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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Hey @aaronmcd, are you liking the rv labs latches? I was thinking of getting the same ones but would be great to hear a field review.

Also, what drawer slides did you use for the fridge?
I got Accuride slides from McMaster Carr. The heaviest duty slides. The slides could support several fridges, the weak link is the screws in my 1/2" plywood, so I added a strip of plywood below the front of each slide (and above the rear) for bearing support. The hardest part about these slides is they don't come apart, so I had to support the fridge while screwing them on, then crawl around under the back to put the final screws in the cabinet. My fridge drawer is SLIGHTLY deeper than the slide length, which blocked easy access to the front screws. I was able to get a few in at a slight angle. So just make sure the slides are the full length of the drawer depth, or close to it.

The RV Labs latches are so far working great. Only been using them since I posted that and only drove once. No long term reviews yet.
 

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I got Accuride slides from McMaster Carr. The heaviest duty slides. The slides could support several fridges, the weak link is the screws in my 1/2" plywood, so I added a strip of plywood below the front of each slide (and above the rear) for bearing support. The hardest part about these slides is they don't come apart, so I had to support the fridge while screwing them on, then crawl around under the back to put the final screws in the cabinet. My fridge drawer is SLIGHTLY deeper than the slide length, which blocked easy access to the front screws. I was able to get a few in at a slight angle. So just make sure the slides are the full length of the drawer depth, or close to it.

The RV Labs latches are so far working great. Only been using them since I posted that and only drove once. No long term reviews yet.
Ah, these bad boys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Ah, these bad boys?
Yea, I got the 22" pair. I could have gone with 24" perhaps, but didn't want it to extend so far into the aisle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Do you think the rv labs latch would hold the fridge closed while driving, or do you need the support with the locker drawer slide as well?
It might for a while with careful driving, but it's just 2 little dinky screws and plastic latches so I wouldn't trust it. Plus it's nice to have 2 latch points for such a large drawer. Would be better with locking slides on BOTH sides, because the left side can wobble a tad still. Double locking slides is probably a better solution for a fridge drawer but those stick out latches on the slides aren't pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Been working on the water system/passenger side of the van the past weeks.

Built a box around the wheel well water tank. The water heater and pump go on top of it, with a storage cubby in the back.

Cut the coolant lines and ran heater hose under the van and up through the floor and to the water heater. It came with annoying heat shrink clamps, and I had to replace a leaking clamp, and melted some plastic on the water heater with the heat gun :( hopefully just cosmetic.

Planned out water system and ordered all fittings and valves. Built a box for propane (no door yet). This will be in the under sink area. Still need to find a sink and faucet.

Water tank box:
73353


Cubby over water tank, and PVC fill pipe:
73354


Water tank box matches electrical box on the opposite side:
73355


Cut the first heater hose! Scarier than cutting a window:
73356


Tees and valves installed:
73357


Water heater hooked up to coolant system:
73358


Heat gun did some damage:
73359


Gluing up propane locker box. I'm getting a bit faster at the whole cut-rabbet-dado-wetdown-sand-glue-clamp thing.
73360


Test fit of the partial-cabinet. Holes to let water lines through to the sink:
73361
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Do you close the street down when you're working on the van?
It's a "slow street". CA did a lot of these when COVID hit. Close streets to through traffic and only for pedestrians and bikes. This one is silly because the street only runs 2 blocks so there isn't through traffic anyway, but it's nice justification for me to pile my stuff everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
I'm kind of addicted to rabbet-dado joints. They are so satisfying to assemble! And no fasteners required, though I do use brads sometimes if I don't have enough clamps or the wood is warped.
73399


Test fitting the oven cabinet I built today:
73400


Seeing how far it covers the door opening:
73401
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Just glued together?

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
Yeah just glued. They say titebond is stronger than wood. The other weekend I glued a part without any joints (just glued butt joint). Supposedly you aren't supposed to stress the joints for 24 hours. After 90 minutes, the wind blew the thing over and it landed hard on one end. The wood cracked right next to the joint, but the glue didn't budge. So it seems even a butt joint is stronger than pine after 90 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #254 · (Edited)
are u using 1/2 or 5/8 or 3/4 plywood?

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
1/2" radiata pine from Home Depot. Was the nicest I could find at home improvement stores. Also the most expensive. Have to sift through the stack for the best sheets, but even the worst sheets are better than the other stuff. All the birch stuff they sell has ridiculously thin face veneers, this stuff has 5 approximately equal veneers. Also very few voids. I've screwed into the edge with #6x1 1/2" screws in a few places and there's no splitting. Even the back ply is pretty nice with only a couple knots. Have to raise the grain and re-sand before finishing for best results.

The wood that cracked when it blew over was some cheaper edge glued pine from Lowes. I don't think the plywood would flinch if I threw it off a building.
 

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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Installed water lines with valves on all ends. Wired up the pump. Put some water in the tank. Turned on the pump. Opened the supply valve. Water sprayed out of a valve that will go to cold water at the back door almost as fast as when the valve was open. I guess I'll be replacing this faulty valve.

Is this common? Faulty fittings? None of my connections were noticably leaking in the few seconds I had it on, but it's hard to tell with water shooting everywhere.
 

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You are very lucky to find decent plywood. Your description sounds like the Arauco ply I got from Lowe’s maybe 10 years ago. It was nowhere to be seen when I was building out the van.
 

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Installed water lines with valves on all ends. Wired up the pump. Put some water in the tank. Turned on the pump. Opened the supply valve. Water sprayed out of a valve that will go to cold water at the back door almost as fast as when the valve was open. I guess I'll be replacing this faulty valve.

Is this common? Faulty fittings? None of my connections were noticably leaking in the few seconds I had it on, but it's hard to tell with water shooting everywhere.
I looked up the Isotherm heaters, they use BSPT thread fittings on most of their heaters. The isotherm has BSPT threads which stands for British Standard Pipe Tapered. You are using NPT threads. The BSPT threads are similar to, but not interchangeable with American NPTF pipe threads. The thread pitch is different in most sizes, and the thread angle is 55° instead of 60° angle found on NPTF and NPSM threads.

Isotherm says if you use lots of pipe dope, they will seal.

I do not know your model number, so I can't be 100% sure. But I would look it up on the website.

Isotherm sells adapters to get them to NPT. Part # ITP-SFB00002AA, $15

I would buy the adapters, you do not want them to leak.

Here is a link to the adapters, http://www.isotherm-parts.com/isotherm-parts-department/isotemp-water-heater-parts/isotemp-nipple-muff-bsp-npt-adapter
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
The company that sold me the heater claimed they are all NPT except one BSPT that they supplied a fitting for.
The threads really look straight, I don't think they are BSPT or NPT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Question for anyone with a cabinet partially over the sliding door opening. I just put in the cabinet, and suddenly realize the lower panel on the sliding door seems to be permanent. What if I ever need to fix the door latch mechanism? With the door not quite closed there is about 5 to 6 inches clearance. Might be accessible.

In other news, I discovered the valves only work one way, and I installed a few the wrong way. What kind of idiot designs a valve to be used one direction only? I never would have imagined such a product exists.
 
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