[RV8R]

I'm not using the compression 90 degree fitting that came with it. For now I'm just fastening a flex dryer hose with a 3/8 flare 90 to 1/4 male NPT, then NPT/BSPT adapter. I got the yellow tape for the pipe thread fittings. Later I'll route copper pipe when I have the time to do it right.

For intake pipe routing, my propex is near the wall, so it comes down between the edge and the main front to back floor support. Seems like I'll have to cross that support with the intake. That will cause the intake to go up again a bit to attach to a crosswise support. If I go straight back I run into the suspension springs.

Good, I do not like the compression 90 fitting that comes with the Propex. I used the flare fittings & flared my copper lines. Best to soapy water test even a temporary install.

If you are looking for ideas/comments on your Propex install photos of your intended installation would go a long way (I know that is hard to do underneath the van). You can always “tweak” the intake & exhaust if you are not happy with the 1st install. Just do not shorted either tubes.

 

[RV8R]

On another note;

20lb Propane tanks fit perfectly into a “Milk Crate” for better stability.

Home Depot;

 

[supermoocow]

We used the 90 degree olive fitting that came with it (didn't want to wait on ordering another fitting), and have 1/4" line to it. We were able to find existing holes under the van to mount the hanger brackets for the intake/exhaust lines, although the brackets required some reshaping. Our exhaust goes to the drivers side and the intake to the passenger side, both ahead of the rear wheels.

 

[aaronmcd]

We used the 90 degree olive fitting that came with it (didn't want to wait on ordering another fitting), and have 1/4" line to it. We were able to find existing holes under the van to mount the hanger brackets for the intake/exhaust lines, although the brackets required some reshaping. Our exhaust goes to the drivers side and the intake to the passenger side, both ahead of the rear wheels.

This means you put the Propex in the middle of the floor? Or did you extend one of the pipes?
I drilled and mounted with sheet metal screws. Hopefully there's no issue with that. Had to buy 2 more P brackets and re-bend one just a tad. There was no way to route them 18" apart without crossing the edge support, so I drilled a hole at the low point to let water escape. Just waiting on McMaster-Carr to test it.

I only ordered the new fitting so I can do a temporary install with flexible hose. The flex hose will come in handy later to attach to the bulkhead fitting anyway.

 

[supermoocow]

This means you put the Propex in the middle of the floor? Or did you extend one of the pipes?

Sorry, I was generalizing, the exhaust goes forward on the driver side and the intake goes to the passenger side. It's mounted inboard of the driver side wheelwell. We did not change the length of either.

Left wheelwell, looking forward

Looking forward, exhaust is on the left and intake on the right

 

[aaronmcd]

Sorry, I was generalizing, the exhaust goes forward on the driver side and the intake goes to the passenger side. It's mounted inboard of the driver side wheelwell. We did not change the length of either.
View attachment 69778
Left wheelwell, looking forward

View attachment 69779
Looking forward, exhaust is on the left and intake on the right

Ah ok I thought you meant you went all the way to the edge.
Is forward facing ok? I felt like I had to aim them back for less chance of getting stuff in them.

Also wondering is that red stuff needed even with the blue connectors? Seems like the blue would insulate the exhaust, no?

 

[RV8R]

If you need different clamps - they are typically called "adel"

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[supermoocow]

Ah ok I thought you meant you went all the way to the edge.
Is forward facing ok? I felt like I had to aim them back for less chance of getting stuff in them.

Also wondering is that red stuff needed even with the blue connectors? Seems like the blue would insulate the exhaust, no?

The only issue we had was when down near Crestone CO, we did a lot of dirt road driving and the dust is very 'sticky'. We think it got up the intake/exhaust and coated the combustion sensor wheel, so the heater thought it wasn't lighting. Blowing some air through the pipes cleared it up, but we'll make little covers for them next time we go somewhere dusty.

The red is just to seal between the metal and the blue silicone, we don't want bugs or moisture sneaking in between the metal and the plywood floor. We weren't sure how hot it would be around the silicone, so we just used red.

 

[aaronmcd]

Got some layout ideas and questions I've been pondering and would like input on.

