3M Thinsulate SM600L vehicle insulation available - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 77 Old 11-09-2014, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
Hein
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3M Thinsulate SM600L vehicle insulation available

We are authorized by 3M to sell Thinsulate sound/thermal insulation to DIY van builders and up-fitters. We stock SM600L which is the thickest version engineered for vehicles. Below are some links and a spec. sheet. It is our view that vehicle insulation should meet these basic requirements:

+ low weight
+ no loose fibers
+ non-flammable
+ does not absorb moisture
+ no off gassing

Thinsulate meets these requirements and more. Plus it's a great selling feature when/if you eventually sell your van.

Material is 60" wide, scrim on one side. Priced by the linear foot.
Shipped via Fedex. For more info or to place an order:

+ Send a PM on this forum
+ Email heinvs ----- @ ---- impact3d --- .com
+ Call Hein during west coast business hours at 54l 49O 5O98

links:
3M SM600L Thinsulate
Material Safety Data Sheet (pdf)
Spec Sheet


Last edited by Hein; 11-09-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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post #2 of 77 Old 11-10-2014, 07:28 AM
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How much is it a foot?
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post #3 of 77 Old 11-10-2014, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
Hein
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$8.88
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post #4 of 77 Old 11-10-2014, 01:34 PM
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Any advice on vapor barriers, and where to put them relative to the insulation?
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post #5 of 77 Old 11-10-2014, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hein View Post
$8.88
You could always use 1$ bills, they would probably look nicer and you wouldn't need to cover them up. As an added bonus if you run short at the toll booth or Mickry D's you could just peel a few off!
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post #6 of 77 Old 11-10-2014, 05:15 PM
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I ordered from Hein and was pleased with the service. Their price is better than anywhere I have seen ($1.78/ft^2--I looked around for a while and even started a thread about getting someone to share with me to cut down the cost) and it does expand to about 2" thick.

A 136" high top, if you use 1 layer of insulation, requires about 30 ft of this insulation (about 145 ft^2). Some of the spacing between body panels and frame in the back are fairly thick, you could double up this area, requiring about 230 ft^2 (or 47 linear ft). So more expensive than fiberglass, but not too unreasonable given the benefits (in my opinion--I did a lot of research before settling on the thinsulate. I'd rather spend a little extra now than have to redo it later).

I've been tacking it in place with a combination of industrial velcro (the industrial adhesive can withstand the heat in direct contact with metal) and hot glue (connecting the velcro to the scrim of the insulation) until I can build the walls to hold it in. I'm planning to cap it with reflectix prior to putting in the walls. I don't know that this is the best way, but it seems like the consensus view of the builds I've looked at.
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post #7 of 77 Old 11-11-2014, 11:18 AM
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So your insulation will ultimately be attached to the interior panel, not the van wall? I am having a hard time being convinced that's not the best way.
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post #8 of 77 Old 11-11-2014, 12:49 PM
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I have been trying to figure out the best way to insulate a van for many months now...

Google this, Google that, You Tube this channel, that channel . There must be thousands and thousands of vans built or have been built with insulation in the last 50 years or so..

In the year 2014 why is there not an accepted method to do this properly?

Have I not hit the right Internet site yet?

I see fiberglass in vans, cotton cloth etc, that stuff would seem to be a negative right away due to water intrusion.

I read about spraying the entire van, then comments about off gassing, insulation crumbling after time, van walls getting buldged out in the insulation spraying process..

Any advice where to look for more ideas..

This stuffSM660L seems about the best yet?

I haven't come across something so confusing since I started to use the Internet years ago!!!!
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post #9 of 77 Old 11-11-2014, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proman View Post
Google this, Google that, You Tube this channel, that channel . There must be thousands and thousands of vans built or have been built with insulation in the last 50 years or so..
And millions (?) of homes built. Same issues. Lots of materials, principles, theories and beliefs. Nothing is perfect. Nothing is a 100% correct.

Sounds like you have done a lot of homework. So weigh the facts on materials, what you want to achieve, set your goals and go for it.

The thinsulate seems to be a pretty good material. With more money and a bit more indepedent information on it I might have tried it myself but I have more time than $$.

My choice was a dampener to reduce panel noise ( Second Skins Damplifier), then closed cell foam to add noise reduction and thermal insulation. The foam will also act as a pretty good vapor barrier for me. Is it the best vapor barrier? No, but I don't intend to use my van for a camper so I'm not overly worried about moisture. It will certainly be much better that what it has now - nothing. It will take me a bit more time to put in several layers of 1/2 inch foam but it will be cheaper for me.
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post #10 of 77 Old 11-11-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proman View Post
I have been trying to figure out the best way to insulate a van for many months now...
So have I. The issue is that most information on insulation is for houses. That is why most upfitters just use techniques used for insulating houses. It's only the talented DIYers like a few over on Sprinter Source who have really analyzed the data on available materials to determine what is best. Some focus on sound deadening/dampening, while some only care about R-value. Refrigeration trucks all use closed cell spray foam so since we only have a few inches available to insulate that probably yields the highest R-value. The problem some found was body panel warping during temperature changes.

The 3M Thinsulate SM600L seems like a great material to use but I don't believe it is the best bang for your buck since it was designed more for acoustic control in vehicles than R-value.
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