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Discussion Starter #3
yes, it will not get a easy life. I will have a ranger shelving package in there also so only the side door will have pallets slid on it.
 

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@OCCS,

That floor looks very neat. Good job!

I am sorry that our floor did not hit your budget. Thank you very much for your interest though. I understand than when comparing our products to the raw materials you were using we are not as competitive.

The added value that we like to give is a pre-finished floor for those that don't have the time to do it themselves. It also looks like you have some very good skills in that department, where other may not.

You may be interested in our Protecta Sill Plates, as they will help those loading edges from getting bashed.

Regards,

Kyle Carpani
 

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@OCCS,

That floor looks very neat. Good job!

I am sorry that our floor did not hit your budget. Thank you very much for your interest though. I understand than when comparing our products to the raw materials you were using we are not as competitive.

The added value that we like to give is a pre-finished floor for those that don't have the time to do it themselves. It also looks like you have some very good skills in that department, where other may not.

You may be interested in our Protecta Sill Plates, as they will help those loading edges from getting bashed.

Regards,

Kyle Carpani
Haven't see your floor, Kyle, but one thing for sure, I would not recommend the factory option floor I have: Looks good but it is thin and not isolated. I would remove it, but I think it's glued for eternity.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
to anyone that may be going with a ranger partion(3010,3020 model) don't put your floor down first. the little bump out in the front will have to be cut!!!
 

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Haven't see your floor, Kyle, but one thing for sure, I would not recommend the factory option floor I have: Looks good but it is thin and not isolated. I would remove it, but I think it's glued for eternity.
Yes, our floors are almost double the thickness of the factory floor, and are a lot harder wearing. Too bad your floor is glued, that is a pain. We do have rubber mats that you can put on top of that floor for protection and added non-slip.
 

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Kyle's wood floor is a really nice product, I installed it last week and then put my Ranger design shelves in. I slid the shelves around on it, slid my tools around on it. And not even a scratch, I needed something very durable for sliding old furnaces and sheet metal in the truck after a changeout and I am sure this will hold up just fine, my old sprinter had a similar floor and it held up for 8 years before it started to show signs of wear. I think this will hold up just as well.
Thanks Kyle!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well 4 month's have passed and about 500 pallets and condensing units have been dragged across it. all I can say is I have no regrets. the epoxy is really hard once cured.
 

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I just installed 3/4" rubber horse mats in the back over the factory wood floor (too slippery). The mats are very heavy but will cut with a razor knife. Cost $130 for 3 mats 4'x6' at tractor supply.
 

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Hows its coming along now? I'm getting ready to tackle this exact same thing you just did! I will only have a chair rolling across mine. Keep us updated! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
been very busy too say the least. the floor is still going strong. I will have a few touch up's due to nails dragging from pallets or equipment. to the poster wanting to know about bolting down. I have a ranger bin package installed. most of my bolting was utilized through the original d ring bolts that were counter sunk.
 

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We load 2,000 lb pallets in ours all the time. I like the Legend HD Ultrafloor but after getting quoted $1300 for it I bought some 3/4 plywood, some 3/4 aluminum channel to protect the wood at the door openings, a few allen head bolts to replace the stock tie downs to hold it to the floor and some rolls of camper weather strip foam to lay down over the stock ribs to prevent squeaking and a bucket of bedliner. After coating the wood with bedliner twice I added some e-track all the way down each side for tie down points. Total cost about $400 including brand new 16 ft e-track straps.

Works great so far.
 

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We load 2,000 lb pallets in ours all the time. I like the Legend HD Ultrafloor but after getting quoted $1300 for it I bought some 3/4 plywood, some 3/4 aluminum channel to protect the wood at the door openings, a few allen head bolts to replace the stock tie downs to hold it to the floor and some rolls of camper weather strip foam to lay down over the stock ribs to prevent squeaking and a bucket of bedliner. After coating the wood with bedliner twice I added some e-track all the way down each side for tie down points. Total cost about $400 including brand new 16 ft e-track straps.

Works great so far.
I did something similar. I put down 3/4" Advantech. glued down with F26 and screwed down with tech screws. I filled the screw holes and tongue and groove seams with bondo and sanded smooth. I then had the floor sprayed with Bullet Liner. Life time guarantee on the bullet liner. It is really nice. Very slip resistant I have $650 in it total.

-t
 
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