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Really comes down to double the price of a flooded. I can get 4 flooded 6v golf cart batteries for the price of 2 6v AGM. 440 amp hours vs 190

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:2

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2agm/prod3870119.ip?xid=plp:product:1:3

I havent made this decision yet, but going flooded is really tempting. But having to deal with cable corrosion at the terminals on car batteries, I think it would be annoying to ever have to try and clean it off house batteries. The water and venting thing bothers me less then the thought of having to clean corrosion in a house battery setting
 

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Correct! Larger capacity batteries for the same basic cost or no corrosion. I had 4/6v flooded golf carts in my Sprinter and I spent more time and energy on fighting the corrosion. That’s the one and only reason I went with AGM’s this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It can happen although after 2 1/2 years mine look the same as new. There are sprays. Less batteries of a higher capacity lessen the number of terminals but it is tough to have less than 4 as one 200+ amp hour battery is going to be 120+ pounds.
 

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. . . as one 200+ amp hour battery is going to be 120+ pounds.
RD, you understate. Our 245ah AGM battery weighs-in at 160 pounds.

Incidentally, this used 1 year/last year battery (not re-purposed for use in the ProMaster due to our switch to lithium) remains available.
 

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Can someone point me to information (or a thread here) on a wiring diagram for a power center + inverter? I see a number of inverters come with a charger and automatic transfer switch, I assume in that case the WFCO power center is extraneous and I may as well just use a 12V fuse box and 120V distribution from the inverter output (or a breaker box fed from the inverter output).


Current plan is basically this thread's solar+alternator doing most of the charging of the battery, almost all 12V loads, so shore power is just an occasional nice-to-have for our uses.
 

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That’s exactly how it do it. I only have an AC microwave and I only turn the inverter on when I want to use it. I do have an AC AGM battery charger that runs when I am connected to the grid but that is typically never. My 300 w solar and two AGM’s typically take care of everything. I may recharge them via the alternator if it’s overcastbut even then not typical. My microwave is plugged directly into the inverter. No 120 VAC panel, breaker, etc just a gfi outlet. All 12 VDC is powered thru a Blue Sea 12 volt fuse panel directly off the AGM’s
 

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With the WFCO I'm about to wire up I was going to run the TV and fridge through it so they would be powered by shore power through the wfco whenever I'm plugged in. I could also wire up an extra plug from the wfco for possibly a portable AC or other small appliance to be used when plugged in. I don't plan to have any AC loads normally ever unless it's when I'm plugged into shore power so no need for an inverter.

All other 12v loads I was going to hook to a blue sea DC fuse box.

Would this be the correct/ideal way? I haven't seen much of detailed wiring for setups with the wfco or similar.

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Discussion Starter #28
Doesn’t your WFCO have a few 12 volt fuses in a bus? Mine has 4 so I wired from them. It turned out to be enough. It does work perfectly on shore or battery.
 

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Doesn’t your WFCO have a few 12 volt fuses in a bus? Mine has 4 so I wired from them. It turned out to be enough. It does work perfectly on shore or battery.
Yes, I'm going to wire in the fridge and the TV as those are the only significant loads worth running off shore power whenever I might be plugged in. I am going to look I to the shore power plug and wiring next to get the AC power to the unit. Thanks!

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Discussion Starter #30
Wait- My WFCO powers everything DC all the time. It uses the batteries if not on shore power. It charges the batteries if on shore power and runs the 120 and 12 volt off shore power then. You don’t need anything else except an inverter that can be used like KOV suggests. No extra fuse panel, no extra charger for shore, no extra breakers for shore power, no worry about grounding incorrectly. Just feed the Battery input, the shore power input and then wire up your 12 volt loads for anytime use and the 120Volt loads for when on shore power. That is why it is such a good thing to use especially if one is somewhat sparky challenged!
 

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Wait- My WFCO powers everything DC all the time. It uses the batteries if not on shore power. It charges the batteries if on shore power and runs the 120 and 12 volt off shore power then. You don’t need anything else except an inverter that can be used like KOV suggests. No extra fuse panel, no extra charger for shore, no extra breakers for shore power, no worry about grounding incorrectly. Just feed the Battery input, the shore power input and then wire up your 12 volt loads for anytime use and the 120Volt loads for when on shore power. That is why it is such a good thing to use especially if one is somewhat sparky challenged!
Ok, gotcha! Im getting some lights and the fridge wires ran today.

