Hi Phil,Did some light reading and some math, a sealed 3 cuft battery box with 2-6v batteries charging at 30 amps will reach LEL in 2.4 minutes, could be off. Math is not my strong point, slept most of the time
This calculator say I need an air exchange every 11-12 minutes for a 3 cuft box, to meet the LEL standard of 1%. I currently use the van as the battery box so I have to do an air exchange every 1492 minutes (every 24 hrs is close enough).
Battery Room Hydrogen Gas Ventilation Calculator by SBS Battery
So a genius would have to figure out the diameter of a hole in the top and bottom of the battery box for the hydrogen flow freely. And that's not me
First; Thanks RD for this thread - Much AppreciatedOK can I help anyone? "I’ve been doing some hard travel’n” as Bob Dylan would say and now I am in AZ and available. You are all correct about the electrical. KOV keeps us using the forum in a way that lets questions get answered a few times not every day. I for one don’t want to answer over and over.
I didn’t think I would ever use the shore power part of the WFCO but have a few times in 4 plus years and in those times I REALLY needed it. I’d say buy the full featured WFCO and put a plug on the back of the van for the day you do.
This plan is plug and play BUT your needs and desires may vary so no one is going to do this exactly.
People complain about this forum? It makes me wonder what forum they like. My quick look at the Sprinter site and Transit site made me return here with relief.
We all have our quirks. In time you learn what sets people off. Avoid it and don't plan to win if an argument ensues. And if you get in deep with one of the moderators you can find yourself complaining about this forum on one of those other sites.
Rhetorical questions and answers are hard to defend. I have been there and now try to post my experience. If someone goes off and suggests something foolish suggest a simple alternative. My conflicts have been in this area as I feel simple is better, cheaper is often sufficient, and experimenting in new technology should be presented as such. These precepts led me to post the current thread and to request (along with others) it be a sticky.
As for the venting:
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Thank you so much for the great write up! After going for a few shakedown trips and reading this I have decided to greatly downsize my build. I had already purchased wiring / outlets / usb ends and such but had not spent the $$$ on the lithium batteries and high end power components. This was well over half of my proposed build budget. After using the van a few times I really cannot see that we would ever reap the true benefits of the high end system, plus there are many things about the lithium that had me worried I would burn up a very expensive system. I do have a question about the amount of solar... I had already carved out space on the roof rack for 3 panels and being that at this point the overall cost of a solar panel is not the most expensive part would I be doing any harm having 400 or so Watts of solar with this setup?Many here have developed the electrical system for their van and purchased too little, too much, or bought components that are technically sophisticated and expensive. I will give you some guidance here for a basic 200 watt solar, 200+ Amp Hour storage, with basic interconnection to the van and to shore power, plus an inverter. Many of these components I have used in my van or used in previous RV’s or have worked with others who have them. This system will run a 3 cu ft compressor refrigerator, a 700 watt microwave, LED lights, chargers for all your electronic stuff, 14 volt TV and lots more. It will connect to the van’s alternator, can be plugged into an outlet at a campsite or at your home, and can provide sufficient power when boon-docking for unlimited days IF the sun shines, if not run the van to charge.
1. Batteries- 2- 6volt flooded Lead acid golf cart batteries from Sam’s club 215 Amp Hour rating made by West Penn a very reputable firm. $84 each I suggest you vent them. Duracell Golf Car Battery - Group Size GC2 - Sam's Club
Alternative- 2 similar AGM batteries- the cost will be $600 and they are not quite as long lived but you do not need to vent them. Venting saves $400
2. Solar- 2- 100 Watt Renogy monocrystiline Kit PWM controller which will be fine, kit includes lead in and connectors, [ame]Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watt 12V Monocrystalline Solar Bundle Kit With 30A PWM Charge Controller : Garden & Outdoor
Buy a 3’ length of 2” angle aluminum at Home Depot to mount them.
Alternative- buy 2 similar panels and a Tracer MPPT controller. You can add a third panel if you later find it is needed but I betting it won’t be.
