Ram Promaster Forum banner

$500 Solar and $700 Complete Electrical System

48K views 120 replies 30 participants last post by  RV8R 
#1 · (Edited)
Many here have developed the electrical system for their van and purchased too little, too much, or bought components that are technically sophisticated and expensive. I will give you some guidance here for a basic 200 watt solar, 200+ Amp Hour storage, with basic interconnection to the van and to shore power, plus an inverter. Many of these components I have used in my van or used in previous RV’s or have worked with others who have them. This system will run a 3 cu ft compressor refrigerator, a 700 watt microwave, LED lights, chargers for all your electronic stuff, 14 volt TV and lots more. It will connect to the van’s alternator, can be plugged into an outlet at a campsite or at your home, and can provide sufficient power when boon-docking for unlimited days IF the sun shines, if not run the van to charge.

1. Batteries- 2- 6volt flooded Lead acid golf cart batteries from Sam’s club 215 Amp Hour rating made by West Penn a very reputable firm. $84 each I suggest you vent them. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...p-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1
Alternative- 2 similar AGM batteries- the cost will be $600 and they are not quite as long lived but you do not need to vent them. Venting saves $400

2. Solar- 2- 100 Watt Renogy monocrystiline Kit PWM controller which will be fine, kit includes lead in and connectors, [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Bundle/dp/B01N5L3V9Y/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1510364816&sr=8-14&keywords=renogy%2B100%2Bwatt%2Bsolar%2Bpanel&th=1[/ame]
Buy a 3’ length of 2” angle aluminum at Home Depot to mount them.
Alternative- buy 2 similar panels and a Tracer MPPT controller. You can add a third panel if you later find it is needed but I betting it won’t be.

3. Shore power/ breakers/fuses for 12 volt circuits- WFCO power center, get a 20 foot HD extension cord to lead in to it, buy breakers at H-D [ame]https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-Black-Power-Center/dp/B004LF14Q4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365319&sr=8-3&keywords=wfco%2B35%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bconverter&th=1[/ame]

4. Interconnection to your van starting battery- Stinger 80 amp battery isolator. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510365499&sr=1-2&keywords=stinger+battery+isolator[/ame]
I recommend a small switch to deactivate the interconnect most of the time.

5. Wire- http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
THHN off the spools at H-D run in smurf tube (blue flex non-metalic conduit) when possible. To the other battery and to the power center run 4 AGW, to your refrigerator, lights and most low draw appliances use the Blue Sea chart.

6 Inverter- 1500 watt modified sine wave inverter- good for every thing you need- upgrade to sine wave if you must have a low watt induction cooktop. Some induction tops may run on this. Your risk. This comes with cables and a remote. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER-Inverter-Installation-approved-standards/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365966&sr=8-12&keywords=1500+watt+power+inverter[/ame]

7. Fuzes and such. Use the Blue Sea chart to install fuses that protect the wires, that is they need to be no larger than the wires can carry. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=80+amp+fuses&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3A80+amp+fuses[/ame]
Fuse BOTH ends of the Positive Battery wire AT EACH battery, fuse the inverter AT THE Battery, fuse the other wires with the WFCO. Follow the WFCO instructions concerning grounding the shore line as it doesn’t get grounded to the chassis!

OK It’s a bit over $700, but I did get you to consider it. I often say solar is $500 and it is, the above is a complete system exclusive of a few USB and cigar outlets, some small switches, a bit of wire and some connectors. I can’t know what you will need exactly.

Take the money you save and go CAMP, visit good bars and restaurants that serve great food and drinks, take some pictures, renew your relationship with your SO, find the winter sun in the South, and remember the sunsets. If you have enough, doing is always better than having more.
 
See less See more
#7 ·
Winston? Calling Winston ;)
Oh-Oh he is gonna post up the ULTIMATE! No vacation in Spain, no drive down to La Pas, no Arctic midnight sun, etc.
Thanks RD for finally posting an excellent summary of "the other side".

And we haven't forgotten to live . . . sitting here in Mobile . . . with an odometer check revealing 26,500 miles of exploration since launch on April 9th . . .
 
  • Like
Reactions: RDinNHandAZ
#4 ·
Oh-Oh he is gonna post up the ULTIMATE! No vacation in Spain, no drive down to La Pas, no Arctic midnight sun, etc.
 
