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Like I mentioned before, the charger is failing to recognize you have a 12Vbattery due to being drains so low.

It’s going into maintenance mode at 9V because it thinks you have a 6V battery.

You need to trick the charger into switching back to 12v by creating a temporary 12v surface charge. You should be able to do this with your boostpack.

1) connect the charger to the battery, but DO NOT plug the charger into the ac outlet.
2) connect your booster to the battery and turn the booster ON
3) now plug in the battery charger to ac outlet. It will read correct voltage from the booster
and go into the proper 12v charge mode.
4) disconnect boost pack
5) start up van the next morning and party like it’s 1699
 

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A sulphated battery can appear to charge and even reach fully charged potential while charging, thus indicating 100% charged at some point, and even triggering maintenance mode on smart chargers. In order to really measure the true charge state of a lead acid battery (flooded or otherwise), a load has to be applied while voltage is measured. One of these will do the trick nicely: Tester

Automotive lighting Magenta Rectangle Electric blue Fashion accessory


And if a battery really must be relied upon (i.e. you can't afford to be stranded by an old battery on a trip), then measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each and every cell with one of these: Battery Hydrometer

Product Clock Measuring instrument Font Circle
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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I now know that. But charger was saying that battery was 100 percent charged. Is there benefit to more charging, if battery is 100 percent charged?
If you measure the voltage while charging they we will know if it is beneficial.

As mentioned, the charger might not be seeing your battery because of it's low state of charge. I had an older version of your charger and I could choose the display info. Can you select voltage instead of percent?
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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1,528 Posts
From the manual

USING THE BATTERY VOLTAGE TESTER
1.
With the charger unplugged from the AC outlet, connect the charger to the battery following the instructions given in previous sections.
2.
Plug the charger AC power cord into the AC outlet.
3.
If necessary, press the BATTERY TYPE button until the correct type is indicated.
4.
Read the voltage on the digital display. Keep in mind that this reading is only a battery voltage reading; a false surface charge may mislead you. Compare the reading
to the chart below.
6V Battery Voltage Reading
12V Battery Voltage Reading
Battery Condition
6.4 or more
12.8 or more
Charged
6.1 to 6.3
12.2 to 12.7
Needs charging
Less than 6.1
Less than 12.2
Discharged
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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1,528 Posts
This is probably exactly what is happening when you try to charge and why the charger thinks your battery is already at 100%. We used to use the procedure below to get automatic chargers started.
We would even bump a 12 volt battery with 24 volts to wake it up with a surface charge. That was a long time ago in a place that serviced wheelchairs, carts and other mobility devices.

Like I mentioned before, the charger is failing to recognize you have a 12Vbattery due to being drains so low.

It’s going into maintenance mode at 9V because it thinks you have a 6V battery.

You need to trick the charger into switching back to 12v by creating a temporary 12v surface charge. You should be able to do this with your boostpack.

1) connect the charger to the battery, but DO NOT plug the charger into the ac outlet.
2) connect your booster to the battery and turn the booster ON
3) now plug in the battery charger to ac outlet. It will read correct voltage from the booster
and go into the proper 12v charge mode.
4) disconnect boost pack
5) start up van the next morning and party like it’s 1699
 

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Administrator
‘20 159 HT window van NH Seacoast
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That is a problem with that charger. I have the same one and I hardly ever use it because of that very reason. You need a good charger that you can select the battery type & voltage Instead of some mindless computer chip doing it for you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Update. Just got a call from the dealership (not the dealership that sold me the vehicle).Power distribution board is melted. Apparently the original dealership had picked up on on electrical short, due to crimped wires, that they repaired. Apparently they botched the repair or there are more crimped wires/electrical issues. Service place can not test until they get new board, which they can not give an ETA on.
What do the wise members of the forum say? File lemon law claim and return the vehicle or wait it out?
 

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Did your van come with any aftermarket/dealer-installed options like an alarm, auxiliary lighting, trailer wiring, aftermarket stereo system, daytimr running lights, etc? I'm assuming your remote start was a factory option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I really do not know what was installed in the factory and what the dealer installed. I was basically on every waiting list in the country. Dealer called, that vehicle was available, I went I paid, I drove. There is a remote start but again I have no idea if that was factory installed or dealer installed. Ditto with alarm and everything else.
 

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I really do not know what was installed in the factory and what the dealer installed. I was basically on every waiting list in the country. Dealer called, that vehicle was available, I went I paid, I drove. There is a remote start but again I have no idea if that was factory installed or dealer installed. Ditto with alarm and everything else.
Check the window sticker you.gotnwith the van. It will list all factory options and dealer installed equipment separately.
 

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Update. Just got a call from the dealership (not the dealership that sold me the vehicle).Power distribution board is melted. Apparently the original dealership had picked up on on electrical short, due to crimped wires, that they repaired. Apparently they botched the repair or there are more crimped wires/electrical issues. Service place can not test until they get new board, which they can not give an ETA on.
What do the wise members of the forum say? File lemon law claim and return the vehicle or wait it out?
I'd be getting nervous about this vehicle. You should start documenting all of this very carefully.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

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Here is the window sticker
Ok looks like all of the electronics you've mentioned so far are factory installed options (alarm, remote start).

Any dealer installed options is usually on another sheet of paper attached direction onto the factory window sticker or next to it. If you didn't get another list and your purchase price was based only on the price shown on what younjust posted, there aren't additional dealer-installed options.

My amateur campervan-ning assessment is that they may have tried to install something but failed (commonly a satellite GPS tracker, that they try to pass the cost and service onto you), or removed it entirely, which is now causing the electrical problem. The crimps definitely mean things were altered, and damage could have resulted before or after you got the van.

Best to keep a notebook and document every little thing that comes up. Keep pictures and videos with your phone and note the date/time in your book to refer back to. Electrical problems are the worst to deal with. And lemon laws take a lot of time (months/years) to resolve if it gets to that point.
 

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2018 Promaster 2500 159" High Roof
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I only ask because tint shops usually do both, and they run down your battery playing the radio while they’re working.
I believe this is what happened. Similar thing happened to my 2018 when I was installing new headlights--played radio for a long time. Crazy thing is one of the indicators is check engine! If you read the code, you will find it has to do with low voltage. Mine said something like low voltage detected for more than 60 seconds while engine running, BUT engine was never running. After charging up the battery by driving, I disconnected negative on battery to clear code and dummy lights. Never had an issue again, until I was doing something else where I left the radio on for a long time.
 

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Update. Just got a call from the dealership (not the dealership that sold me the vehicle).Power distribution board is melted. Apparently the original dealership had picked up on on electrical short, due to crimped wires, that they repaired. Apparently they botched the repair or there are more crimped wires/electrical issues. Service place can not test until they get new board, which they can not give an ETA on.
What do the wise members of the forum say? File lemon law claim and return the vehicle or wait it out?
Get a written report from the "repairing" dealer. If you do not understand all that was wrong and fixed get them to list that in writing also. Get as much information and get as informed as you can on topic. Get a written statement directly from Ram if you can. Ask for an extended written warranty around this issue (something to your liking). There could be latent defects unknown to you at this point that will come into play after the warranty expires.

Then decide about the lemon laws (I'm Canadian so won't pretend I know the Laws of Your Land).

Get @RamCares involved now. Do your best to get the truth out of the Dealer & Ram (again ask for everything in writing - even the story of how your van got to this point).

A melted power distribution board - Why did this happen ?? Dead Short & no fuse in play ??

At least you are getting somewhere with it

Sorry for your bad news.


And Finally after re-reading the above ,,, this is for @Sather

 
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