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Discussion Starter #1
There doesn't seem to be a way to turn on only the accessories without turning the key to on. The 12V power receptacles and any other function like radio and power windows will only work while the PMC is running or with the key in the ON position.. Poor design.
 

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I wish I had an easy work around for you but there really isn't one, unless you want to go into the fuse panel and start re wiring the relay for the power outlets. The radio will time out after 30 or so minutes without the key on, the windows will function with the key removed but once you open the door they will time out within a few seconds.
It's just some silly cost cutting measure that pretty much no one else uses for this level of vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wish I had an easy work around for you but there really isn't one, unless you want to go into the fuse panel and start re wiring the relay for the power outlets. The radio will time out after 30 or so minutes without the key on, the windows will function with the key removed but once you open the door they will time out within a few seconds.
It's just some silly cost cutting measure that pretty much no one else uses for this level of vehicle.

I see the radio does operate without the key, so does my 2010 Transit Connect's radio, unbeknownst to me all these years, I always would put the key to the accessory position which apparently does absolutely nothing. The windows do not operate without the key in my PMC.
 

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My 12V in the center console will continue to work with the key out - I can leave my phone plugged in and it charges while I'm in the grocery store or whatever. BUT I agree it's a bit of a PITA when I want to plug in in the back 12V while I'm at the beach and listen to music - totally have to have the car accessory mode on...lame.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My 12V in the center console will continue to work with the key out - I can leave my phone plugged in and it charges while I'm in the grocery store or whatever. BUT I agree it's a bit of a PITA when I want to plug in in the back 12V while I'm at the beach and listen to music - totally have to have the car accessory mode on...lame.

Do you have the City? None of my 12V outlets work unless the key is "On", there is no "Accessory" key position.
 

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The factory USB chargers are very low amps in the Promaster, I would assume the same in the PMC. From what I remember it is about 1.0A, which is brutally slow at charging a phone or tablet. If you need power all the time without a key here are a couple of suggestions:

I installed one of these: Foxnovo Blue LED 12-24V Car Lighter Socket Dual USB Power Adapter Charger Outlet

And one of these in the back: zowaysoon PJH-RS-0377 Car Digital Voltmeter Dual USB 2 Port Power Socket Three Hole Panel.

You can use an add-a-fuse like this one: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder and have it wired up in no time. No need to mess with a fuse panel or wiring up to your battery.

As for the windows, it would be great to allow those to work on demand. I have an aux battery and would love to wire those up to it but I am not going to mess with it. Not really that big of a deal to me.
 

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Do you have the City? None of my 12V outlets work unless the key is "On", there is no "Accessory" key position.
Ha! I thought you meant "half on" by accessory position....But my 12V up front works when it's half on, as does the USB outlet. The one in back does not.

I wish I was more electrically savvy - I'd take Andrew's advice. It's the little annoying things.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ha! I thought you meant "half on" by accessory position....But my 12V up front works when it's half on, as does the USB outlet. The one in back does not.

I wish I was more electrically savvy - I'd take Andrew's advice. It's the little annoying things.

There is only one "On" position, that is when all the dash and instrumentation lights illuminate. It is the default position after you start the PMC. There are no other positions except "ON" and "Start". All my 12v outlets only work when it is in the "ON" position.
 

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There is only one "On" position, that is when all the dash and instrumentation lights illuminate. It is the default position after you start the PMC. There are no other positions except "ON" and "Start". All my 12v outlets only work when it is in the "ON" position.

I think what we have is a failure to communicate. All my stuff works when it's "on" and obviously when it's started. Again, I thought you meant started by "on". These are all reasons why I prefer face-to-face communication. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think what we have is a failure to communicate. All my stuff works when it's "on" and obviously when it's started. Again, I thought you meant started by "on". These are all reasons why I prefer face-to-face communication. :confused:


"On" and when it's started is the same thing. 3 position key, "Off", "On" and "Start", which springs back to "On".
 