3. Shore power/ breakers/fuses for 12 volt circuits- WFCO power center, get a 20 foot HD extension cord to lead in to it, buy breakers at H-D [ame]Amazon.com: WFCO WF-8735-P Black 30 Amp Power Center: Automotive
4. Interconnection to your van starting battery- Stinger 80 amp battery isolator. [ame]Amazon.com: Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay,BLACK: Automotive
I recommend a small switch to deactivate the interconnect most of the time.
5. Wire- http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
THHN off the spools at H-D run in smurf tube (blue flex non-metalic conduit) when possible. To the other battery and to the power center run 4 AGW, to your refrigerator, lights and most low draw appliances use the Blue Sea chart.
6 Inverter- 1500 watt modified sine wave inverter- good for every thing you need- upgrade to sine wave if you must have a low watt induction cooktop. Some induction tops may run on this. Your risk. This comes with cables and a remote. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER-Inve...=8-12&keywords=1500+watt+power+inverter[/ame]
7. Fuzes and such. Use the Blue Sea chart to install fuses that protect the wires, that is they need to be no larger than the wires can carry. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...+amp+fuses&rh=n:15684181,k:80+amp+fuses[/ame]
Fuse BOTH ends of the Positive Battery wire AT EACH battery, fuse the inverter AT THE Battery, fuse the other wires with the WFCO. Follow the WFCO instructions concerning grounding the shore line as it doesn’t get grounded to the chassis!
OK It’s a bit over $700, but I did get you to consider it. I often say solar is $500 and it is, the above is a complete system exclusive of a few USB and cigar outlets, some small switches, a bit of wire and some connectors. I can’t know what you will need exactly.
Take the money you save and go CAMP, visit good bars and restaurants that serve great food and drinks, take some pictures, renew your relationship with your SO, find the winter sun in the South, and remember the sunsets. If you have enough, doing is always better than having more.
Good point on the controller, my best bet right now will be to ensure proper controller size and leave the space open on the roof if I need it.No problem, but each 100 watts is $100 of money that can be used elsewhere or for camping. My build had an Espar diesel furnace that cost more than my entire electrical system and a refrigerator that cost nearly as much. I argue for spending the money where it is needed. I hope you look back and found you made the right choice.
If you don’t buy the extra panel at least buy a solar controller that can handle it if you feel the need later.
Deferring to those with more wisdom and I am thinking about setting up my system similar to the one you posted. Do you wire separate AC outlets that connect to inverter? Do you have different AC outlets for when on shore power versus inverter on battery power only? Or is the shore power charging the the battery, and the battery is powering the inverter, so you only connect the AC outlets to the inverter?Wait- My WFCO powers everything DC all the time. It uses the batteries if not on shore power. It charges the batteries if on shore power and runs the 120 and 12 volt off shore power then. You don’t need anything else except an inverter that can be used like KOV suggests. No extra fuse panel, no extra charger for shore, no extra breakers for shore power, no worry about grounding incorrectly. Just feed the Battery input, the shore power input and then wire up your 12 volt loads for anytime use and the 120Volt loads for when on shore power. That is why it is such a good thing to use especially if one is somewhat sparky challenged!
Up to you. On mine, I had a separate AC circuit that only came on when connected to shore power. I had my inverter charger connected to one of those outlets so it’s charge my batteries while plugged in. The only other thing I plugged into that circuit was a portable air conditioner when I lived in Florida. But I had almost no regular AC loads. So I had no need to have multiple outlets off the inverter. The rare occasions I needed to plug something into AC while off grid I just plugged straight to the inverter. That happened one time in 2+ years when my girlfriend forgot her computer charger and we had to buy one on the road. Otherwise, everything we had was DC powered.Deferring to those with more wisdom and I am thinking about setting up my system similar to the one you posted. Do you wire separate AC outlets that connect to inverter? Do you have different AC outlets for when on shore power versus inverter on battery power only? Or is the shore power charging the the battery, and the battery is powering the inverter, so you only connect the AC outlets to the inverter?