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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting a thread to document my build now that I’m a little into it. Starting with a new 2021 159” High Roof and the big design challenge will be to see if I can leave room to occasionally fit a motorcycle in the back. Planning 660 Ah Lithium batteries, 680w solar and under mount AC, too.

The blank canvas:

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Sound deadening
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Insulating above the cab with Thinsulate
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Got carried away a little filling the corrugations with minicell…
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Floor layers: minicell, .5” XPS, .75” BB
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Floor sandwich
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Finished subfloor. BB is biscuit-jointed together and painted with Kilz just in case. Also successfully drilled holes in all the right places for access to all the tie downs (after this picture was taken)
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Stealth rack from Orion Van Gear…the plan next week is to squeeze two 340w Panasonic panels at the front of the roof
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Fan install went smoothly although cutting into a new van was of course a brief mental obstacle. Hein’s adapter worked great to fit the corrugations up there and made the only challenge positioning the hole getting it right front-to-back.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ll try to frame the walls with 1x3s using Rivnuts so I can put foam tape and Reflectex behind the framing. After test-fitting some framing this way, I think I can fit .5” XPS, Thinsulate 600, and still have at least one air gap for the Reflectex.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is the evaporator from the ProAir under mount system sitting snugly in the “pizza oven”, which could be a good place to have it cool hotter air from the top of the van and keep it out of the way with good air flow across the ceiling. We’ll see if I can anchor it there while keeping it serviceable and also run hoses and electrical up there. The B or C pillars seem like possible routes from underneath.
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2017 136” HR
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Don’t forget to put self leveling sealant (e.g Dicor) over the screws of the MaxxAir on the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Don’t forget to put self leveling sealant (e.g Dicor) over the screws of the MaxxAir on the roof.
I actually used (clear) FlexSeal which Hein listed as an alternative in his directions. Do you think that’s equivalent to Dicor?
 

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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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Looking good! Can't wait to see how your layout accommodates your motorcycle challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looking good! Can't wait to see how your layout accommodates your motorcycle challenge.
It will be a challenge…I might have to use a small ATV winch to load the bike backwards so the widest part (handlebars) is in the garage vs sticking into the galley so I can keep the front part of the layout more traditional by not having to accommodate that additional space in the center aisle.
 

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I actually used (clear) FlexSeal which Hein listed as an alternative in his directions. Do you think that’s equivalent to Dicor?
Unfortunately I personally don’t have experience with FlexSeal products, so I’m of no help.
 
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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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It will be a challenge…I might have to use a small ATV winch to load the bike backwards so the widest part (handlebars) is in the garage vs sticking into the galley so I can keep the front part of the layout more traditional by not having to accommodate that additional space in the center aisle.
I never thought about how huge motorcycles actually are!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I never thought about how huge motorcycles actually are!
Me either…my bikes are around 7’ from the front of the front tire to the rear of the rear tire, so they will definitely be intruding into the galley area when loaded. The idea is to only have them inside for transport though. Plan B is just rent a trailer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finished the ceiling and wall framing, but it’s all going to be removed next to paint it with Kilz and finish the insulation behind it before finally re-assembling it with glue. I’m waiting to do the very bottom until I layout exactly where my batteries, other electrical, water, and cabinet

All the framing could be removed in about ten minutes at this point. I have to look at the width I’ve got left for the bed to make sure I didn’t make things too narrow back there…I’ve got room to add another 1/2” of XPS on top of this layer and still include Thinsulate 600 and an air gap for the Reflectex. That would be awesome in terms of insulation but maybe not for maximizing interior space. The bed also needs a straight path since it will be in a motorized lift so it can be up when the bike is loaded but down at other times.

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If your counters are narrow, you can do it. Wide counters are wasted space anyway.
 

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how you feelin' about those corner braces you used on your 80/20 roof rack? i'm doing a similar one w/ 80/20 tho i'm doing 12 solar panels and they're hoisted several inches above the roof to clear the a/c and roof vents. think they're strong enough? they're sooo much cheaper than any of the 80/20 brand connectors. many of which require machining...
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
how you feelin' about those corner braces you used on your 80/20 roof rack? i'm doing a similar one w/ 80/20 tho i'm doing 12 solar panels and they're hoisted several inches above the roof to clear the a/c and roof vents. think they're strong enough? they're sooo much cheaper than any of the 80/20 brand connectors. many of which require machining...
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They came with the rack and seem strong enough for the design. I was surprised at how light they were…
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The frame came out in about five minutes in one piece for painting and insulating behind it. Also added a conduit with a pull string so I can easily route roof accessory wires from the B pillar to the rear camera housing.
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