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    1. · Registered
      370 Posts
      Yes ground the fridg. or any thing else to the chassis and the electrons go through the shunt. Think of the chassis as a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire on the WFCO. Join any electrical ground to it would be like connecting that wire to the ground wire. It is grounded, completing a circuit, AND it is connected to the battery ground beyond the shunt.

      Oh and one more thing...... You might think about installing a battery disconect in the negative cable going to the chassis ground. I did so I can throw the lever and work on any part of my DC system without fearing shorting out anything. I used this one but others are available:
      Great, thanks for the info. Makes sense.

      Good idea about the switch on the negative. I am adding CBs for that same effect everywhere else and I have a spare switch exactly like the one you linked to I can use for the negative.

      When hooking up the alternator charging (battery isolator) that does not require anything different with the shunt or do I need to run a negative from the starting to the coach battery as well? Normally it is just the positive ran to the coach battery from the starter battery.

      Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    1. · Premium Member
      8,970 Posts
      I switched the solar output so I can isolate the power sources for diagnostic and working on the circuits. If the Sun's shining you have a charged system. I second the RV style converter for anyone who is a bit shaky on their sparky knowledge. It does the ground properly which is often misunderstood.
      Install the battery shut off on the wire from the battery negative to ground. That isolates the system with one switch. Use the Blue Sea site for sizing wire and remember the fuse is there to protect the circuit including the wire. Don’t let the wire be the fuse.


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