Should I remove factory wood floor to insulate? - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 112 Old 02-20-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
ShaunB
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Should I remove factory wood floor to insulate?

i'm planning on following Gary's (buildagreenRV) floor insulation approach, namely foam polyiso boards with plywood on top. The van that I have (3500 Ext) came with the wood floor option. It's not something I wanted but now I have to choose between adding insulation and floor covering over top of the wood floor or ripping it out and starting fresh from the bare metal. My concern is that I want the greatest R value AND the most headroom. The wood floor is about 5/8" so I only have room for about 3/4" polyiso foam board, 1/4" plywood and then my finished flooring (as yet TBD). I'm 6'2"+ so my total flooring solution can't be more than 2".

Has anyone ripped out the floor? Am I crazy to consider it? My ideal solution would be 1 1/2" foam, 1/4" ply, and then finished floor material.

Any thoughts would be appreciated on this.

Thanks
Shaun

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #2 of 112 Old 02-21-2017, 01:42 AM
medicineman4040
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For me ceiling insulation trumps floor insulation.
Not as tall being 6 even, we elected to use BedRug + KK-Plus for
the total floor install.
Spent the day insulating (ac/solar/fan are in!)
That pink insulation from Promaster accessories I thought to be lame at best looking at it
on-line and reading reviews but now having worked with it for several hours I can see merit.
The Thinsulate on top of it is the wall insulation.
Now I have to decide whether to build out from the ac and van frames the installer built to accommodate
more ceiling insulation or go with the same system in the walls. Hard decision.
80 percent of that pink + Thinsulate is done....tomorrow we go fishing--fishing Thinsulate through
all the ribs.
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post #3 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 02:40 AM
sasquatchmtb
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Garage
Good question. My van also came with the wood floor and I am wondering how to proceed. How much does insulating the floor help?
I read on another thread that the wood floor is glued down with alot of silicone adhesive, and took alot of work to remove.
I am considering just laying a stiff rubber pad atop the wood floor and calling it good. Removing the wood floor to put down insulation and then replacing the wood floor is a long process.
If it isnt worthwhile, then why bother?

I love mankind - it's people I can't stand. ~Charles M. Schulz
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post #4 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
ShaunB
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I'm going to go with Polyiso on top of the factory wood floor, 1/4" ply on top, finished floor on top of that. Plan is to use great stuff to adhere first two layers, finished floor will float. In areas that I wont use the cargo hooks, I will extend the cargo bolts to hold down the floor further. For those cargo bolts in the rear I will probably drill a hole through the polyiso and plywood to allow them to be used to secure cargo if needed.

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #5 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 04:27 PM
GaryBIS
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Hi,
Sorry I did not see this earlier, but I think you went the right way.

The R value of the floor the way I did it with 1 inch polyiso, 1/4 inch plywood, and vinyl floor is about R7.5.

If you go down to the 5/8 ths wood plus Vinyl with no added insulation the R value would be down to R2.2.

For our van insulation levels, and assuuming 32F outside temp, this would increase the heat loss for the whole van from 2410 BTU/hr to 3163 BTU/hr -- about a 30 % increase. Quite a bit.

If you left the 5/8 ths floor in and added 3/4 inch polyiso plus 1/4 plywood plus vinyl, the R value would be about R6.7 -- so, not much reduction from the R7.5 the way I did it.
The heat loss at 32F outside would go from 2410 to 2450 BTU/hr -- only a 2% increase in heat loss. You could even use half inch polyiso instead of 3/4 if every inch counts -- This would give you R 5.2 and increase heat loss at 32F from 2410 to 2550 BTU/hr, or 6% increase.
I guess the main message is that you probably want to get some insulation in the floor stackup, but it does not have to be the full 1 inch thick to do a pretty good job.

I guess if it were me, I'd have a hard time ripping out that nice factory wood floor to gain only a few percent on heat loss?

This page has a link to my van heat loss spreadsheet -- you can download it and play around with different combinations: http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-...n-conversions/

Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser, 2014.
SW Montana
www.BuildAGreenRV.com

Last edited by GaryBIS; 02-23-2017 at 04:33 PM. Reason: small wording change
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post #6 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 04:34 PM
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I would be hesitant to put 1/4" ply in a floor sandwich unless it's glued solid both sides and maybe not even then. Reason: it's almost impossible to get good quality ply, especially that thin. What is your final layer?

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post #7 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 06:49 PM
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It's not wood it's a plastic composit and very difficult to remove. Don't waste your time and money.

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster camping conversion. https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=43121
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post #8 of 112 Old 02-23-2017, 11:58 PM
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Removing the factory floor is not that difficult. Its adhered to the sheet metal with random blobs of adhesive. Starting in one corner I was able to lift it off in one complete piece with a bit of prying and levering. The real effort is moving the giant, awkward in and out of the van. In 6 hours time me, myself and I removed the floor, cut/fit and glued down (see: foamed) 1/2" polyiso. After letting the foam set overnight I reinstalled the factory floor and secured it in place using the existing cargo tie-downs, albeit after purchasing longer bolts to deal with added height. Since then I've covered the factory slipperiness with a rubber, garage floor sheet good to make the bird dog happy. I say do it, but I like a good challenge.
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post #9 of 112 Old 02-24-2017, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dnelsonid View Post
Removing the factory floor is not that difficult. Its adhered to the sheet metal with random blobs of adhesive. Starting in one corner I was able to lift it off in one complete piece with a bit of prying and levering. The real effort is moving the giant, awkward in and out of the van. In 6 hours time me, myself and I removed the floor, cut/fit and glued down (see: foamed) 1/2" polyiso. After letting the foam set overnight I reinstalled the factory floor and secured it in place using the existing cargo tie-downs, albeit after purchasing longer bolts to deal with added height. Since then I've covered the factory slipperiness with a rubber, garage floor sheet good to make the bird dog happy. I say do it, but I like a good challenge.
Wow, now you given me something to think about. I never thought of reusing the floor after removal. One benefit is that the factory floor could be used as a template for other components of the flooring build. I may just consider this.

Gary, thanks for the detailed explanation, I believe your build site is one of the most valuable resources on the net. I consult it almost daily, and I'm planning my solar build based on what you've done.

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #10 of 112 Old 02-27-2017, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaunB View Post
Wow, now you given me something to think about. I never thought of reusing the floor after removal. One benefit is that the factory floor could be used as a template for other components of the flooring build. I may just consider this.

Gary, thanks for the detailed explanation, I believe your build site is one of the most valuable resources on the net. I consult it almost daily, and I'm planning my solar build based on what you've done.
The template has proved handy. But not as much as not adding another project to the list.
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