asking, what type, brand and or model of inverter are you using? An all-electric camper interest me a lot and a large inverter would have to be part of it.
 

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Yes, 6000 with 12000 watt peak, Ebay, $385. This is a electrical service van. I run vaccums, core machines, bench test lights, back feed buildings during service changes, ect. I have run inverters on my work vans for years. Why so big? Cuz it will run anything with a tail for a substantial amount of time with 2 large batteries. I also run an inverter and generator in my motor home. Inverters is quite and runs the TV during travel, generator if I need ac.
 

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Hey Sparky, you obviously have a lot of experience with inverters, I wonder if you wouldn't mind helping me with a problem I am having. If so...


I have auxiliary batteries but they are lithium ion (LiFePo) which require a special 14.6v smart charger, so you can't recharge them directly off the alternator. So I set up my system to charge the aux batts with the charger they require plugged into a 700 watt pure sine wave inverter that has a direct feed from the main battery. I only recharge when the engine is running but the inverter keeps crapping out, indicating either too high or too low voltage (can't tell), any idea why this might be? I should mention I am using a [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1400115221&sr=8-6&keywords=battery+switch"]Perko 8501DP Battery Selector Switch[/ame] so that I can choose which battery(s) power the inverter but I am correctly choosing the main battery to power the inverter when attempting to charge the aux batts. Any help here would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Well, I found out why the inverter is kicking out, the readings going directly from the battery with the engine (and alternator) running are as high as 15.1 volts, the inverter obviously doesn't like that. Is there another way I could hook this up that "preconditions" the voltage so it doesn't spike as high as 15.1? If I turn on the inverter with the main battery as the source without the engine running the voltage reads a steady 12.8 and the inverter has no problem. I want to be able to recharge the aux batts while driving, but, like I said, being LiFePo they require this special charger so I have to run the charger from the inverter. Thanks!
 

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I use lipo and life batteries in my airsoft guns @ 11.1V didn't know they had that tech for automotive...or are you creating it? Let me get this straight, Your running a inverter off your main battery to drive a charger to charge batteries to run your larger inverter?
I gotta question the design of this system...keep it simple. Your engineering to compensate.
I posted my build, 5th time, works like a champ!
180amp alternator is big enough to charge these batteries but I read somewhere to charge them with a trickle charger at the end of the day if used hard.
 

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In our older vehicles, we've run the Cobra 2500 inverters, and are thinking of doing the same with our new promaster.

We expect to mount the inverter directly behind the passenger seat, tapping cables through the cab/cargo floor riser then into the battery compartment directly. We also plan to tap a 12V power supply to the rear into a fuse block for some extra dome lights and anything else we may add down the road. We installed a 150A fuse inline in the cables to the inverter in the older installations.

Right now, we always have the vehicle running when using the inverter as a habit, unless we're only going to need electricity for a few seconds, which rarely happens. Mostly we use large shop vacuums, which draw the most, or some smaller power tools that don't draw that much. The vacuums definitely pull a lot. We only have one tool that requires a pure sine wave, and we've been able to find a substitute tool that will run on the Cobra 2500. They've proven to be good bang for the buck so far, we have three, each running for several years now.

Hopefully that describes our daily usage of the inverter, my question is, I'm wondering if there is a need to better isolate the vehicle's electronics from the inverter, and if so, what suggestions might be? Also, as of yet, I have no idea what the OEM battery is, but was told it's a bit of an oddball? I haven't popped the floorplate as of yet, been working on the other rear equipment.
 

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I wish you the best in getting this sorted out but I have to say this discussion makes me convinced that AGM or Flooded Acid golf cart batteries are the way for me to go. I do have a degree in physics so I understand what you are talking about but am unwilling to create such a system.
 

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Not that it means much but my alternator never puts out more than 14.5 v at best and usually 14.2 v with both batteries combined. When both are combined, the house battery usually reads .01 v higher than the starting battery.
 

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Finally finished my inverter install. I did 2 deep cell m27 paralleled to a 200 amp isolator installed behind drivers seat. I ran 4/0 welding cable to my 6k watt with 12k watt inverter. Installed 30 amp 6 fuse board for led interior lights, amber exterior stobe led lights, subwoofer and USB sockets. Ran 1/0 welding cable from isolator to front, back batteries, ground and all the way up to the alternator. I also have an RV outlet outside for shore power that runs a trickle charger and outlets for interior use. The outlets have both inverter and shore power side by side. For fun, I did LED voltage display for both front, back and alternator power. This van is fun to work on. I was able to get the dealer to look up service manual as I was having a hard time with the alternator isolation. There is a small lug about 10" from the alternator lug that catches the starter. I was able to hypress lugs on all connections to retain factory connections if I need to restore it to original. I know it's a lot of work to microwave my lunch, but my lady is a GOOD cook! Hope this helps anybody thinking about an inverter install.
Where did you route the cable to get to the alternator? Is there any advantage to going straight to the alternator, rather than patching in at the battery under the seat? Where did you get the fuse panel? I am looking forward to seeing your pictures. I am currently running a 2500 pure sine that I will be transferring to the PM.
 
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