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The promoter is back at the shop again. Rear parking brake is locking up. This van is starting to become a garage queen. New parking brake cables are ordered.
 

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Mine did this too, anytime temperatures were below 30*f it would freeze. Mine had moisture in the sheathing from the wheel/hub up to the "y" splitter and would occasionally be able to be "freed" by whacking the cables.

Mine was covered under warranty and was fixed at roughly 25k miles, but it took a lot of trips to the dealer because they would store the van indoors waiting to be examined and was just enough to thaw the cables and the technicians couldn't replicate the problems. I figured it out on the side of the road and had to explain the problem/solution and they ordered the new replacement cables.
 

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In 50+ years of vehicle ownership in NH and VT and owing 20+ cars and trucks I never owned one in which this did NOT happen. This cable type system is built to fail in such circumstances. It is not a Promaster problem but a cable actuation problem. Don’t use it in winter, or spend winters in AZ (my solution)
 

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We recently had a parking brake issue on our diesel. Temps were in the 20s (F), drove it across town and back. Parked it on the street on the snow instead of our slippery driveway, and later backed it up into snow on the street. Went to leave the next morning, I was following her leaving the house and the left rear was not spinning as it slid along on the packed snow. It set off all kinds of warnings for abs, hill hold, etc. It moved fine once we reached dry pavement, and the error messages cleared out after two restarts.

I'm fairly sure that I backed the left rear right into a snow pile, and that probably froze the parking brake (cable) on that side.
 

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Has anyone found an effective lubricant that may help prevent freezing?
 

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With the past two weeks weather in Idaho a wintery mix of snow, sleet and frozen temps I've been experiencing all of the above. One trip to the dealer, to get the same diagnosis and a service tech's shrugged shoulders when I asked how they want to handle this moving forward and I am back to locked up. Good times.
 

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Has anyone found an effective lubricant that may help prevent freezing?-----I would think silicone spray,does'nt attract dirt
 

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WD-40 was created for “Water Displacement” and after 39 tries they go one that worked. It’s no miracle but in the days I lived so far from a road that I used a snowmobile to get to my car for work I carried it in a tool box on the back of the seat to free up the throttle cable. No unfreeze no go. It was often 2’ of new snow, then temps dropped to well below zero and the snow machine sat all day outside even in rain and then freezing. (Research North East Kingdom-Vermont, what we locals call “The Kingdom") Simple short cables are easier to treat than long complex ones. See post #3 for a foolproof solution I guarantee to work. BTW, I still miss that time!
 

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Just want to point out that this is not just a diesel ProMaster problem as I've had it with my gas one too. The dealer replaced the cables and it worked for the rest of the winter but the next winter it froze up again. I stopped using it for now but you diesel guys can't really do that. I think they have a real problem on their hands. I'm hoping the electric parking brake does away with all the cables and if it does I may install that.
 

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Sure we can. Put the transmission in “D” or “R” and shut off the ignition. The buzzer will sound and the dash will tell you to engage the emergency brake until you remove the key. The van will be in low gear or reverse and that will keep you where you are! No problem, no frozen Ebrake!
I believe the brake mechanism is the same except for routing possibly. It’s a cable activated emergency brake problem.
 

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I have had the same problem this winter with my 2014 Diesel. They said it was not warranty and charged me 545.00 plus labor. Also replaced my rear brakes at the same time... 26,000 miles. Extremely disgusted with my ProMaster. I have had the van in the shop at least 5 times in less than 2 years for numerous things!

Did your dealer Warranty the emergency brake / cables???
 

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I have had the same problem this winter with my 2014 Diesel. They said it was not warranty and charged me 545.00 plus labor. Also replaced my rear brakes at the same time... 26,000 miles. Extremely disgusted with my ProMaster. I have had the van in the shop at least 5 times in less than 2 years for numerous things!

Did your dealer Warranty the emergency brake / cables???
My dealer covered this under warranty. They told me at first it was not covered and I called Chrysler direct and explained the situation and they contacted the dealer and covered everything. It is true the brake pads etc. have a 12k mile warranty but it was caused by the frozen brake cable. They replaced everything last year for me and it worked fine until this winter and it started doing it again. I don't set my parking brake at night in the winter anymore but I do use it during the day when it's above freezing. I think you have to with a diesel because it doesn't have a parking pall like the automatic trans does.
 

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In backcountry skiing it is common to use silicone lubricant to prevent icing on boots and bindings.. that is what I would try first. FWIW, I haven't experienced this issue even with the very cold big snow year here so far.
 

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All newly registered members MUST make an introductory post in the Introductory Post Forum as per forum rules. "Promasterforum.com Introduction Section " Please be aware until you do make the required introductory post any posts you make may be deleted.
The promoter is back at the shop again. Rear parking brake is locking up. This van is starting to become a garage queen. New parking brake cables are ordered.
FIX FOR PROMASTER RAM 2500 PARKING BRAKE STICKING I have come across 2 of these with low miles, under 15k with this issue. The source of this issue is the linkage underneath the van, not any of the parking brake cables or brake hardware failing. The part is stupid expensive for what it is, so here is an easy fix. Grab a 13mm and 10mm 6point socket, go underneath and loosen the nuts on the linkage, spray with penetrating oil and work back and forth. (I literally had to whack it with a hammer on one of them, back and forth until it loosened up) then thread on the 13mm locknut backwards only a few threads until it won't back out by itself, and keep the 10mm locknut loose with only about 2-3 threads showing. This allows plenty of play in the linkage to un-seize and not seize up again. It is an incredibly stupid design and fails almost off the lot. Hope this helps!
 

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2021 3500 Extended
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That photo is a poster child for annual Fluid Film application.
 

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2017 Promaster 3500 Ext.
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Thanks for this! My dealer offered to change out my rear cables for $500 and I suspect this is the issue.
 

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2015 diesel 118" wheelbase 3/15 build Mexico
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The promoter is back at the shop again. Rear parking brake is locking up. This van is starting to become a garage queen. New parking brake cables are ordered.
You mean poor bast**d
 
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