If you installed insulation in the doors - what'd you do with the 'weather seal'? - Ram Promaster Forum
User Tag List

 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 Old 06-10-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
Scalawag
Member
 
Scalawag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 44
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Garage
(Thread Starter)
If you installed insulation in the doors - what'd you do with the 'weather seal'?


Following this video - if you remove the door panels as he did, when you remove that plastic protective sheet to access the interior of the door, what do you replace it with? Anything? See attached image.

I figure these seals are common in most factory car doors but I don't know how to find out best practices. I've only ever replaced the speakers in my previous vehicles, so this will be the first time I actually want to put insulation / sound deadening in.

Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: png FIT-RV-Door_Seal.png (2.41 MB, 11 views)

Prepping for 2019 full-time.
Scalawag is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 06-11-2019, 02:35 PM
akarmy
Member
 
akarmy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PNW - Seattle Area
Posts: 90
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Thanks: 86
Thanked 64 Times in 39 Posts
Garage
So I opened up one of my doors like James did in this video. He is re-using the plastic covering shown above by carefully removing the adhesive and pulling the plastic free, then just re-applying it back to the door. When I opened up mine (during a speaker upgrade project) I didn't really find a place to put insulation. I was going to stuff in some thinsulate, but don't want it at the bottom to get wet, and didn't want to mess with the window track, so in the end I just closed it back up as is and put my speakers in the hole.

2018 - Silver 136
Build site : http://van.karmy.com
akarmy is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 06-11-2019, 04:30 PM
keeponvaning
Super Moderator
 
keeponvaning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 6,237
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 989 Post(s)
Thanks: 382
Thanked 1,074 Times in 881 Posts
Good move!

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster camping conversion. https://www.promasterforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=43121
keeponvaning is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 Old 06-11-2019, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
Scalawag
Member
 
Scalawag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 44
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Garage
(Thread Starter)
Got it. Re-using it is no problem. Hein recommends putting thinsulate on the plastic rather than in the door cavity, so I'm going to try that. I have it available at any rate.

My biggest hang up right now is I have no **** idea how to wire a new tweeter + crossover in. The stock wiring has me completely stumped. Everyone who's tackled that job says "I'm stumped" and then "I figured it out" after hours of battling but no real instruction or guidance, so I'm kind of taken back with what to do.

Prepping for 2019 full-time.
Scalawag is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 09:50 AM
Wankel7
Senior Member
 
Wankel7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: S. GA
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 89 Post(s)
Thanks: 12
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalawag View Post

Following this video - if you remove the door panels as he did, when you remove that plastic protective sheet to access the interior of the door, what do you replace it with? Anything? See attached image.

I figure these seals are common in most factory car doors but I don't know how to find out best practices. I've only ever replaced the speakers in my previous vehicles, so this will be the first time I actually want to put insulation / sound deadening in.

Thanks!
As much as I wanted to stuff the whole cavity with wool.... I didn't. Wool went into the speaker cavity.

I cutout a piece of mass loaded vinyl with decoupler for the area over the plastic.

I added new tweeters. Driver crossover went behind the fuse box. With enough swearing you can fish new wires out of the door into the body.

I also abandoned the factory wiring and ran new stuff.
Wankel7 is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
Scalawag
Member
 
Scalawag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 44
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Garage
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wankel7 View Post
As much as I wanted to stuff the whole cavity with wool.... I didn't. Wool went into the speaker cavity.

I cutout a piece of mass loaded vinyl with decoupler for the area over the plastic.

I added new tweeters. Driver crossover went behind the fuse box. With enough swearing you can fish new wires out of the door into the body.

I also abandoned the factory wiring and ran new stuff.
Did you run all new wiring back to the radio? My Alpine speakers use an in-line crossover so I was thinking of re-using the factory speaker wire and running new tweeter wire. The connection would be as such:

Radio --> Factory Speaker Wire --> Alpine Speaker --> New Tweeter wire w/ In-Line Crossover --> Tweeter

I would then just ignore the old factory tweeter cable in the A-Pillar.

It seems enough of a bear just to get the wiring from the door to the A-Pillar, let alone back to the radio... Correct me of I'm wrong.

