Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone with advice or pictures or links on how they framed the back of their van to allow a full bed width across the back of the van. Having a hard time visualizing how to frame and panel around the platform med while not loosing much needed space as I am 6’3 TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
I put a bed frame rail along the side, bolted it on.
Then used a tri-fold aluminum ATV ramp side to side. My ramps came with grooves to slide in thin plywood so the mattress does not go through the gaps. But have since seen squares with holes that would provide better ventilation for the bed to breathe.
If you only put in inch insulation on the walls you would gain there.
Thought about going rv queen length wise but the double bed is fine for me at 5' 11".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I anchored a 2x6 piece of wood with (4) nuts and bolts on either side of the van. On top of the 2x6 is 2x3 wood and on top of the 2x3 is 3/4" plywood. This method alone will sag ever so slightly so I would recommend adding some type of support in the middle of the bed down to the floor.
bed frame.JPG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
149 Posts
I did the same thing that Vanz did above me ^^. However I bought 3 IKEA skorva bed joists and screwed them into the 2x6 that he has mounted on the wall to make it not sag in the middle. Be forewarned though you have to be really careful with the rivnuts on that side wall, one pulled out and started rotating effectively stripping it, so if I ever needed to remove the 2x6 on the sidewall I would have to cut it out with something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
We're also currently building using the same method as Vanz above - we are using 2x6 with 5 Cross-Nuts (instead of Rivnuts) bolted into the horizontal support. We'll then have 3 - 2x4's spanning across the width of the van between the 2x6's, connected with screws and an L bracket. I purchased the IKEA bed slats that will run perpendicular to the 2/4's to provide the mattress a little extra support and spring.

Creid's comment about the rivnuts is one to heed for sure. We had two rivnuts strip and start spinning on us, making us doubt the strength of the ones installed on both sides. We decided to drill new holes and purchased pre-bulbed Cross Nuts(plus nuts) to use instead. They have better grip strength and shear strength and are less likely to strip. Typically if the rivnut starts spinning like that it's an indicator that it wasn't compressed all the way when installed.

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,414 Posts
Typically that happen because the wrong size insert hole was drilled!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
I used 2x4 for the verticle legs and a rectangular frame. Then I used 2x3 about 16" apart for my slats and screwed and glued that all together. I used a 2x6 for the face to keep the mattress put. I secured it to the subfloor with L brackets, plus I built it in the van for a super tight fit.
It's only using a little more room than the other people without the legs. I'm 6'1" and there are a couple of inches remaining.
20190519_140637.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
I attached 2x4s to the horizontal rails using the existing tie-down locations - no rivnuts, crossnuts, or drilling needed.

68989
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
1605917492009.png
I like aluminum. Put plywood with holes for ventilation. Bed rails for bed rails, simple bolt up.
1500lb cap, good for a bounce wif phat Doris.
Picked up a queen mattress this year, need to do a little trimming.
 

·
Registered
2018 Silver 159 HT
Joined
·
202 Posts
We used aluminum angle that supports a IKEA adjustable queen bed. Most of the aluminum came from the scrapyard. Our bed goes North and South, I'm 6-3 and didn't fit sideways. We also didn't use wood framing, the paneling is screwed right to the van framing.
68990
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top