It is not the necessarily the skylights themselves that leak, but the install opening around a corrugated roof structure that can hold water against the what we refer to in the waterproofing industry as "gipe"Nah, I'm gonna go for the spacecraft hatch.
Vantech makes an adapter for mounting things to promaster roofs at the factory mount points.My new van was a work van so selling off partition, shelving, and ladder rack. Should I keep the existing rails the ladder rack is mounted to? Maybe us them for cross members to mount solar to?
I have never looked out the rear door windows while driving. Not useful. Side windows very useful.Another thing I have to ponder is windows. ... Rear door windows I'm not quite sold on, but might make driving easier.
I have a full 4 camera system, since I do not have windows on either side, it is immensely helpful. I never use the rear view mirror in any vehicle I own. I suppose too many years spent in vans and towing.I have never looked out the rear door windows while driving. Not useful. Side windows very useful.
However, I highly recommend an always-on rear view camera. Here is my install thread. I stole the idea from Baxsie's post #33 in this thread. Six months later, I still think this is probably the best thing I have done to the van. And it is comparatively easy to do.
not priceyIdk, adding cameras seems really tough/pricey.
Thanks for that. So my van is the EXT which has 14” extra between the wheel wells & the back doorsOh and I never mentioned size - I have the 159 2500
Thanks for posting this. I have been thinking about a camera system for security, including monitoring from my bed. Maybe in its own thread you can talk about how you are using it.I used this camera system
I would say there are many similar systems and from what I can tell they are mostly the same.
I split the feeds from the cameras in order to be able to access them from my bed, but the system works fine as designed.
We're planning on getting this charger for my MacBook Pro: 72W Type-C PD Car Charger Adapter. Won't have an inverter.Was also trying to guess how much our laptops draw on average without ordering a kill a watt meter. Then I realized I can estimate 3 full charges per day with a 65 wh battery ~= 200 Wh. Portable monitor 50 Wh/day. Lets say my wife uses the same (she won't on her wimpy mac), so 500 Wh/day for work. That's much better than what I was imagining. Lets say another 500 Wh/day for fridge, and another few hundred for misc. 2 kwh should be ok for a few days between drives with a bit of solar.
Unfortunately there aren't any DC chargers for my MSI laptop.
I measured everything. ±1/2" or so, should be good for fairly detailed design. Thinking 54" for the bed. Bikes are a bit longer but the bed can't fit right up against the doors anyway so it might work. Will have to measure the bikes exactly for more detailed design and required bed height. My gravel bike has a dropper post and my wife is super short so we might not need as much height as others, but might not be good to store the bike with dropper down. Gotta check the bike forums.Thanks for that. So my van is the EXT which has 14” extra between the wheel wells & the back doors
@RnR has a standard 159” & has been designing a floor plan for awhile, so I would think he knows the dimensions quite well. I posted the Sportmobile layout pdf & that will also give you dimentions To help you rough in sizes.
What size bed do you want? Our is queen width 60”. How long are your bikes you want to put under the bed, as that will be a deciding factor (assuming the bed is going from wall to wall length 73” to 74”
I have their 60A MPPT charge controller, a 40A DC-DC charger, and their 100Ah LiFePO4 battery. All serving well. I would've gotten their inverter too but they were out of stock at the time. I find their products to be good, priced reasonably, and, importantly, have decent North American based support. This is key for a noob with vehicle electrics systems.Unfortunately there aren't any DC chargers for my MSI laptop.
I'm debating inverter size with myself now. (I should be working.) Seems 1000 W should be good for most anything unless I want to bring a toaster on board or run power tools. Laptop is 180 watts, and the wife's mac could run on DC. I don't plan to have grid power but an inverter/charger would provide flexibility for future options but costs a lot more.
Any opinions on Renogy brand parts? For:
- Solar/charge controller
- B2B charger
First I split the camera feeds using normal RCA splitters. One feed into a RBG w video connection (5 RCA cables, I used one to carry power to the screen that came with the cameras) the other output from the splitter feeds a 4 in 1 video processorThanks for posting this. I have been thinking about a camera system for security, including monitoring from my bed. Maybe in its own thread you can talk about how you are using it.
1) could the 4 camera feeds be captured by a recorder?
2) tell me more about how you split the feed, what monitor did you use for the 2nd display? Could there be another split for a 3rd monitor?