Prepping for 2019 full-time.
Scalawag is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
Scalawag
Member
 
Scalawag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 44
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Garage
(Thread Starter)
Just a follow-up for posterity to summarize my experience:
  • Installing Alpine S-S65C in the front doors.
  • Followed TheFitRV guide to taking the door apart. (Linked above.)
  • Popped the caps it the A-Pillar grab handle to unscrew them - then pry off.
  • Applied Noico to the door cavity. Didn't go crazy with this, just added some to areas that had the most resonance.
  • Added a square of Thinsulate directly behind the speaker, out of the way of the window track.
  • Applied Thinsulate to the inside of the plastic door trim using 3M 90 Spray Adhesive.
  • Removed the OEM plastic retaining clip for the Tweeter.
  • Used the foam ring that comes with the Alpine tweeters to hold the new tweeter. Gently applied more 3M 90 on top of the adhesive that came on the foam ring. Carefully positioned the foam ring + tweeter into the stock tweeter location, making sure to let the wires hang down.

This is where it gets tricky, and actually caused me a day or two to figure out.
  • The Alpine speakers have an in-line crossover, so the wires for the crossover plug into the speaker and need to connect to the wires for the tweeter.
  • Remove the kick panel that tucks into the weather stripping where the dash meets the floor. (3 screws)
  • Drill a 3/8" hole into the metal of the van on the interior, trying to get as close to the rubber boot on the door as possible without trying to drill on a curve. Remove the door boot from the interior side.
  • Run a 12-15" or so piece of stiff but bendy wire through your drilled hole out into the now open door boot hole. You may have to stick your fingers in there to grab the wire as it starts to fish through.
  • Pull this wire through with enough slack to work with. Bend a little hook on the end and secure the crossover wires to it.
  • Gently pull those wires from the speaker cavity, through the boot, out the hole you drilled.
  • Voila! Now you have the crossover wires inside the van and the tweeter wires can plug right in.
  • The wire will follow the trim / weather stripping, and the kick panel will cover up the hole + any extra wire length.
  • Replacing the A pillar is a bit of a chore. It nests down much further toward the windshield than you think and it DOES feel like you are manhandling it while doing so. Ultimately with a bit of patience, my wife had that a-ha moment of it clicking securely back into place, and all is well. Don't get pissed off at it.
  • Used Hein's 5" adapter to mount the speakers.
  • Replace the weather seal referenced in the OP. If you kept it in a safe place, that adhesive will stick right back on and you should have zero issues re-using it.

This was a bit of a bruteish solution, but the hole was clean and the wires fished through easy enough. I re-used the stock speaker wire and just ran that new wire from the tweeter --> crossover --> speaker. Once installed and buttoned back up, the van looks 100% stock.

I have to do the other side tomorrow, install my new head unit, and underseat powered sub, but just testing that single speaker - it already sounds a lot better than expected!

Prepping for 2019 full-time.
Scalawag is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Scalawag For This Useful Post:
Hein (06-12-2019)
post #8 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 11:11 PM
Hein
Senior Member
 
Hein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: PacNW
Posts: 374
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Thanks: 59
Thanked 153 Times in 110 Posts
Thinsulate(TM) on the back of the door panels is a great way to reduce noise, make speakers sound better and increase thermal efficiency. Below is a link to a video of how I did it on our Transit. I haven't upgraded the speakers in our Promaster doors but will use the same strategy.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

https://youtu.be/g_igBQnMINI
Hein is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 06-13-2019, 10:02 AM
JohnnyRambles
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Rambling
Posts: 217
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Thanks: 18
Thanked 64 Times in 45 Posts
Reusing the stock plastic sheeting is fairly easy, just use a quality packing tape to secure any areas that need repair. I used Fatmat and glued Thinsulate in the doors, but ended up having to remove some of the Thinsulate as it was periodically interfering with the window mechanism. The front doors were definitely one of the most challenging areas to insulate, but it's worth it IMO. I've received several comments about how quiet the interior of the van is, and that's saying something as it's basically a giant tin box.

2015 159" Gas Promaster (RV Build in Progress)

Last edited by JohnnyRambles; 06-13-2019 at 10:04 AM.
JohnnyRambles is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome