Amperage on Battery Isolator - Page 9 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #81 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 08:29 AM
keeponvaning
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Originally Posted by RDinNHandAZ View Post
Hey I solved it this way. 1. My batteries are charged with my MPPT Tracer solar controller and 200 watts of Renogy panels. 2. My batteries are two 200+amp hour 6 volt golf cart batteries FLA in series and they see nowhere near the abuse as in a Golf cart. 3. They cost $87 each so together they cost about what a new starter battery cost. I almost NEVER let the van charge the coach batteries. Now if you don’t think solar is a good thing remember the solar and the MPPT charger is hardly more than a new OEM alternator and it will trickle charge your batteries in shade or under your carport avoiding having to have another box from an internet salesman who’s claims seem questionable at best. Why trust him and not trust the 20 years of solar use and the 50 years (or more) of RV technology?
RD makes a lot of sense here, as usual (other than his micro-phobia). Listen up newbies!

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster fully converted for camping.
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post #82 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 09:44 AM
Winston
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Originally Posted by Wowbagger View Post
If you have a rig with 800Ah of battery . . .

Had to smile at the thought of 800AH of lead-acid. In our CaRV (VW Jetta), we had to find some heavy duty springs to support our comparatively smaller 160lb 245AH AGM . . .

We appreciate your detailed discussion of lead-acid technology but, as many vehicles use AGM starter batteries, we're still searching for an explanation why these AGMs can be single-stage charged (by the alternator) at 14+ volts but their deep-cycle brothers, can't . . . ?

2016 159" HT (Standard Length) Gas
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post #83 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 11:31 AM
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Both starter and deep cycle house batteries can be charged by single stage dumb chargers at 14+ volts. I have been dealing with batteries (flooded, gel and later AGM) and charging systems since the late 1950s, long before smart chargers. There are applications successfully running today with old style ferro resonant chargers that maintain high voltage and simply let the battery internal resistance taper the current down. Ferro resonant chargers are still being manufactured and are highly sought after by many commercial folks and fisherman who seek low cost, super reliability in a harsh environment, and longevity as they last decades.

In my opinion "smart chargers" are an industry invention to increase sales/profits. They are a solution looking for a problem that does not exist. Most folks on this forum are over thinking the charging issue and are obsessed by it. What has worked from 1890 (original very short range electric cars) still works today!
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post #84 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 05:39 PM
Charger7022
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Originally Posted by RDinNHandAZ View Post
Hey I solved it this way. 1. My batteries are charged with my MPPT Tracer solar controller and 200 watts of Renogy panels. 2. My batteries are two 200+amp hour 6 volt golf cart batteries FLA in series and they see nowhere near the abuse as in a Golf cart. 3. They cost $87 each so together they cost about what a new starter battery cost. I almost NEVER let the van charge the coach batteries. Now if you don’t think solar is a good thing remember the solar and the MPPT charger is hardly more than a new OEM alternator and it will trickle charge your batteries in shade or under your carport avoiding having to have another box from an internet salesman who’s claims seem questionable at best. Why trust him and not trust the 20 years of solar use and the 50 years (or more) of RV technology?

So let me ask you this RD how much was your entire 200 watt solar system? I'm in no way knocking solar I'm sure its great for some and until I found this dc/dc charger that also has a built in MPPT solar charger I was not even considering solar but I will get at least one 100 watt panel now but don't want anything to do with permanently mounted panels on my roof.


Now you say "avoiding having to have another box. This box avoids that very thing for a newbie like myself and others on here. I have one box that does 3 things. Solar and alternator charge and its a battery isolator all in one package. So you can argue all you want that needing a 3 stage charger is unnecessary and for a newbie you can look at it this way for $260 I get a solar charger controller an alternator charger and a battery isolator and oh yeah it does that 3 stage charging that makes some of us feel all warm and fuzzy.


Again to each there own I'm just sharing what I have and it seems its pretty new to the market because I think I only seen one other guy on here that have a dc/dc charger in their van other than me. I'm not a pro at all when it comes to batteries and I understand what you are saying but for me I just feel better having the 3 stage charger profile made for my AGM batteries.

2016, 159" high top, Gas, converted to a camper for 4
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post #85 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 05:58 PM
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Hey, if you want it - GET IT!

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster fully converted for camping.
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post #86 of 86 Old 03-30-2017, 06:17 PM
RDinNHandAZ
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In my build thread I have all my costs. $505 w 2- 100 watt panels, all wiring, mounting hardware, waterproof glands, tracer controller, wire to battery set, fusing, and switches. I know it's more than your one-box-does-all and I am happy to have you try this thing out. My caution was this thing is unproven, unnecessary, and overhyped. That being said it may prove to be a better solution and I hope you report your short term and long term experience. By the time you buy one 100 watt panel and fuse and wire this up, you will have more in 100 watts than I do in 200. Its your money and your experiment. As KOV says go for it!

2015 136" HT Diesel Sandstone Metallic Born on 6/12/2015 Campervan build see: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=37177
Have Leatherman, Will Travel
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