#5 ·
Love this thread. I know when first starting to look into this stuff it gets confusing fast. Id hate to add to the confusion for people but just posting a couple other options for around the same money.

Cheap Pure Sine inverter for anyone interested. Does have a transfer switch in it though.




Another option for solar is Grape Solar sells $99 100w poly panels at Home Depot. The PWM charger included in that Renogy kit is positive grounded. I was originally going to get that until I saw it was positive ground. You can get the Wanderer controller from them on amazon for $50. They may even have started to include it with those kits now because I did see Renogy wanted to get away from selling any positive ground controllers.
 
#42 ·
Love this thread. I know when first starting to look into this stuff it gets confusing fast. Id hate to add to the confusion for people but just posting a couple other options for around the same money.

Cheap Pure Sine inverter for anyone interested. Does have a transfer switch in it though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TI1D5JK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I381LHGAAC558G&colid=3IJ4Z7QUZTGDD


Another option for solar is Grape Solar sells $99 100w poly panels at Home Depot. The PWM charger included in that Renogy kit is positive grounded. I was originally going to get that until I saw it was positive ground. You can get the Wanderer controller from them on amazon for $50. They may even have started to include it with those kits now because I did see Renogy wanted to get away from selling any positive ground controllers.
I know this is an older thread, but I figured post here rather than a new one. I am curious about the point raised above- it shows a "positive ground" system. I suppose for all of our purposes we need negative ground, but I can't think of a reason why a positive ground would even exist which makes me think it might not mean what I assume it means.

Can anyone shed light on that? I think I am going to order the $350 kit that comes with the negative ground wanderer, more cables and the roof brackets. I want to make sure that is what I need.
 
#6 ·
What?! No diagram of how all the pieces fit together? :)

Thanks for pulling this into a single post. It shows that a simple, safe, effective system can be put together for not too much money.

I'm only building out my van so I can put in a fancy Blue Sea electrical system, but that's my personal problem.
 
#8 ·
Thank goodness you rose to KOV’s bait. I know you’ve done it all this year. It’s gotta beat that Jetta or whatever you went a gazillion miles in! Be safe, hugs to VJ. Just remember our side has cookies... Wait a minute you have cookies too! I appreciate the self restraint and don’t forget I do have that picture of you under the van fixing the 2nd alternator razor belt with the snow all around just in case!
 
#9 ·
. . . and don’t forget I do have that picture of you under the van fixing the 2nd alternator razor belt with the snow all around just in case!
Chapter 2:

That electrically taped block of wood worked for over 20,000 miles. Made it all the way to Alaska and the Yukon and back.

But just to be safe, we had son Timothy look at it when we got home . . . he left the slightly 'injured' radiator hose in place, adjusted something and pronounced it "good to go". Then (and we should stay out of Kentucky) . . . in Kentucky, we again sprang a leak . . . radiator fluid everywhere. Timothy claims he did nothing with our block of wood . . . dubious and skeptical, we rang-off with Timothy - - clearly he wasn't going to 'motor-down' to Kentucky to save us.

So, to the emergency 'supply kit' with its limited 'fix' possibilities: electrical or duct tape, cable ties, or hose 'worm' clamps. Here is our latest (temporary?) fix:

 
#12 ·
KilWerBzz,

We have considered a clamp, permanently, as a first line of defense . . . although, in the final analysis, if the 'band-saw' serpentine belt contacts anything, something is going to wear and fail. Incidentally, couldn't get your promasterforum link to open . . .
 
#13 ·
Thx RD for comparison mod. can you post wiring diagram with ur battery setup. somehow I can't see posted attachments. I just got my 2500 159WB 2 days ago and thinking of either go with portable Honda Gen or 2nd housing battery setup. this van will be only use for toys hauler/weekend jobs and occasionally weekend camping, thx
 
#14 ·
RDinNHandAZ, thanks so much for posting this. I've been slaving away over my wiring diagram (can be seen over in the electrical thread) and am realizing that I am over complicating things. Perhaps I need to get back to the drawing board. Electrical can be some intimidating for us uninitiated folks.... just try not to learn things the hard way. Thanks for all your input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jmalk
#15 ·
Alternative- 2 similar AGM batteries- the cost will be $600 and they are not quite as long lived but you do not need to vent them. Venting saves $400
Is this a typical price for decent AGM batteries? I thought they were a bit cheaper than that. I ask because I'm looking at some AGM batteries in a bit different form factor, and they seemed expensive to me, but not so much compared to this estimate. Was going to go FLA, but now I'm tempted to go with AGM because you can mount them sideways and don't have to vent, so it gives me some better options.
 
