water drainage in the engine compartment - Page 32 - Ram Promaster Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #311 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 02:30 PM
keeponvaning
Super Moderator
 
keeponvaning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 6,376
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1010 Post(s)
Thanks: 395
Thanked 1,103 Times in 905 Posts
I’m waiting for one of the "concerned " people experiencing this problem to come up with a source of stainless steel screws to solve this dilemma for everyone else. Now, that would be considered helpful!

I don’t need compliments (I’m not a well known celebrity) I only expect people to share their solutions as well as their concerns. Unfortunately, many people go on and on with their problems and then, after we try to help them or actually do help them they simply disappear never to be seen or heard from again.

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster camping conversion. https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=43121
keeponvaning is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #312 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 02:34 PM
afox
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 410
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Thanks: 69
Thanked 128 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDinNHandAZ View Post
Water is allowed to enter the air entry grill on the hood and into that air pickup in your first picture then it drains down a pipe that is inside the air box that feeds the HVAC. All that is normal. I used to see some water in the bottom of that box and worried about it but it is designed to take care of it. I wonder if what you are seeing is part of that?
Yes this is the way it is supposed to work, but there are two issues that I know of:
a. the plastic part on the hood that collects the HVAC air doesnt always line up perfectly with the part on the engine resulting in a leak at the seal between the two pieces.
b. The drain on the HVAC side only works if the vehicle is parked on level ground or sloping towards the rear of the van, if its sloping towards the front of the van the h20 just pools in the HVAC part on engine side and leaks thru the seal which was'nt meant to hold a lot of standing water. This is why I ordered the ducato hood cowl below.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Air-...AbTest=ae803_3
afox is offline  
post #313 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 02:41 PM
afox
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 410
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Thanks: 69
Thanked 128 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeponvaning View Post
Im waiting for one of the "concerned " people experiencing this problem to come up with a source of stainless steel screws to solve this dilemma for everyone else. Now, that would be considered helpful!

I dont need compliments (Im not a well known celebrity) I only expect people to share their solutions as well as their concerns. Unfortunately, many people go on and on with their problems and then, after we try to help them or actually do help them they simply disappear never to be seen or heard from again.
If rusted bolt heads were the only problem caused by the water ingress caused then this would be helpful. Rusted bolt heads don't scare me nearly as much as a water damaged ECU or other hard to diagnose electrical issues. To me, correcting the water ingress seems like a much better use of time and effort than sourcing stainless bolts for intake manifold.
afox is offline  
post #314 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 05:36 PM
RDinNHandAZ
Senior Member
 
RDinNHandAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Summer in Lakes Region of NH and Winter in the Sonoran Desert of AZ
Posts: 6,687
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1513 Post(s)
Thanks: 1,408
Thanked 1,691 Times in 1,312 Posts
Garage
That scoop would probably make the problem worse but it would give the van a new look and the price with shipping is not bad.

Now I know I have been told to stay off this thread (by afox "If you live in the sonoran desert or have a diesel van for example this may not be something you need to be concerned about.“) but like a dog on a skunk I just can’t. Us diesel owners have a bunch of electronics hanging on that middle tab you wondered what was for in your gassers. In my picture there is some gooey adhesive that leaked from the gasket when new and I haven’t cleaned it. The stain below the electronics is from a spray I used when I removed the sound cover. There is little water ingress evidence and BTW it does rain in the winter in the Sonoran Desert, and plenty here in NH this spring. Why there are not lots of electronic issues with diesels here makes you think they are really water sealed or the water does’t get there as much????
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0103.jpg (208.4 KB, 12 views)

2015 136" HT Diesel 1500 Sandstone Pearl Metallic
Campervan build see:https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=37177
You can browse my build pictures at http://tinypic.com/RDsPictures
Conversion Costs see: https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=85761
$500 solar and $700 complete Electrical: https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=71562
If you must make a mistake, make a new one each time.
RDinNHandAZ is offline  
post #315 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 09:07 PM
83Grumman
Senior Member
 
83Grumman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 49 Times in 35 Posts
Can't find part #'s for cowl push fasteners

I am ready to install my modified cowl pieces but the local dealer can't find a part number for the fasteners. He will sell me new L&R cowl pieces which he assures me will come with the red push rivet panel fasteners.

The originals do not take kindly to being removed. They need to be replaced for a secure installation.

Has anybody bought these fasteners? Does anyone know how to find the part numbers?

I have ordered these https://www.mcmaster.com/90221a226 and I know they will give me a little more squish on the rubber gasket at the cowl edge but they require adaptation to use. I wanted to try it with the stock fasteners.

Thanks

Looking for a solution
83Grumman is offline  
post #316 of 317 Old 06-10-2019, 11:51 PM
afox
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 410
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Thanks: 69
Thanked 128 Times in 96 Posts
RD, the scoop is shaped so that it will prevent water from entering via the hood vents when parked. It is only intended to prevent water from entering via the vents while parked! It will allow about the same amount of water to enter while driving but as I described earlier much of the water that enters the vents ends up on the engine since: a. the hood plastic piece does not align perfectly with the engine side HVAC piece; and b. the HVAC drain only works when the van is parked on a level surface or sloping towards the rear of the van. Also, I dont trust that plastic part that directs water from the wide vents to the HVAC intake on passenger side is watertight or will be watertight.

I have checked under the hood of the van a few hours after driving in a rainstorm and it is mostly dry. I think that any wetting while driving dries very quickly w due to the heat from the engine and the airflow from speed and the dual fans. On the other hand I have checked under the hood of the van several days after a rainstorm when the van was not driven and it was still wet with puddles anywhere they could collect. I theorize that the water that collects when the van is standing still is much more harmful than water that collects while driving. It is the cool dark high moisture environment for long periods of time that worries me the most. All vehicles with a grill get water in the engine compartment while driving in a rainstorm, they are designed for this. Commercial operators and those that drive daily probably will have less of an issue since driving dries out the engine compartment. My van only leaves my driveway about once a week, sometimes much less.

I dont think the hood cowl is 100% solution. Ive already had dealer replace the cowl with upgraded version with soft plastic where it meets the windsheild, sealed the cowl with sealant and tape to windsheild, added weatherstripping to the corners of the hood, and regularly clean out the drainage ports. The engine compartment is still wet after a rainstorm with no driving with puddles in places. My next step will be to shape an engine cover out of aluminum heat shield material. If none of this works, maybe I should sell my gasser, buy a diesel and move to the sonoran desert. Im pretty sure doing nothing is not the answer.
afox is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to afox For This Useful Post:
RDinNHandAZ (06-11-2019), travelvanvan (06-11-2019)
post #317 of 317 Old 06-11-2019, 09:42 AM
RonRev
Member
 
RonRev's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 98
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Thanks: 44
Thanked 18 Times in 12 Posts
The only problem I have now is when you close the hood the vent on the hood does not line up with the air intake. It misses by a half inch or so. Not much to do about that one. 2 funnels solved the other leaks.
RonRev is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome