Electrical component layout diagram - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-05-2019, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical component layout diagram

Good Afternoon.

We are converting a 2017 Promaster 2500 159". Trying to come up with a plan for mounting and connecting electrical components. We would appreciate comments on out plan. Can everything just be connected to a pair of 3/8 bus bars with proper cable gauges?

We are putting the inverter and AC breakers in one of the seats. The rest we will try to mount on plywood mounted to the sidewall under elevated platform bed.

Please take a look at the attached diagram and let me know if this works electrically. Any suggestions for improvement or pointing out flaws appreciated.

Thanks. "We" are my son and I" He plans to full time it fishing and filming the USA. Nice work if you can get it!
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-05-2019, 05:32 PM
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Hi,
There are a lot of wiring diagrams in past posts along with good comments and suggestions about them. I'd have a look through some of those.


Just on a top level, your diagram is missing some important fuses. Also, I don't see a connection to either shore power or the van for charging the battery -- that is, your only source of power to charge the battery is solar?



This page has the electrical system for my van as one place to look at: https://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-co...cal-and-solar/


Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser, 2014.
SW Montana
www.BuildAGreenRV.com
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Gary.

-I neglected to add shore power to the diagram, but we will include it.
-Yes, we will also add a battery isolator at some point.
-I missed the ground connection to the vehicle.

Thanks for the link to your build. I like how you were able to keep it compact as well a take the time to go through each component. It helps as do some of the other post that I reviewed as you suggested. I'll revise my diagram and post it again if you would not mind giving it another look.

I also thought about adding some cutoff switches. Your thoughts where these might be useful?

Enjoy your day.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Good Afternoon.

I appreciate the feedback on my initial post. I also appreciate the previous posts that offered a lot of advice on similar system.

I have made several modifications to our electrical system - diagram attached.

Please let me know if anyone has any feedback. I've added fuses, shore power and wire gauges.

Feedback on any mistakes, alternate fuse and wire gauge would be appreciated. i don't want to skimp, but I also do not want over engineer by a lot.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 05:33 PM
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Doesn't the 10 amp fuse limit the power from the 4 solar panels?
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil View Post
Doesn't the 10 amp fuse limit the power from the 4 solar panels?

I don't think so. 4 panels in series gets about 5.25 A at 88 Volt. I think that controller is rated up to 100VDC at 20A. So the fuse should not be a problem.

2017 159" Gas High top with dual sliders.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomD View Post
I don't think so. 4 panels in series gets about 5.25 A at 88 Volt. I think that controller is rated up to 100VDC at 20A. So the fuse should not be a problem.
Completely missed "in series"
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-06-2019, 10:42 PM
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Hi,
Looks good.


Couple of comments:


I guess the Inverter/Charger is 2000 watts, so at full power, it will probably draw about (2000 watts)/ (12 volts)(0.9) = 185 amps. So, the 150 amp fuses and the AWG 4 are (I think) low. The BlueSea Circuit Wizard is good for getting gages right (but, be sure to fill in all the inputs). Be sure to follow the inverter manual for wire gages and the details of how to hook it up to be sure that the Inverter/Charger can take care of bonding of the neutral to ground correctly.

2000 watts is a lot of inverter, so you might choose to use it at less than its full capacity and be able to use the smaller fuses and wires.
Try to keep the 12 volt wire run from housebattery to inverter as short as possible.



The fuse in the inverter line should be positioned as close to the positive bus as possible.



Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser, 2014.
SW Montana
www.BuildAGreenRV.com
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-07-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gary!

For the AC power that we will need, I agree that the Inverter is bit of overkill.

From the Aims manual, I am told to properly ground the inverter with 8AWG or better and the inverter will automatically bond the neutral to ground as needed as well as unbind when plugged into shore power. I can disable automatic bonding if needed, but I don't see why I would do that.

I'll update the plan and diagram and begin the installation and wiring.
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