One of the main challenges is designing around components:

1) Water tank:
I plan a wheel well tank. I have a 32 gallon NW conversions tank shown here. Do I need to plan around removing the water tank? If so, it seems the only way would be to keep the entire space beside it in the garage free, or easily removeable. That means no permanent supports for a shelf over the tank. Removeable supports perhaps? Shelf supports would double as water tank restraint. Perhaps pipe supports bolted to threaded inserts?
2) Water heater:
After looking into hot water, I am now leaning towards isotemp. It's bulky and may not fit well under cabinets, but seems like right on top of the water tank is the perfect spot. Maybe shift it back from the drawn location to fit pump and accumulator in front of it and run water and heater hoses in the front.
3) Propane:
I feel like this spot just between the bed and Propex is the perfect spot. I've read to build the locker so it opens from the top, but I don't see why I couldn't get a decent seal from the side using rubber and latches. If it must open from the top, then perhaps it's worth clearing an additional few inches and make a clear space wide enough for a seat across from the planned toilet/seat. This may provide a better space to eat at than a fold out desk in the front, but do we REALLY need 4 places to sit down?

Other:

4) Garage:
Even if I slide a bike or two down the left, and put a cat litter box in the front, I still have a good sized cavern under there. 2 ft wide x ~34" high (maybe less with a slide out table) x 3'-9" deep. What's that space good for? Ideas:
Tools - I could keep all my tools in there
Ladder - will definitely want the telescoping ladder with us.
Bike gear - shoes, helmet, floor pump, tools, spare tires. Doesn't take much space though.
Trash - it's just a big dumpster down there.
Dirty clothes - I like to think we'll hand wash more often, but maybe we'll throw some down there
Camping gear - it's pretty small gear since we backpack. But we could store our quilts uncompressed.
Toilet paper - we can finally start hoarding apocalypse toilet paper!
Ok this needs it's own special thread.
5) My desk:
I'll be using the driver seat as my office chair. My plan was a fold out desk, perhaps rotating from a vertical pipe. However, it will be hard to make RIGID enough and STRONG enough to cantilever very far, and definitely won't be long enough for comfortable use in the passenger seat. It would be nice to have a sit-in netflix watching spot. A center pop-up table may be ideal for that. And may keep the upper cabinets out of the way. But rotating may be nice for quickly shoving it aside without taking down the workstation. Thoughts?

Image attached.

 

[RV8R]

An ability to remove the water tank is good

Best if you can have the propane locker access from the top (easier to seal) & propane is heavier than air so the seal is where the air should concentrate. The drain to atmosphere should be thru the floor

 

[aaronmcd]

An ability to remove the water tank is good

Best if you can have the propane locker access from the top (easier to seal) & propane is heavier than air so the seal is where the air should concentrate. The drain to atmosphere should be thru the floor

Water tank: I'd need front-to-back lateral stability of the shelf over the tank, so perhaps just make a left side wall for the tank and bolt it to corner posts with threaded inserts. That way it provides some strength and can be removed and re-installed easily.
Propane: Yes I'm leaning top entry as well. I don't think we will need all that storage, and if we want it we can always stick a bin there.

 

[RV8R]

Water tank: I'd need front-to-back lateral stability of the shelf over the tank, so perhaps just make a left side wall for the tank and bolt it to corner posts with threaded inserts. That way it provides some strength and can be removed and re-installed easily.
Propane: Yes I'm leaning top entry as well. I don't think we will need all that storage, and if we want it we can always stick a bin there.

Somewhere on here & member built a steel “hinged” frame to secure the wheelwell water tank (I thought it was well done). I think removing the water tank is unusual & probably only needed in the rare occurrence of replacing it. I just know when I design things that are difficult to remove they ate the 1st things to fail or in this case leak.

I believe if it is not too much trouble, a top entry propane locker provides a safer “seal”. If you have additional room in that locker (I did not), but @GaryBIS suggested to me additional space can hold 1 or 2 - 1lb propane tank(s) if you have a need for those smaller ones.

 

[cno]

Somewhere on here & member built a steel “hinged” frame to secure the wheelwell water tank (I thought it was well done).

Not sure if this is the one you are speaking of? Here is our hinged water tank holder, you can find it about 5 pictures down in this post Jellybean Build. We had Innovative Welding Solutions LLC in Wheat Ridge, CO build it for us.

 

[GaryBIS]

Somewhere on here & member built a steel “hinged” frame to secure the wheelwell water tank (I thought it was well done). I think removing the water tank is unusual & probably only needed in the rare occurrence of replacing it. I just know when I design things that are difficult to remove they ate the 1st things to fail or in this case leak.

I believe if it is not too much trouble, a top entry propane locker provides a safer “seal”. If you have additional room in that locker (I did not), but @GaryBIS suggested to me additional space can hold 1 or 2 - 1lb propane tank(s) if you have a need for those smaller ones.

Hi RV,
The extra disposable small tanks that can fit in the corner of a propane locker if it is made just a touch larger than needed to hold a 20 lb tank are our just in case we run out of propane (due to a screwup on my part) on a really cold night, the little disposable tanks will provide enough to get you through the night and still have coffee in the morning You have to buy an adapter that adapts the disposable tank to the regulator - available on Amazon.