I'm going to be wiring in the Victron Battery monitor/shunt. There are no grounds (only positive) connections for the wfco. You ran the positives to the wfco and the grounds for the DC items direct to the shunt/battery negative or ground bar, whichever I end up using as long as it's hooked up after the shunt? Or should these be grounded to the van since the wfco itself is grounded to the battery/shunt?

Same question different way lol - When the wfco is powering these devices if their negatives are still grounded at the shunt wouldn't that throw off my battery monitor?

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Discussion Starter #32
I put a ground buss bolted to the chassis near the WFCO and my shunt is connected to the negative side of the battery then the cable goes to a chassis ground. That way ANY current must pass through the shunt. Another way to say it........ Just don’t wire anything on the negative battery side before the shunt. I think you have the concept.
 

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I put a ground buss bolted to the chassis near the WFCO and my shunt is connected to the negative side of the battery then the cable goes to a chassis ground. That way ANY current must pass through the shunt. Another way to say it........ Just don’t wire anything on the negative battery side before the shunt. I think you have the concept.
So if the fridge is powered by the wfco, which is grounded to the shunt then the fridge ground can just be grounded anywhere else and not screw up the battery meter? Am I picking up what your laying down? In my mind I guess I just think that any negative must go through the shunt.

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Yes ground the fridg. or any thing else to the chassis and the electrons go through the shunt. Think of the chassis as a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire on the WFCO. Join any electrical ground to it would be like connecting that wire to the ground wire. It is grounded, completing a circuit, AND it is connected to the battery ground beyond the shunt.

Oh and one more thing...... You might think about installing a battery disconect in the negative cable going to the chassis ground. I did so I can throw the lever and work on any part of my DC system without fearing shorting out anything. I used this one but others are available:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Battery-Disconnect-Kill-Switch/dp/B007O0BBFM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RBQ1GSZQ0VGVVQ0GDQVV&dpID=417jZCVUX1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail[/ame]
 

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Yes ground the fridg. or any thing else to the chassis and the electrons go through the shunt. Think of the chassis as a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire on the WFCO. Join any electrical ground to it would be like connecting that wire to the ground wire. It is grounded, completing a circuit, AND it is connected to the battery ground beyond the shunt.

Oh and one more thing...... You might think about installing a battery disconect in the negative cable going to the chassis ground. I did so I can throw the lever and work on any part of my DC system without fearing shorting out anything. I used this one but others are available:
https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Battery-Disconnect-Kill-Switch/dp/B007O0BBFM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RBQ1GSZQ0VGVVQ0GDQVV&dpID=417jZCVUX1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
Great, thanks for the info. Makes sense.

Good idea about the switch on the negative. I am adding CBs for that same effect everywhere else and I have a spare switch exactly like the one you linked to I can use for the negative.

When hooking up the alternator charging (battery isolator) that does not require anything different with the shunt or do I need to run a negative from the starting to the coach battery as well? Normally it is just the positive ran to the coach battery from the starter battery.

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Discussion Starter #36
I just ran the positive as the starter battery is grounded to the chassis and so is my house battery. One caveat though.... the wire you ground with needs to be as large as the positive running to the starter battery and that red one needs to be fused AT BOTH ENDS as near to the batteries as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I can’t see where I ever posted a schematic of the $700 complete electrical system so here it is.
 

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RD,

No inverter chassis ground wire or is it grounded thru mounting?
No fuse on the battery positive terminal? other than the Stinger fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
RD,
No inverter chassis ground wire or is it grounded thru mounting?
No fuse on the battery positive terminal? other than the Stinger fuse.
Thanks Phil, good eyes!
You are right on the inverter ground. It is not wired into anything and only used when I plug something directly into it like you would if you connected a portable inverter to a battery in your back yard. I’d like to hear why I should ground it in the camper? I’ve had indecision on it. The Positive side of the battery is fused through the same fuse the stinger is connected to.
The inverter is not fused at the battery though the leads are less than 2 feet and protected on both ends. I am thinking that should have a 150 amp fuse.
I hope this helps those who want a basic electrical system with solar, shore power, and alternator interconnect.

Yes KOV and the Red Sox game got postponed. BTW I did create the diagram some time ago but failed to post it up. I just noticed my tinypic.com picture links are not working. I’ve left them a message.
 
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