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When re-energized the radio needed a code, and the date, A & B miles, averages, and time needed reseting. PITA.
Bummer. Disconnecting the battery is one of my SOPs for many automotive projects. I don't mind resetting a code, I've always had to do that in my Audi. The bummer is losing the A/B trip meter info. Or do you get to enter it back in and keep going? (I'm keeping my trip B meter for my overall, or at least for a long term)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Good question but I didn't know I would loose them so I have only vague numbers to put in.
 

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I will install the eurocamper swivel passenger seat in a few days. What's that radio code you are talking about ? Is it specific to the vehicle ?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
When you get the vehicle there is a tiny slip of paper stuck to a 2" X 3" piece of cardboard with a 4 digit code to unlock the radio when power is returned to it. The radio comes up requesting the code and you use the first 4 preset buttons to input the code. Until that is done no radio. Disclaimer: I have the cheapo base radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I got the Rams off the PM and replaced them with Fiat badges and found a Ducato emblem on ebay, and wheel centers too. Then I began on the bed/sofa frame. The slats are from Ikea as is the mattress I will put on it. I plan to cut the matress into three pieces two will be 8" wide by the long length to make bolsters for the back when the wider section is on the closed bed frame for a couch during the day. That will make a 20" by 75" sofa and when all three pieces are placed on the open bed it will be 54" by 75"
 

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RD,

I take a week and a half vacation and you've got the van half built! Looks good.

It looks like you mounted the hoops on the bottom of the rail. I mounted mine on the inside. Mine are recessed in a bit but work perfectly for me and my wife. What a difference! I think mine measure at 9" high.

I like the Fiat look. I left my RAM and 2500 letters on, but took off the red Promaster emblem on the sides and back. Looked too much like the van was made by Craftsmen (Sears)!

Keep going! I added some stuff and am now working on a partition that is 27" forward of the back doors. That is just behind the end of my side by side couches, and will form a "trunk" for stuff in the back, or a porta potti private area and clothes hanger area in the back (once I figure out how to mount some pocket doors in my design).....

Enjoy,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Today I got the two cheapo windows I bought off ebay installed. They are Kinro awnings and have crank out bottom sections. I was limited to about 15-18 inches top to bottom because I will have a raised floor under the dinette and the table is going to be well above the horizontal rib inside. These windows were 30" wide by 15" tall. $143 for the pair. I used an extra layer of rigid Polyisocyanurate in a ring around them to get the wall to 2" so the trim ring would pull the window tight. All went well, thanks to KOV.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I worked on the dinette and roughed out the floor and the bench, I need to do the seat, cushion, cut a radius in the floor, interior bracing, install the batteries inside the seat base, cut a couple of doors for drawers, install the drawers and slides, and polyurethane everything. At least everything fits, there is room for a reasonable table, and I have 2 feet behind it for a shower pan when we decide to go that route. Porta-pottie cabinet for now. Galley roughed out next then wiring and finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Thanks. The sidewall panels are a factory option. Upper and lower panels $390. I am happy with them as they have been off to insulate and can be removed to add wiring or whatever. I ordered the van so I opted for them. I wish similar ones were available for the top section of the HT. I will add overhead cabinets so much of that will be covered but with panels I could have built the top cabinets without backs.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I have been working on installing the Espar heater and am close to done, just need to wire it to the system and add the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
Steps: Decide where to put it, Check under the van, use the Greenlee punches to make nice holes, attach it and seal the floor, wrangle the wires, attach the air feed and exhaust, replace the dinette floor!
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
KOV-Sarcasm is so unbecoming,
I have added one of the overhead cabinets, same design as the base cabinets, maple plywood, doors cut out, hinges and catches added as the cut is being made and two coats of polyurethane to finish. Light, fast, simple and strong. Kind of unconventional cabinets compared to any I have ever built but perfect for my wants.
I am doing the wiring at the same time and the second picture shows the area the converter, bus bars, and solar controller will go in the cabinet along the driver's side. You can see the framing attached to the van with rivnuts to hold the cabinets. Once the cabinet panels are glued to the framing they can be removed as an assembly by taking out the bolts from the rivnuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I got the wiring at the converter and solar controller installed a couple of days ago and this morning I decided it was time to test the Espar heater. Switched it on and waited through the diagnostics and chose Fahrenheit set to 68 degrees. It took almost 20 minutes to get the van from 48 degrees to 68 but then it settled down to a low fan and reasonably quiet supply of nice warm air. The fuel pump which is outside "ticks" like a clock, slower on the low setting and on high it is drowned out by the fan noise. Even on high the heater is much quieter than the propane heater we had in our former truck camper which was too loud to sleep to and would cycle on and off like a series of jet planes taking off. This is a spendy option but we are apt to be where it is cold more than where it is hot.
 

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