#19 ·
It depends on how many amp hours you're getting. My 2, 125A vmax batteries were $484. These are made for this type of application.

BTW, I have friends that are not typically ones to worry much that say they would not risk not venting a FLA. One has FLA batteries on his boat, they caused the carbon monoxide detector to go off. No reason to risk it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
I bought my 12v AGM’s from Sam’s Club - $179 each (3 years ago and still performing well). BTW, no reason a vent system for flooded should cost more than $20. Personally, I wouldn’t even bother venting them as this is a huge van that fills with air every time you open or close the door! Worriers are going to worry always :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Sam’s Club does have the AGM listed in some stores and runs a special on them once a year at the beginning of golfing season in New England. I wonder if you can get them now.
Be aware, any AGM battery may not be the right AGM battery as those for standby power for computer equipment, emergency lights and so forth may not survive long in the van where considerable discharge down to 50% many times is needed. I like golf cart batteries because our use is similar but perhaps not as severe.
I have used Marine/Deep cycle batteries and had good luck but they were FLA as well.
Finally I just had to add water to my 2-1/2 year old FLA batteries. I got to within a 1/4” of the surface of the plates, a bit lower than I would recommend. I spend 6 months each year at 20% humidity or less so I plan to go on a once a year top up just to be safe. It’s a small matter but another thing the AGMs don’t need. Of course for the $200 I saved over KOV’s I’m getting paid well for the service time, it took about 15 minutes.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Big difference between batteries in the hold of a boat and inside a huge van that fills with fresh air every time you open or close the door! Now, if you have a 118 low roof and drive it once a week it might be a concern but if you have a skylight and awning window always open and you use the van several times a day (as I do) hardly something to worry about. I used AGM batteries in my conversion because I didn’t want to deal with the corrosion and loss of fluid associated with flooded, not from any fear of them exploding. Can it happen? Of course, I’m not suggesting anyone not vent their batteries only that as far as I’m concerned (for the way I use a van) it’s something I wouldn’t even worry about for a second. But, then again, I never wear my seat belt (unless someone else is driving me in their vehicle, as RD will attest) and I always speed.

Somehow I’ve made it to almost 75 and I’m still in one piece. Fortunately, I have no interest in motorcycles, airplanes, surf boards or sky diving. I guess life is all relative ;)

Why even consider flooded when you can buy these for $179?
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...e-31dtmagm/prod3590232.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1
 
#21 ·
Really comes down to double the price of a flooded. I can get 4 flooded 6v golf cart batteries for the price of 2 6v AGM. 440 amp hours vs 190

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...p-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:2

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...ize-gc2agm/prod3870119.ip?xid=plp:product:1:3

I havent made this decision yet, but going flooded is really tempting. But having to deal with cable corrosion at the terminals on car batteries, I think it would be annoying to ever have to try and clean it off house batteries. The water and venting thing bothers me less then the thought of having to clean corrosion in a house battery setting
 
#23 ·
It can happen although after 2 1/2 years mine look the same as new. There are sprays. Less batteries of a higher capacity lessen the number of terminals but it is tough to have less than 4 as one 200+ amp hour battery is going to be 120+ pounds.
 
#24 ·
. . . as one 200+ amp hour battery is going to be 120+ pounds.
RD, you understate. Our 245ah AGM battery weighs-in at 160 pounds.

Incidentally, this used 1 year/last year battery (not re-purposed for use in the ProMaster due to our switch to lithium) remains available.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RDinNHandAZ
#25 ·
Can someone point me to information (or a thread here) on a wiring diagram for a power center + inverter? I see a number of inverters come with a charger and automatic transfer switch, I assume in that case the WFCO power center is extraneous and I may as well just use a 12V fuse box and 120V distribution from the inverter output (or a breaker box fed from the inverter output).


Current plan is basically this thread's solar+alternator doing most of the charging of the battery, almost all 12V loads, so shore power is just an occasional nice-to-have for our uses.
 