Gary

 

[aaronmcd]

Hi RV,
The extra disposable small tanks that can fit in the corner of a propane locker if it is made just a touch larger than needed to hold a 20 lb tank are our just in case we run out of propane (due to a screwup on my part) on a really cold night, the little disposable tanks will provide enough to get you through the night and still have coffee in the morning You have to buy an adapter that adapts the disposable tank to the regulator - available on Amazon.

Gary

This is what I plan to do. If the propane locker is a seat it will be a bit wider anyway and I can stick a couple 1 lb tanks in the corners

 

[RV8R]

Not sure if this is the one you are speaking of? Here is our hinged water tank holder, you can find it about 5 pictures down in this post Jellybean Build. We had Innovative Welding Solutions LLC in Wheat Ridge, CO build it for us.

Yes @cno

That is the one I was thinking of - great design 👍

 

[aaronmcd]

Been planning and working for weeks, finally have a bit to show for it. Needed to drill some big holes in the floor for the propex heater. Have to buy a hole saw of the proper size and a mandrel to fit the hole saw for the drill. The cutting was surprisingly easy, not any harder than drilling a small hole.

Wired the heater and made some propane connections. First time I've ever bought a propane tank. Got a 2 stage regulator to lower the pressure, got a local gas supplier to make the propane tank hose. Bought a dryer hose and fittings from ACE (they are amazingly helpful there) and got an NPT to BSPT adapter from McMaster-Carr to fit the us threads to the European threaded propex. NPT threads and BSPT threads have a different taper and slightly different pitch even if they are the same diameter.

Used yellow Teflon tape, about 4 wraps per fitting. Tightened to about 3.3 turns but each fitting varies a bit. The dryer hose has flare fittings which I just tightened snug with a wrench. Tested with soap water and wired in a gas alarm and tested for half an hour with the alarm hooked up. Gonna take it out tomorrow for some cold camping.

The combustion air intake and exhaust are from the outside, so drilled 2 floor holes. Ran the included pipes through the floor and clamped to the propex. Used a couple P clamps per hose to route the exhaust to the side and the intake to the center (away from the exhaust). The intake hose isn't a down slope so I drilled a hole at the lowest part of the pipe for water drainage.

I also got a bunch of wall panels attached so I can start on lower cabinets. The staining and painting was by far the most annoying and time consuming thing on this build so far. I used 0.2" plywood. For the bed Head and foot, I wanted the wood look so I conditioned, stained, and applied 2 coats of polyurethane. I screwed to sheet metal ribs and some 2x2 wood glued to the van metal around the windows. The rest of the panels are painted white, in part because my wife doesn't want 100% wood interior and part because I think the paint is better for hiding any stains and scuffs on the plywood. The main wall panels are set out an inch from the head and foot boards, but still set back from the main support pillars. I also made sure to run AC to both sides and DC for a few runs before screwing and glueing panels on.

Also, I finally used the rivet nuts! The tool is actually super easy and intuitive, and there was no reason to "test" it in the air first. Just thread the nut on the mandrel while the arms are open, place it in the drilled holes, close the arms, and unscrew the mandrel. Attached a 2x ledger for a future driver side cabinet and also used rivet nuts for one of the wall panels where I may want to add something in the future. The nice thing about this is that if I ever need to remove sheet metal screws and they don't go back in, I can easily drill and insert a nut.

I also bought a urine diverter off Amazon and ordered a couple 10L urine tanks for the toilet build. Making progress!

 

[RV8R]

@aaronmcd

That is Fantastic & I hope you get out there for some cold weather camping.

When you get around to mounting your 2 stage regulator permanently, I will share the following with you of which I was told by a local RV shop I trust;

Our new regulation in Canada is to mount the 2 stage regulator properly “above” the propane tank valve.

I did not confirm this by researching our regulation, however when I asked the trusted RV guy why, he told me because if the propane tank is close to full & the liquid propane is sloshing around in it then liquid propane can get into the hose an travel down to the regulator. As the occurrence seems possible to me not probably. I’m just passing it on to you FWIW. I would definitely travel with the propane valve turned off.

Have Fun Camping !!

 

[MaggieMarty]

I also bought a urine diverter off Amazon and ordered a couple 10L urine tanks for the toilet build. Making progress!

Could you post a link for the urine diverter you bought, please?

 

[aaronmcd]

Could you post a link for the urine diverter you bought, please?

Currently unavailable:

Separett Privy 501 Urine Separating Toilet Kit with Grey Bowl - - Amazon.com

Separett Privy 501 Urine Separating Toilet Kit with Grey Bowl - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com