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1,200-Watt Pure Sine Inverter with Automatic Transfer Switch 12-Volt DC to 120-Volt AC ETL Listed to UL 458

1,200-Watt Pure Sine Inverter with Automatic Transfer Switch 12-Volt DC to 120-Volt AC ETL Listed to UL 458

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$413 USD on The Home Depot
1200-Watt Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer Switch - ETL Certified to conform to UL 458 standards. This inverter is ideal for built-in RV refrigerators or other appliances. Easy to install. The inverter will switch between shore power and battery power without any extra wires. Many RV'ers and mobile businesses like to use residential size refrigerators and this is the perfect solution. Smaller microwaves and coffee pots are also common uses for this inverter. 1 of the standards of UL 458 is that all AC inverters pass a High Voltage Dielectric Withstand Test, commonly called the Hi-Pot Test. The voltage applied to the control is usually equal to 1,000-Volt, plus 2 times the line voltage rating of the inverter. Therefore, the standard hi-pot voltage for 115-Volt AC inverter is 1,250-Volt AC. For 230-Volt AC or dual voltage inverters, the hi-pot voltage is 1,500-Volt AC. This AIMS POWER inverter is hi-pot tested before it leaves the factory, with a UL Certified hi-pot tester, set to the voltages shown above. 1200-Watt continuous power 2400-Watt surge power Pure sine wave DC input Voltage 10-Volt to 16-Volt AC output Voltage 120-Volt AC plus/minus 10% Efficiency 86-90% Over Voltage shutdown 16-Volt DC plus/minus /0.5-Volt Under Voltage shutdown 10-Volt DC plus/minus 0.5-Volt Over temp protection 150F plus/minus 5F Thermal fan No load current 1.2 Amp Direct connect terminal block Click here for more information on Electronic Recycling Programs California residents

Forum Discussions about this Product

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
  1. NZchill

    Auxiliary switches

    9
    6K
     by shreddagorge
    1. shreddagorge

      · Registered
      2018 2500 159-HR
      Joined
      ·
      449 Posts
      #8 ·
      NZchill said:
      I am doing a camper build and would like to charge batteries while I'm driving (in addition to solar)...
      Click to expand...
      I use the Kisae DMT-1250 for that purpose, but make liberal use of the search function on this forum and you'll find ample options. I'm also using the AIMS Power 1200W switching inverter for what little AC that we actually use, and a MeanWell 12v DC power supply for when we're on shore power. I wired in a DPDT three-way switch to manually select between the two 100 AH Battle Born house batteries, disconnect the DC fuse block, or to turn on the MeanWell to power DC (assuming shore power is plugged in).

      I'm not really sure what you meant by auxiliary switches. I'm feeding the DMT-1250 with 4 AWG wire spliced from where I cut that black and yellow connector (pictured by pjoconnor2001 above) out of the way. Heck, I should take some pictures to post in the electrical forum...
       
    2. MaggieMarty

      · Registered
      2017 136” HR
      Joined
      ·
      937 Posts
      #9 ·
      shreddagorge said:
      I use the Kisae DMT-1250 for that purpose, but make liberal use of the search function on this forum and you'll find ample options. I'm also using the AIMS Power 1200W switching inverter for what little AC that we actually use, and a MeanWell 12v DC power supply for when we're on shore power. I wired in a DPDT three-way switch to manually select between the two 100 AH Battle Born house batteries, disconnect the DC fuse block, or to turn on the MeanWell to power DC (assuming shore power is plugged in).

      I'm not really sure what you meant by auxiliary switches. I'm feeding the DMT-1250 with 4 AWG wire spliced from where I cut that black and yellow connector (pictured by pjoconnor2001 above) out of the way. Heck, I should take some pictures to post in the electrical forum...
      Click to expand...
      I have been eying that Kisae DMT-1250 for a while now. I’ll have one Battleborn to start and might or might not add a 2nd one down the road.
      How long have you been using the Kisae and are you happy with it? How much solar do you have?
       
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  2. Eagle765

    Electrical Plan (w/diagram) - Appreciate Any Feedback

    13
    4K
     by RPM2020
    1. shreddagorge

      · Registered
      2018 2500 159-HR
      Joined
      ·
      449 Posts
      #3 ·
      I second the DMT-1250 or a DMT-1230, especially after reading some peoples' issues with the Renogy (which also needs an ignition input). I've built out a system with two Battle Born 100 Ah batteries charging through the DMT-1250 with just with the alternator (for now no solar), and am using an AIMS Power 1200W switching inverter which picks up the shore AC power regardless if it's connected to DC or not.

      Previously I didn't have an AC charger, but I did have a 340W 12v DC power supply with a shore power relay connected to my two DC fuse boxes (fore and aft). After consulting with Battle Born and reading this article, my PowerMax PM3-45LK arrives in 4 days. This should simplify my current Rube Goldberg wiring scheme, supplying the DC loads and/or charging the batteries when on shore AC power.

      Considering my use cases, we do short stays after relatively long drives, so I assumed the alternator charging was sufficient. In reality I am still doing lots of tinkering and frequently sleep in the van in my driveway (to avoid either heat or noise - I'm an early riser but my family isn't), so the AC charger seems a worthwhile investment.

      Also I picked up a 12v DC laptop charger for $25 from Amazon. It gets good ratings but I haven't used it yet. (I figured DC-DC charging should be more efficient; not sure how quickly a 12v supply will charge an 18v laptop, but we'll see).
       
  3. G

    Inverter to AC Outlet Wiring

    2
    22
    9K
     by Somebodyelse
    1. shreddagorge

      · Registered
      2018 2500 159-HR
      Joined
      ·
      449 Posts
      #16 · (Edited)
      My thought was extension cord to lugs screwed into outlets, and as @mjm6 indicates you can use a junction somewhere if necessary, or daisy-chain the outlets. Look at heat ratings for the cord, not just the wire gauge. For the size inverter you have I'd think 14 AWG would be fine for reasonable lengths of 15A circuitry, but no harm in 12 AWG of course.

      Full disclosure: I used 12 AWG romex hardwired to my 1200W inverter output; input is a ~12" 14 AWG plug into an onboard shore-power outlet (12 AWG stranded).
       
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

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