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Ha! I thought you meant "half on" by accessory position....But my 12V up front works when it's half on, as does the USB outlet. The one in back does not.

I wish I was more electrically savvy - I'd take Andrew's advice. It's the little annoying things.
Do some Youtube or Google searches and you can find some videos and info on how to add one with an add-a-fuse. It is honestly quite easy to do, I think you will surprise yourself.

Obviously if you are unsure of how to do it you can also buy the USB port and visit a car audio shop, they will likely install it for you. You might even be able to visit a small car audio shop or mechanic and ask if you can watch how it is done.
 

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Do some Youtube or Google searches and you can find some videos and info on how to add one with an add-a-fuse. It is honestly quite easy to do, I think you will surprise yourself.

Obviously if you are unsure of how to do it you can also buy the USB port and visit a car audio shop, they will likely install it for you. You might even be able to visit a small car audio shop or mechanic and ask if you can watch how it is done.
Hey, thanks!!
 

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I'll get back to you guys on this subject as Im positive there is a relay that controls the outlets. If thats the case it could be as simple as making a jumper wire at the fuse box in the dash. I don't think it controls the rear though. Don't hold me against this though, it could be way more complicated like I had originally stated.
 

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looks like the relay only controls the second power outlet, its easily bypassed without much work and will give you guys at least one constant 12v power outlet. Pics to follow
 

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This should be an easy project for the home gamers out there. If you can cut wire and crimp ends on then thats all the skill you need. Or ask a friendly mechanic and they should be able to do it in under 2 minutes.
1. Remove fuse panel cover, locate red relay
2. Remove red relay, you are going to be bypassing the ignition circuit, the larger pins are the ones involved.
3. Insert wire with male spade ends (non shielded type) into the two slots on the top right, as shown below. I recommend using wire no smaller than 16awg as this circuit is rated for a whopping 15A, pretty skookum!
4. Now you have 1 power outlet thats not on IGN and it cost you 50¢.
This controls the rearward power outlet, the orange ring will not light up until the ignition is turned on.
I ghetto jammed the wire in there for illustration purposes, yes it will work with it just jammed in there and should last but adding the male spade ends will make it much more secure and professional looking if a mechanic ever peeks in there.
You do not need to remove the dash panel but it does help and is removed with 2 T25 torx bits, one behind the fuse panel cover and one under a flip down cover to the front right.
P.S
Don't mind the black wires to the right, your van wont have those in there. Thats for my secret electronicals (dash cam/scanguage)
and DONT lose that relay, they are not cheap to replace or easy to come by if you lose it.
 

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This should be an easy project for the home gamers out there. If you can cut wire and crimp ends on then thats all the skill you need. Or ask a friendly mechanic and they should be able to do it in under 2 minutes.
1. Remove fuse panel cover, locate red relay
2. Remove red relay, you are going to be bypassing the ignition circuit, the larger pins are the ones involved.
3. Insert wire with male spade ends (non shielded type) into the two slots on the top right, as shown below. I recommend using wire no smaller than 16awg as this circuit is rated for a whopping 15A, pretty skookum!
4. Now you have 1 power outlet thats not on IGN and it cost you 50¢.
This controls the rearward power outlet, the orange ring will not light up until the ignition is turned on.
I ghetto jammed the wire in there for illustration purposes, yes it will work with it just jammed in there and should last but adding the male spade ends will make it much more secure and professional looking if a mechanic ever peeks in there.
You do not need to remove the dash panel but it does help and is removed with 2 T25 torx bits, one behind the fuse panel cover and one under a flip down cover to the front right.
P.S
Don't mind the black wires to the right, your van wont have those in there. Thats for my secret electronicals (dash cam/scanguage)
and DONT lose that relay, they are not cheap to replace or easy to come by if you lose it.
Can I do this same deal for the Big Promaster 2014?
Thanks
 

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Im not sure if it will work on the PM. I don't work on them very often so I haven't really tested anything. If you see a red relay behind the dash fuse panel its possible it controls one of the dash outlets.
 
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