HELP! No start. Electrical Problems? 2014 Promaster 2500 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
russellnyberg
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HELP! No start. Electrical Problems? 2014 Promaster 2500

Hello everyone. I just joined this forum seeking some help with my van, a 2014 Promaster 2400 Diesel 136".

Here goes! So I've had starting issues on and off, and have usually been able to either jump off the van, charge the battery and clear the engine codes in order for it to start, but now nothing is working.(yes i took it to the dealer and they told me everything was fine) NOW, It doesn't turn over, and I get quite a few error codes. (Loss of trans pump prime, glow plugs and glow plugs circuit, oil pressure sensor) Also to note...the battery is not being charged when the van is running...the van runs fine when its driving around, but the battery will be drained dead after a long drive. I replaced the battery and had the same issue with the new one...then I had the alternator tested at auto zone...and the technician says it reads that I have a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. After doing a lot of research here and there...it sounds like a lot of people have run into similar problems and it ended up being a bad ground somewhere...So I've already replaced the main ground battery strap... Any other thought? Where are the other grounds I should be checking? Do you think a non dealer auto shop would be able to find them? I'd really like to avoid the dealership at all costs ($$$) Any help and or advice will be greatly appreciated...THANKS!
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post #2 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 07:39 PM
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 09:17 PM
RDinNHandAZ
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First: All the codes are undoubtedly a result of the low and no battery. Until you get the battery charging ignore them and reset them as they are unlikely to help you.
Second: The battery charging is controlled by the BCM I believe. That computer, the alternator itself, and the cables and grounds constitute pretty much all of the variables.

So: continue to chase the rest of the electrical system grounds as that is cheap to do yourself.
A rebuilt alternator can be as little as $255 from Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...300380&jsn=315 I’d try that next.
The BCM must be available from a salvage yard.

Keep us updated.

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post #4 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 09:37 PM
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Someone awhile back mentioned the engine to chassis ground wire was corroded.
Not sure if gas or diesel.

Last edited by phil; 05-20-2019 at 09:43 PM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 09:53 PM
phil
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Charge the battery.

Set up a cheap HF meter to read amps and put it between the neg battery terminal and the ground wire.

With the van off watch the meter after about 15 min it should be almost zero, assuming it's like the gas version.

If it ain't I'd start pulling fuses to find the draw.
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 09:54 PM
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post #7 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil View Post
At idle what's the voltage at the battery?
After a good charge I can get the battery to around 12.7v or so...but when the key is turned to the "ON" position, it drops to around 12.0v. Last week when she was still starting, it read around 12.2 or so at idle, but would slowly start to drain. Keeping in mind that the engine is running smooth and perfect.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDinNHandAZ View Post
First: All the codes are undoubtedly a result of the low and no battery. Until you get the battery charging ignore them and reset them as they are unlikely to help you.
Second: The battery charging is controlled by the BCM I believe. That computer, the alternator itself, and the cables and grounds constitute pretty much all of the variables.

So: continue to chase the rest of the electrical system grounds as that is cheap to do yourself.
A rebuilt alternator can be as little as $255 from Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...300380&jsn=315 Id try that next.
The BCM must be available from a salvage yard.

Keep us updated.
Will do. Thanks for the help. I was thinking the same about the codes...I got a salvaged alternator for $100 and I have 30 days to return it, so thats my backup. The dealership quoted me $1700 for cost and labor for a new alternator...F that. I wonder what the labor would be to double check all the grounds? I'm taking it to a mom and pop auto place tomorrow because its so close (literally 1/2 mile so I going to bust out the old truck and tow strap) and they agreed to take a look...but I wonder if they would have the knowledge to find all the grounds on a weird European diesel van..? I'll keep you guys updated.
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-25-2019, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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getting somewhere....slowly

Alright. I had this little auto shop take a look. He was SUPER awesome guy and hasn't charged me a dime yet. After a lot of trial and error, he is telling me that the engine block is not grounded appropriately like we thought...he didn't find where is was grounded, but told me what he would do is just run a new wire directly from the battery to the block...duh, that makes way more sense than an endless search for the original ground wires. He basically took his jumper cables and went directly from the battery to the block and he said the codes dissapeared...he also "straight" wired my starter and said it was working sporadically, so was probably bad as well. He told me to drill a hole and add the ground wire myself, replace the starter myself and see what happens. Again, he didnt charge me a dime. I'm going to do what he mentioned, maybe starting with a starter relay or even wacking it with a hammer...and see what happens. I'll keep yall posted.
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-25-2019, 05:33 AM
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Good advice - good luck. I think you are on the correct track now!

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