Sequence? Upper cabinets, wall, ceiling installation. - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
jstac[email protected]
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Sequence? Upper cabinets, wall, ceiling installation.

Good Morning. Kind of stuck here and looking for advice.

Wiring complete and we are ready to move forward... Just not sure how.

- We need to build and install upper cabinets.
- We need to put up weathered planking on walls (maybe with light plywood behind).
- We need to install a ceiling that will be 1/4" plywood with attached spaced 1x3s.

We stare at it a lot and talk about it a lot, but need to actually get started. Looking at all the angles and protrusions and what should be done in what sequence. Can y'all point us to some detailed step by steps or offer advice?

Lower cabinets will go in after walls. Help.
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post #2 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Good Morning. Kind of stuck here and looking for advice.

Wiring complete and we are ready to move forward... Just not sure how.

- We need to build and install upper cabinets.
- We need to put up weathered planking on walls (maybe with light plywood behind).
- We need to install a ceiling that will be 1/4" plywood with attached spaced 1x3s.

We stare at it a lot and talk about it a lot, but need to actually get started. Looking at all the angles and protrusions and what should be done in what sequence. Can y'all point us to some detailed step by steps or offer advice?

Lower cabinets will go in after walls. Help.

Al depends on your exact design. My cabinets are attached to both ceiling and walls, and thus needed to go in last.

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post #3 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 01:37 PM
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"We need to put up weathered planking on walls (maybe with light plywood behind)."

That's an awful lot of weight and wasted space. Are you sure?

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post #4 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 01:42 PM
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I installed my upper cabinets in place before any walls were up. That way I have access to the channels along the top of the walls to service the wiring. Those cabinets have no backs so the upper section of the walls is showing inside. I covered a bit of it with headliner fabric glued in but decided I preferred just the open backs. It is insulated in there of course. Doing the walls completely before installing the upper cabinets seems like a bad idea from access point of view. Removable cabinets with backs would be my second choice.
BTW I have added wires in them twice, once for the backup camera and another for lighting. I’m glad I did what I did.

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post #5 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 01:45 PM
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Typically upper cabs go in first over existing finished walls. I, however put both my uppers and base cabs in over the polyiso and then finished the walls. I put " ply in the back of the uppers afterwards and nothing in the base one other than the closet. This is only one way (my preferred way) but others can and will legitimately disagree. Do it however it works best for you is the correct answer!

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post #6 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MsNomer View Post
"We need to put up weathered planking on walls (maybe with light plywood behind)."

That's an awful lot of weight and wasted space. Are you sure?
I agree. My son is making that decision and I cannot talk him out of it. The planked / plywood ceiling seems complicated and heavy as well.
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post #7 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 03:33 PM
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Preliminary Design Ideas (PDI)

In the similar boat, read your post, took a nice nap and came up with this.
Do you know how tall your upper cabinets will be? How deep?
Suggest making a template of the wall curves for end caps and sectional dividers based on your cabinet height and depth concept.
On the drivers side, going the full length.
The plywood skin forming up the back of the cabinet will slide in from the back side for wiring changes, can be in sections to make it easier to slide in and out. Thanks for the idea RDinNHandAZ.
Face plate with door panels is built like a ladder (imagery) doors hinged on top with hold-em ups and lock-em down closed.
Cabinet bottom will be attached to the bottom of the face plate and a cleat on the back to the van.
Top of face plate will be attached to a cleat along the top to the van.
Construction concern in case of a crash, butted up against the front bulkhead to inhibit driver headache.

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Last edited by RobPromaster; 07-09-2019 at 04:08 PM.
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post #8 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobPromaster View Post
In the similar boat, read your post, took a nice nap and came up with this.
Do you know how tall your upper cabinets will be? How deep?
Suggest making a template of the wall curves for end caps and sectional dividers based on your cabinet height and depth
On the drivers side, going the full length.
The plywood skin forming up the back of the cabinet will slide in from the back side for wiring changes, can be in sections to make it easier to slide in and out. Thanks for the idea RDinNHandAZ.
Face plate with door panels is built like a ladder (imagery) doors hinged on top with hold-em ups and lock-em closed.
Cabinet bottom will be attached to the bottom of the face plate and a cleat on the back to the van.
Top of face plate will be attached to a cleat along the top to the van.
Construction concern in case of a crash, butted up against the front bulkhead to inhibit driver headache.
I hope you had a good nap and thank you! Was thinking about 12x12 usable space for upper cabinets. Suggestions?

I like the removable backs to allow access as RDinHNandAZ suggests.

Will make them face frame type cabinets as suggested. Was thinking about 1/2" baltic birch as a material for the end caps, dividers, tops and bottoms. Son wants them painted so probably do the face frames, door frames out of birch, poplar or something low grain with a 1/4 birch pane in the doors. Input appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 04:24 PM
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To make any future wire runs or changes in the walls, I'd put the wall panels/ceiling up after the cabinets. It makes removing the panels easier. I had to work with a 1.5 inch gap (all I could get without breaking the ceiling panel) when I ran a new wire. It was a bit of a pain.

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post #10 of 21 Old 07-09-2019, 05:15 PM
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The main thing is to hurry up. At some point you just have to get the job done, there's nothing you can't redo or work around if you make decisions that turnout to be suboptimal. There are so many weird things to deal with that you won't be able to reasonably account for them all before you start building. The more you can plan ahead the better but once you start adding elements to the van it becomes much easier to visualize what you need to do next.
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