Many here have developed the electrical system for their van and purchased too little, too much, or bought components that are technically sophisticated and expensive. I will give you some guidance here for a basic 200 watt solar, 200+ Amp Hour storage, with basic interconnection to the van and to shore power, plus an inverter. Many of these components I have used in my van or used in previous RV’s or have worked with others who have them. This system will run a 3 cu ft compressor refrigerator, a 700 watt microwave, LED lights, chargers for all your electronic stuff, 14 volt TV and lots more. It will connect to the van’s alternator, can be plugged into an outlet at a campsite or at your home, and can provide sufficient power when boon-docking for unlimited days IF the sun shines, if not run the van to charge.
1. Batteries- 2- 6volt flooded Lead acid golf cart batteries from Sam’s club 215 Amp Hour rating made by West Penn a very reputable firm. $84 each I suggest you vent them. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...p-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1
Alternative- 2 similar AGM batteries- the cost will be $600 and they are not quite as long lived but you do not need to vent them. Venting saves $400
2. Solar- 2- 100 Watt Renogy monocrystiline Kit PWM controller which will be fine, kit includes lead in and connectors, [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Bundle/dp/B01N5L3V9Y/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1510364816&sr=8-14&keywords=renogy%2B100%2Bwatt%2Bsolar%2Bpanel&th=1[/ame]
Buy a 3’ length of 2” angle aluminum at Home Depot to mount them.
Alternative- buy 2 similar panels and a Tracer MPPT controller. You can add a third panel if you later find it is needed but I betting it won’t be.
3. Shore power/ breakers/fuses for 12 volt circuits- WFCO power center, get a 20 foot HD extension cord to lead in to it, buy breakers at H-D [ame]https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-Black-Power-Center/dp/B004LF14Q4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365319&sr=8-3&keywords=wfco%2B35%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bconverter&th=1[/ame]
4. Interconnection to your van starting battery- Stinger 80 amp battery isolator. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510365499&sr=1-2&keywords=stinger+battery+isolator[/ame]
I recommend a small switch to deactivate the interconnect most of the time.
5. Wire- http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
THHN off the spools at H-D run in smurf tube (blue flex non-metalic conduit) when possible. To the other battery and to the power center run 4 AGW, to your refrigerator, lights and most low draw appliances use the Blue Sea chart.
6 Inverter- 1500 watt modified sine wave inverter- good for every thing you need- upgrade to sine wave if you must have a low watt induction cooktop. Some induction tops may run on this. Your risk. This comes with cables and a remote. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER-Inverter-Installation-approved-standards/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365966&sr=8-12&keywords=1500+watt+power+inverter[/ame]
7. Fuzes and such. Use the Blue Sea chart to install fuses that protect the wires, that is they need to be no larger than the wires can carry. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=80+amp+fuses&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3A80+amp+fuses[/ame]
Fuse BOTH ends of the Positive Battery wire AT EACH battery, fuse the inverter AT THE Battery, fuse the other wires with the WFCO. Follow the WFCO instructions concerning grounding the shore line as it doesn’t get grounded to the chassis!
OK It’s a bit over $700, but I did get you to consider it. I often say solar is $500 and it is, the above is a complete system exclusive of a few USB and cigar outlets, some small switches, a bit of wire and some connectors. I can’t know what you will need exactly.
Take the money you save and go CAMP, visit good bars and restaurants that serve great food and drinks, take some pictures, renew your relationship with your SO, find the winter sun in the South, and remember the sunsets. If you have enough, doing is always better than having more.
1. Batteries- 2- 6volt flooded Lead acid golf cart batteries from Sam’s club 215 Amp Hour rating made by West Penn a very reputable firm. $84 each I suggest you vent them. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...p-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1
Alternative- 2 similar AGM batteries- the cost will be $600 and they are not quite as long lived but you do not need to vent them. Venting saves $400
2. Solar- 2- 100 Watt Renogy monocrystiline Kit PWM controller which will be fine, kit includes lead in and connectors, [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Bundle/dp/B01N5L3V9Y/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1510364816&sr=8-14&keywords=renogy%2B100%2Bwatt%2Bsolar%2Bpanel&th=1[/ame]
Buy a 3’ length of 2” angle aluminum at Home Depot to mount them.
Alternative- buy 2 similar panels and a Tracer MPPT controller. You can add a third panel if you later find it is needed but I betting it won’t be.
3. Shore power/ breakers/fuses for 12 volt circuits- WFCO power center, get a 20 foot HD extension cord to lead in to it, buy breakers at H-D [ame]https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-Black-Power-Center/dp/B004LF14Q4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365319&sr=8-3&keywords=wfco%2B35%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bconverter&th=1[/ame]
4. Interconnection to your van starting battery- Stinger 80 amp battery isolator. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510365499&sr=1-2&keywords=stinger+battery+isolator[/ame]
I recommend a small switch to deactivate the interconnect most of the time.
5. Wire- http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
THHN off the spools at H-D run in smurf tube (blue flex non-metalic conduit) when possible. To the other battery and to the power center run 4 AGW, to your refrigerator, lights and most low draw appliances use the Blue Sea chart.
6 Inverter- 1500 watt modified sine wave inverter- good for every thing you need- upgrade to sine wave if you must have a low watt induction cooktop. Some induction tops may run on this. Your risk. This comes with cables and a remote. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER-Inverter-Installation-approved-standards/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1510365966&sr=8-12&keywords=1500+watt+power+inverter[/ame]
7. Fuzes and such. Use the Blue Sea chart to install fuses that protect the wires, that is they need to be no larger than the wires can carry. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=80+amp+fuses&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3A80+amp+fuses[/ame]
Fuse BOTH ends of the Positive Battery wire AT EACH battery, fuse the inverter AT THE Battery, fuse the other wires with the WFCO. Follow the WFCO instructions concerning grounding the shore line as it doesn’t get grounded to the chassis!
OK It’s a bit over $700, but I did get you to consider it. I often say solar is $500 and it is, the above is a complete system exclusive of a few USB and cigar outlets, some small switches, a bit of wire and some connectors. I can’t know what you will need exactly.
Take the money you save and go CAMP, visit good bars and restaurants that serve great food and drinks, take some pictures, renew your relationship with your SO, find the winter sun in the South, and remember the sunsets. If you have enough, doing is always better than having more.