Electric plan review (I know, another one!) - Page 3 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #21 of 24 Old 06-18-2019, 12:19 PM
GaryBIS
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Hi,
I don't think I have seen an Inverter/Charger with fuse panel included -- would not be a bad idea, but don't think there is one offered.


I used this power distribution panel for both the AC and DC: http://www.bestconverter.com/PD5000-...l#.XQkNLY97mM-



Wfco also makes one: http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conten...with-space.pdf


I think that going for a power distribution center (fuse box) that handles both the AC circuits and DC circuits makes sense, as it means you only have to buy one unit to do both, and its more compact than having separate AC and DC fuse/breaker boxes.



Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser, 2014.
SW Montana
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post #22 of 24 Old 06-28-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gary! Revising plans now! Definitely looking at options.

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post #23 of 24 Old 07-03-2019, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Electric schematic redone

Ive finally sat down and, using all the great input (I think) have updated my electric needs. I want to have enough charge to power air conditioning.
Give a look, and Im NOT posting on the fourth, as I hope this wont be associated with fireworks!
Thanks again!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Van electric 201906.pdf (124.6 KB, 16 views)

Why, sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast." ― Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

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post #24 of 24 Old 07-04-2019, 10:04 AM
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Hi,
Couple of thoughts...


For the 12 volt DC panel, one of the loads you have listed is a 12 volt water heater. Unless this is a very low wattage water heater, its probably going to need to be wired directly to the battery via its own breaker.

For the fuse for the whole DC panel, add up all the loads that could possibly be on at one time plus a bit more for future loads and that gives you rough fuse/breaker size -- I use 60 amps.



For the wire size and fuse size for the inverter/charger, the best thing to do is look in the manual -- they should have details on what size wires they want for various lengths. Should be at least (2800 watts/12volts * 0.9 ) = 260 amps, but, go by what the manual says.


There will be a limit to how long you can run the AC from the battery. I think your AC draws about 1200 watts, and the draw from the battery when its running will be about (1200 watts/12 volts * 0.9) =

111 amps (where 0.9 is inverter efficiency). I guess you have 400 amp-hrs of battery, and if you are OK with running them down to 20% state of charge, this gives you 320 useable amp-hrs, or just short of 3 hours of operation. Since the AC probably won't be running all the time, you would probably get more than this, but you have other loads beyond the AC, so this would cut the time some. The smaller you can make the area that you air conditioning the better.


For the shore power wire, you might want to consider using a 30 amp plug and cable. The 30 amp receptacle is available in most shore power pedistals, and if its not available, you can carry an adapter to plug the 30 amp plug into the 15/20 amp receptacle on the shore power pedestal. With the AC, you have some fairly large AC loads, so the extra capacity of the 30 amp cable might come in handy?



That Bluesea ML-ACR is quite a gadget. My first thought was that it was a whole lot of money for a battery isolator, but it does have a lot of nice features that others don't.


The best way to pick the fuse sizes for the van battery to house battery wire would be to ask Renology what they recommend for the maximum charging rate for the two batteries, and size the fuse to that or just a bit more. If you can't get a number out of them, then I think 100 amps would be in the ballpark -- that charging at 0.2C plus some margin. Maybe others with AGM batteries have a better number?


Getting close!



Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser, 2014.
SW Montana
www.BuildAGreenRV.com
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