#26 ·
That’s exactly how it do it. I only have an AC microwave and I only turn the inverter on when I want to use it. I do have an AC AGM battery charger that runs when I am connected to the grid but that is typically never. My 300 w solar and two AGM’s typically take care of everything. I may recharge them via the alternator if it’s overcastbut even then not typical. My microwave is plugged directly into the inverter. No 120 VAC panel, breaker, etc just a gfi outlet. All 12 VDC is powered thru a Blue Sea 12 volt fuse panel directly off the AGM’s
 
#27 ·
With the WFCO I'm about to wire up I was going to run the TV and fridge through it so they would be powered by shore power through the wfco whenever I'm plugged in. I could also wire up an extra plug from the wfco for possibly a portable AC or other small appliance to be used when plugged in. I don't plan to have any AC loads normally ever unless it's when I'm plugged into shore power so no need for an inverter.

All other 12v loads I was going to hook to a blue sea DC fuse box.

Would this be the correct/ideal way? I haven't seen much of detailed wiring for setups with the wfco or similar.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
Doesn’t your WFCO have a few 12 volt fuses in a bus? Mine has 4 so I wired from them. It turned out to be enough. It does work perfectly on shore or battery.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Yes, I'm going to wire in the fridge and the TV as those are the only significant loads worth running off shore power whenever I might be plugged in. I am going to look I to the shore power plug and wiring next to get the AC power to the unit. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
#30 ·
Wait- My WFCO powers everything DC all the time. It uses the batteries if not on shore power. It charges the batteries if on shore power and runs the 120 and 12 volt off shore power then. You don’t need anything else except an inverter that can be used like KOV suggests. No extra fuse panel, no extra charger for shore, no extra breakers for shore power, no worry about grounding incorrectly. Just feed the Battery input, the shore power input and then wire up your 12 volt loads for anytime use and the 120Volt loads for when on shore power. That is why it is such a good thing to use especially if one is somewhat sparky challenged!
 
#31 ·
Ok, gotcha! Im getting some lights and the fridge wires ran today.

I'm going to be wiring in the Victron Battery monitor/shunt. There are no grounds (only positive) connections for the wfco. You ran the positives to the wfco and the grounds for the DC items direct to the shunt/battery negative or ground bar, whichever I end up using as long as it's hooked up after the shunt? Or should these be grounded to the van since the wfco itself is grounded to the battery/shunt?

Same question different way lol - When the wfco is powering these devices if their negatives are still grounded at the shunt wouldn't that throw off my battery monitor?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
I put a ground buss bolted to the chassis near the WFCO and my shunt is connected to the negative side of the battery then the cable goes to a chassis ground. That way ANY current must pass through the shunt. Another way to say it........ Just don’t wire anything on the negative battery side before the shunt. I think you have the concept.
 
#33 ·
So if the fridge is powered by the wfco, which is grounded to the shunt then the fridge ground can just be grounded anywhere else and not screw up the battery meter? Am I picking up what your laying down? In my mind I guess I just think that any negative must go through the shunt.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
#34 · (Edited)
Yes ground the fridg. or any thing else to the chassis and the electrons go through the shunt. Think of the chassis as a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire on the WFCO. Join any electrical ground to it would be like connecting that wire to the ground wire. It is grounded, completing a circuit, AND it is connected to the battery ground beyond the shunt.

Oh and one more thing...... You might think about installing a battery disconect in the negative cable going to the chassis ground. I did so I can throw the lever and work on any part of my DC system without fearing shorting out anything. I used this one but others are available:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Battery-Disconnect-Kill-Switch/dp/B007O0BBFM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RBQ1GSZQ0VGVVQ0GDQVV&dpID=417jZCVUX1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail[/ame]
 
#35 ·
Yes ground the fridg. or any thing else to the chassis and the electrons go through the shunt. Think of the chassis as a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire on the WFCO. Join any electrical ground to it would be like connecting that wire to the ground wire. It is grounded, completing a circuit, AND it is connected to the battery ground beyond the shunt.

Oh and one more thing...... You might think about installing a battery disconect in the negative cable going to the chassis ground. I did so I can throw the lever and work on any part of my DC system without fearing shorting out anything. I used this one but others are available:
https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Battery...D=417jZCVUX1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
Great, thanks for the info. Makes sense.

Good idea about the switch on the negative. I am adding CBs for that same effect everywhere else and I have a spare switch exactly like the one you linked to I can use for the negative.

When hooking up the alternator charging (battery isolator) that does not require anything different with the shunt or do I need to run a negative from the starting to the coach battery as well? Normally it is just the positive ran to the coach battery from the starter battery.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top