Should I remove factory wood floor to insulate? - Page 11 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #101 of 110 Old 10-31-2018, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
ShaunB
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Glad to hear it worked out so well JansVans. I think the key to success is to try to do this in a warm environment, the globs of glue will be a little more pliable. Enjoy the rest (start) of the build!
Shaun

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #102 of 110 Old 04-23-2019, 09:59 AM
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I'm planning to pull up my factory floor today (Ive got a nice long prybar - wish me luck!) and place a 1/4" closed cell foam underlayment as thermal break. I'm over 6'3" tall so I didn't want to use anything very thick. Seems like there have been very different experiences in removing the floors. Some have found it very challenging and others not such a big deal. I wonder if the adhesive used in the factory was different over the different years of manufacture...?

I have two questions:
Once the floor is reused, do the tie down fasteners do a sufficient job in holding the floor down or is something else required? With dual slider doors, I'll be needing to fasten my cabinets to the floors in the area behind the driver's seat.

Does anyone put Noico /Dynamat sound/vibration deadening material directly to the floor of the van? I'm thinking about placing some Noico butyl strips in the lower channels of the floor.

"There was nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under the stars. ~Jack Kerouac

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post #103 of 110 Old 04-23-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BeWhereUR View Post
I'm planning to pull up my factory floor today (Ive got a nice long prybar - wish me luck!) and place a 1/4" closed cell foam underlayment as thermal break. I'm over 6'3" tall so I didn't want to use anything very thick. Seems like there have been very different experiences in removing the floors. Some have found it very challenging and others not such a big deal. I wonder if the adhesive used in the factory was different over the different years of manufacture...?

I have two questions:
Once the floor is reused, do the tie down fasteners do a sufficient job in holding the floor down or is something else required? With dual slider doors, I'll be needing to fasten my cabinets to the floors in the area behind the driver's seat.

Does anyone put Noico /Dynamat sound/vibration deadening material directly to the floor of the van? I'm thinking about placing some Noico butyl strips in the lower channels of the floor.
This job will be easier the warmer the ambient temperature is. I did mine in winter (Canada) and the adhesive was very stiff. Regarding adhering it to the floor, I would reuse the tie downs with longer bolts and spacers between the floor and the plastic cups. I used PVC pipe as a spacer, just cut to the appropriate length. I didn't use any Noico on the floor. It won't hurt but I'm not sure that with polyiso and finished floor it will make a difference. I did completely cover my wheel well covers with Noico and then thinsulate. After two years of living with my van I am very happy I re-used the factory floor and happy that it's my finished floor. Very durable and hard wearing.

Shaun

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #104 of 110 Old 04-23-2019, 04:40 PM
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It has not become popular but I cut the floor around the cabinet bases so they cannot slide forward in a crash. The floor even if a floating sheet, cannot move forward due to the bulkhead. The rest of the attachment is to hold the cabinets down. I believe it is much safer than a few screws or bolts.

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post #105 of 110 Old 04-24-2019, 12:28 PM
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Removed the floor yesterday. Took about 50 minutes. I used a long prybar to get it started in the back and then took 3 2x4s and gradually used a mallet to slide them under the floor and break the glue bonds. I suggest you be patient with the process. Hammer the wood about 4--6 more inches in and then wait 45 seconds or so for the glue to separate on it's own. Then hammer another 4-6" and wait again.

I ended up with a bunch of wood separation, but most of that was in the beginning parts where I was overzealous with my upward prying. No effect on the visible surface though.

I simply primed the bottom where the wood separated.

Removing the polyurethane glue is a serious pain though. I heated the van well and worked up a good sweat with pliers. I found a vice grip to be helpful and a flat razor to sometimes loosen edges. I'll finish the removal shortly but anticipate that to be a two hour job in total to remove the adhesive.

I'll of course use the floor as a template to cut the closed cell foam I'll put under the floor once I reinstall.

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post #106 of 110 Old 04-24-2019, 05:06 PM
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IF.....i say IF going to remove floor maybe a roofers
shingle get her up would work

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post #107 of 110 Old 04-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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if anyone would upon receiving "the getter upper" I would ship in continental U.S. if u would remit my shipping charges and if u do the same to the next DIY vanagones that wanted to use it....

I received it @ end of estate auction when they got to the hand tools and the lot had to be added items for somebody to bid....probably only wanted one item
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post #108 of 110 Old 04-25-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeWhereUR View Post
Removed the floor yesterday. Took about 50 minutes. I used a long prybar to get it started in the back and then took 3 2x4s and gradually used a mallet to slide them under the floor and break the glue bonds. I suggest you be patient with the process. Hammer the wood about 4--6 more inches in and then wait 45 seconds or so for the glue to separate on it's own. Then hammer another 4-6" and wait again.

I ended up with a bunch of wood separation, but most of that was in the beginning parts where I was overzealous with my upward prying. No effect on the visible surface though.

I simply primed the bottom where the wood separated.

Removing the polyurethane glue is a serious pain though. I heated the van well and worked up a good sweat with pliers. I found a vice grip to be helpful and a flat razor to sometimes loosen edges. I'll finish the removal shortly but anticipate that to be a two hour job in total to remove the adhesive.

I'll of course use the floor as a template to cut the closed cell foam I'll put under the floor once I reinstall.
I simply removed the largest pieces of adhesive from the floor, and just "great stuffed" the polyiso overtop. I don't think it's work trying to remove much if any of the adhesive from either van floor or the underside of the factory floor.

Sherpa is a 2016 3500 Ext. Diesel, Black - Our off grid cycling adventure vehicle. Also my Daily Driver. Follow my build and our adventures on https://www.instagram.com/sherpathevan/
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post #109 of 110 Old 04-30-2019, 10:09 AM
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I have the factory floor, also, and was thinking about putting down the 5/8” interlocking foam tiles on top. Like these: https://www.greatmats.com/mats/foam-...mats.php#specs
Probably not the fake wood grain ones like Casey from the BabeBus used. Have any of you tried these? Seems like you would get some insulation, they are comfortable in bare feet, cheep and easy to install, also easy to remove.
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post #110 of 110 Old 04-30-2019, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959Mason View Post
I have the factory floor, also, and was thinking about putting down the 5/8” interlocking foam tiles on top. Like these: https://www.greatmats.com/mats/foam-...mats.php#specs
Probably not the fake wood grain ones like Casey from the BabeBus used. Have any of you tried these? Seems like you would get some insulation, they are comfortable in bare feet, cheep and easy to install, also easy to remove.
I use them, just be aware that they expand when warm.
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